C4 Window (glass) install tips....
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 7,441
Likes: 421
From: Ventura County, CA
St. Jude Donor '05 thru '24
C4 Window (glass) install tips....
I received my window yesterday that needs to go on the driver side of my Vette. Im looking for any tips you might personally have from going through such and install. Special tools? Doesnt look like it
The last time my window was busted out I paid $80 for the install with tint to macth. The shop aint available to do it till Monday and honestly I would wanna tackle it myself. Is it worth it? My door panel on that side is shot ayways due to some homies that busted out my last window. Soooooo it needs to be replaced and this exp will help with that future install of that panel I guess
The last time my window was busted out I paid $80 for the install with tint to macth. The shop aint available to do it till Monday and honestly I would wanna tackle it myself. Is it worth it? My door panel on that side is shot ayways due to some homies that busted out my last window. Soooooo it needs to be replaced and this exp will help with that future install of that panel I guess
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 798
Likes: 116
From: OAKLEY CA
door glass replacement
The hard part of this job is removing the old window due to the "window stop", a nylon cone shaped 1 inch piece at the front bottom of the window.The window won't come out til it's off. If your window is shattered, your job is half done. The new window may or may not have this piece attached. It's a PITA to get off inside the door because the back part is put on with loctite at the factory, and just turns instead of loosening. There is a "window stop tool" that fits in the holes on the back. Your's is probably laying on the bottom of the inside of the door in two inches of broken glass. You need a good shop vacuum to get it out.
After you remove the door panel, run the window up til you can see the three bolts along the bottom that attach it to the frame. take out what remains, and slide in your new window til you can see where the window stop attaches. I just duct taped the backing plate to the window, and it tightened up just fine, don't forget the rubber washer that goes against the window. The other three attachments points are easy to reach. Slide the window around until the bolts sit in the original location (the frame will have marks from being tightened). and it should line up like the old one, mine did. Hope this helps. Oh BTW, for those whose window is not broken, just scratched like mine, the window stop cone thing can be broken off (bolt breaks) by bending it back and forth 5 or ten times with a socket just big enough to slide over it and long
extention. I half expected the window to break and make a mess, but mine didn't.
After you remove the door panel, run the window up til you can see the three bolts along the bottom that attach it to the frame. take out what remains, and slide in your new window til you can see where the window stop attaches. I just duct taped the backing plate to the window, and it tightened up just fine, don't forget the rubber washer that goes against the window. The other three attachments points are easy to reach. Slide the window around until the bolts sit in the original location (the frame will have marks from being tightened). and it should line up like the old one, mine did. Hope this helps. Oh BTW, for those whose window is not broken, just scratched like mine, the window stop cone thing can be broken off (bolt breaks) by bending it back and forth 5 or ten times with a socket just big enough to slide over it and long
extention. I half expected the window to break and make a mess, but mine didn't.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 7,441
Likes: 421
From: Ventura County, CA
St. Jude Donor '05 thru '24
Originally Posted by ED HEISER
The hard part of this job is removing the old window due to the "window stop", a nylon cone shaped 1 inch piece at the front bottom of the window.The window won't come out til it's off. If your window is shattered, your job is half done. The new window may or may not have this piece attached. It's a PITA to get off inside the door because the back part is put on with loctite at the factory, and just turns instead of loosening. There is a "window stop tool" that fits in the holes on the back. Your's is probably laying on the bottom of the inside of the door in two inches of broken glass. You need a good shop vacuum to get it out.
After you remove the door panel, run the window up til you can see the three bolts along the bottom that attach it to the frame. take out what remains, and slide in your new window til you can see where the window stop attaches. I just duct taped the backing plate to the window, and it tightened up just fine, don't forget the rubber washer that goes against the window. The other three attachments points are easy to reach. Slide the window around until the bolts sit in the original location (the frame will have marks from being tightened). and it should line up like the old one, mine did. Hope this helps. Oh BTW, for those whose window is not broken, just scratched like mine, the window stop cone thing can be broken off (bolt breaks) by bending it back and forth 5 or ten times with a socket just big enough to slide over it and long
extention. I half expected the window to break and make a mess, but mine didn't.
After you remove the door panel, run the window up til you can see the three bolts along the bottom that attach it to the frame. take out what remains, and slide in your new window til you can see where the window stop attaches. I just duct taped the backing plate to the window, and it tightened up just fine, don't forget the rubber washer that goes against the window. The other three attachments points are easy to reach. Slide the window around until the bolts sit in the original location (the frame will have marks from being tightened). and it should line up like the old one, mine did. Hope this helps. Oh BTW, for those whose window is not broken, just scratched like mine, the window stop cone thing can be broken off (bolt breaks) by bending it back and forth 5 or ten times with a socket just big enough to slide over it and long
extention. I half expected the window to break and make a mess, but mine didn't.
Beautiful man! Im about to go tackle this and save 80-120 bucks
I wish I had my digital camera as I could take pics of the procedure, sold it for gas
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 7,441
Likes: 421
From: Ventura County, CA
St. Jude Donor '05 thru '24
I just came back in and Im done, wasnt hard as I thought. That dang door panel is falling apart on me though. The window is on there and solid just need to get it tinted and I'll probably do that tomorrow morning. The window stopper was arealdy on the glass I received from MrRenoman so its was just a matter of sliding it in there.
Thanks for the advice.
Thanks for the advice.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 7,441
Likes: 421
From: Ventura County, CA
St. Jude Donor '05 thru '24
Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Wanna come reattach my rods to the power locks on both C4's? Just leave your axe at home, **** 
What ya doing this wekend then? I have to go to LA Sunday but tomorrow Im free
give me a call tonight.Now I need to get this window tinted in the morning
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,931
Likes: 3
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Originally Posted by ED HEISER
The hard part of this job is removing the old window due to the "window stop", a nylon cone shaped 1 inch piece at the front bottom of the window.The window won't come out til it's off. If your window is shattered, your job is half done. The new window may or may not have this piece attached. It's a PITA to get off inside the door because the back part is put on with loctite at the factory, and just turns instead of loosening. There is a "window stop tool" that fits in the holes on the back. Your's is probably laying on the bottom of the inside of the door in two inches of broken glass. You need a good shop vacuum to get it out.
After you remove the door panel, run the window up til you can see the three bolts along the bottom that attach it to the frame. take out what remains, and slide in your new window til you can see where the window stop attaches. I just duct taped the backing plate to the window, and it tightened up just fine, don't forget the rubber washer that goes against the window. The other three attachments points are easy to reach. Slide the window around until the bolts sit in the original location (the frame will have marks from being tightened). and it should line up like the old one, mine did. Hope this helps. Oh BTW, for those whose window is not broken, just scratched like mine, the window stop cone thing can be broken off (bolt breaks) by bending it back and forth 5 or ten times with a socket just big enough to slide over it and long
extention. I half expected the window to break and make a mess, but mine didn't.
After you remove the door panel, run the window up til you can see the three bolts along the bottom that attach it to the frame. take out what remains, and slide in your new window til you can see where the window stop attaches. I just duct taped the backing plate to the window, and it tightened up just fine, don't forget the rubber washer that goes against the window. The other three attachments points are easy to reach. Slide the window around until the bolts sit in the original location (the frame will have marks from being tightened). and it should line up like the old one, mine did. Hope this helps. Oh BTW, for those whose window is not broken, just scratched like mine, the window stop cone thing can be broken off (bolt breaks) by bending it back and forth 5 or ten times with a socket just big enough to slide over it and long
extention. I half expected the window to break and make a mess, but mine didn't.
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