C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Car stalls when @ idle

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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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Default Car stalls when @ idle

Need help troubleshooting my problem I don't know where to start on this one.
The car runs great but when at temp and she is warmed up, under load at a stop light sometimes it stalls. she starts right up without a problem.
I'm not throwing any codes. Temp is good(200*),oil temp is good(210*)
I did notice the oil pressure was a bit low and the idle drops like it want to stall (about 700rpm then dips)
if I put it in neutral it still does the same but not low enough to stall.
I don't know what to check first and do't want to troubleshoot blindly and really mess things up.
Please help.


'90 L98 automatic

Last edited by eddieL98; Apr 18, 2006 at 09:34 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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I see that you are running headers. I had the same problem with my '93 and had to switch to heated O2 sensors. Cleared up my "dying at the stoplight" problem.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 11:03 PM
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sounds like either your TPS or your IAC valve. if you do a search, i know there is info here about how to check it. it's easy to do, all you need is a voltmeter.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 10:42 AM
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Have you replaced your PCV valve and inspected the hose lately?
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by eddieL98
Need help troubleshooting my problem I don't know where to start on this one.

I don't know what to check first and do't want to troubleshoot blindly and really mess things up.
Please help.


'90 L98 automatic
There are some good suggestions, above. The first thing *I* would do is check for and correct any codes that may be set.


Originally Posted by Lichen
I see that you are running headers. I had the same problem with my '93 and had to switch to heated O2 sensors. Cleared up my "dying at the stoplight" problem.
If you don't have a heated O2, check to be sure the ECM doesn't drop out of closed loop, before it stalls.


Originally Posted by SonnyinVA
sounds like either your TPS or your IAC valve. if you do a search, i know there is info here about how to check it. it's easy to do, all you need is a voltmeter.
Before you start making adjustments, it would pay to pull your IAC valve out and check both it and the IAC passages in the TB to be sure they are clean and carbon free. THEN, you can make your minimum air adjustment and set your TPS. After playing with the IAC, there is a resetting procedure, but the IAC has no adjustment.


Originally Posted by eddieL98
do't want to troubleshoot blindly and really mess things up.
While it is possible to have an illogical, poorly laid out plan for trouble shooting, no faults that you find and correct are going to make things worse. Get your FSM out, dive in, and get 'er fixed.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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I've had this happen on a couple of cars. I found that cleaning the inside of the throttle body has corrected the problem. It always happened while slowing down for a turn or or stop. I remove the air intake horn/hose to the throttle body, open the butterfly valve, and spray some fuel injector cleaner into it. I also have a long pair of forcepts that I put a piece of lint free cloth soaked in cleaner on and then slowly and carefully swab the inside of the trottle body. When it comes out clean I'm done because it will be nasty when you start. I believe what this accomplishes is cleaning the sensors (on some cars it's called an "idle speed motor" used to keep your idle speed up when you are off the gas. Good luck.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 01:36 PM
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with CFI. He seems to be on the right track. Everything needs to be planned out as which he mentions cant make it worse but CAN delay your fixing time and cost MORE money than is nessecary. Good luck
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