C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 08:49 PM
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Default Please Help this Mechanic

I'm the original owner of a 1989 Corvette with 35 k on the odometer. It
went in the shop because of rough running while cold and once warmed up it smoothed out. In the shop it received a valve job..timing chain
the master computer replaced...various sensors replaced / fuel injectors cleaned and replaced fuel pump checked filter replaced
ground lugs cleaned etc etc... Okay I've taken my loss
and paid this mechanic for his servicesand the car is now again in my possession. It's worse than
ever...As of this revision to the post 4.23 06..when cold the car runs somewhat okay..it's rough...but when it gets up to operating temperature 215...it sounds as if its going to come apart internally..
It rattles and rocks like I've never heard before..Could there be something atached to the clutch that has come loose...and thus
causing the engine to become out of balance.. Help..Suggestions
on getting a good Corvette Mechanic in So Cal south bay?

Last edited by Corbird; Apr 23, 2006 at 03:18 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 08:55 PM
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Any codes?
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 08:59 PM
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a sinking lifter???
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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If it is an internal engine noise, you could start disconnecting 1 spark plug wire at a time. This will take some of the load off each piston. It may help you figure out which cylinder is out of whack. Then you could further diagnose.
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
Any codes?
No codes
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 09:09 PM
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the mechanic seems to think the rear cylinders on right side
but when he had the motor down he looked at piston walls to
see if there was any unusual marks...none to be found
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
a sinking lifter???
I would hope that when he had the top end off he would have
checked the valve lifters..
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 09:37 PM
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I hope your mechanic knows how to use a mechanics stethoscope( hope I spelled that right), or can take a piece of hose and locate where the noise is comming from specifically!
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 11:08 PM
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Wrist pin is a possibility. Very rare, but consistent with what you describe.
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 12:33 AM
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Another clue is how many knock sounds per revolution. If two, then crank bearing or wrist pin has excess clearance. If one, then valve train components are suspect.
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 02:02 AM
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I'd forget helping this mechanic and cut your losses. They sure have thrown a ton of parts and labor at a car with low mileage and a minor driveability problem. Me-thinks this guy is an incompetent boob, a scoundrel or both.
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 03:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Corbird
I'm the original owner of a 1989 Corvette with 35 k on the odometer. It went in the shop because of rough running while cold and once warmed up it smoothed out. In the shop it received a valve job..timing chain
the master computer replaced...various sensors replaced / fuel injectors cleaned and replaced fuel pump checked filter replaced
ground lugs cleaned etc etc....Now I'm being told that the opposite happens and when it gets good and warm 30 to 40 minutes of normal running and driving a strange knock start from inside the right handside of the engine
then the engine starts running really rough. they put
it on the rack and it's not coming from like the crankshaft.
It sounds to me like your "mechanic" did not use a scan tool properly and diagnose the problem, but just used a parts shotgun approach with you paying for the shot.

Most of the injector specialists recomment NOT cleaning the 89 Multec injectors due to their poor build quality to begin with. Your "mechanic" took a low mileage car that worked ok when warm and after replacing a LOT of parts which included a LOT of LABOR charges you still have a problem.

I'd try to find someone who has a quality scan tool to scan the ECM and see what is going on with all the relevant sensors at the time the problems appear. The root cause could be anything, but most mechanical problems don't usually wait 30-40 minutes to show up. Electrical issues that are heat dependent often do. It could be something mechanical that requires the oil to be thin enough or the coolant to be warm enough to show up. More likely it is an injector, or one of the replaced sensors that is heat affected due to incorrect installation.
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike_88Z51

It sounds to me like your "mechanic" did not use a scan tool properly and diagnose the problem, but just used a parts shotgun approach with you paying for the shot.

Most of the injector specialists recomment NOT cleaning the 89 Multec injectors due to their poor build quality to begin with. Your "mechanic" took a low mileage car that worked ok when warm and after replacing a LOT of parts which included a LOT of LABOR charges you still have a problem.

I'd try to find someone who has a quality scan tool to scan the ECM and see what is going on with all the relevant sensors at the time the problems appear. The root cause could be anything, but most mechanical problems don't usually wait 30-40 minutes to show up. Electrical issues that are heat dependent often do. It could be something mechanical that requires the oil to be thin enough or the coolant to be warm enough to show up. More likely it is an injector, or one of the replaced sensors that is heat affected due to incorrect installation.
with MIke, These are all pretty much guesses. Without actually being there to hear it and know where its coming from is anyones guess. A good mechanic would be able to pinpoint this with the car in front of him.

Last edited by RRT vette; Apr 22, 2006 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 10:56 AM
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It sounds like a wrist pin slap. I would change oil & mechanics. Then see that everything works better
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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I don't think it's rod,or main bearings, or wrist pin-simply because of the way it runs, I've had problems with those components-made a hellava lot of noise, but didn't really affect how the motor ran-unless it blew . It could be a lifter-but if it weren't there before your mechanic worked on it-I'd lean toward another problem-I'd sure wonder about valve lash.
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Corbird
This mechanic has called in some of the top chevy mechanics
in the area...
Why does this remind me of the scene near the end of "RAIDERS of the LOST ARK" when the guy says "TOP MEN!"?
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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Exactly-and if I were the owner of the car-I'd sure wanna be there to meet the" TOP MEN". I have this poor feeling about the "mechanic" that did the work in the first place.
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 12:29 PM
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in over 40 years of playing with sbc's, i have seen 2 that started to make a substantial ''knock'' after running for more than 30 minutes...both were 100k+ miles with (discovered when heads were pulled) extreme carbon build-up on piston top....removal of carbon cured both (do this only with solvent--do NOT scrape)...theory is that connecting rods expanded with heat soak and deck clearance went negative....your low mileage does not fit this scenario, but if the new head gaskets were thinner than old ones, its a distant possibile cause (but we're really distant here, reaching way down)

like others, i am very uncomfortable with the repairs which were deemed ''necessary'' for such a low mileage vehicle,tho
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Corbird
I'm the original owner of a 1989 Corvette with 35 k on the odometer. It
went in the shop because of rough running while cold and once warmed up it smoothed out. In the shop it received a valve job..timing chain
the master computer replaced...various sensors replaced / fuel injectors cleaned and replaced fuel pump checked filter replaced
ground lugs cleaned etc etc....
Just curious, have you asked this parts-changing bandit what was his reason was for doing things such as a valve job, timing set replacement, ECM replacement, multiple sensors, etc. on a low-mileage car with such a minor problem? Have you paid them yet? I think for the size of what this bill is going to be, I'd have an attorney contact them re/ their business practices and only pay for what they can prove actually fixed the original problem. Then insist on having whatever it is that they've now screwed up, fixed at a competent shop and that they foot the bill for that! It never ceases to amaze me the BS some people will put up with from some shops.
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
Just curious, have you asked this parts-changing bandit what was his reason was for doing things such as a valve job, timing set replacement, ECM replacement, multiple sensors, etc. on a low-mileage car with such a minor problem?

What were the wet and dry compression test readings or the cylinder leakage test results BEFORE he decided to do a valve job?

Noises CAN be difficult to pin down, but if "some of the top chevy mechanics in the area... say they've never heard anything like this before..", you aren't going to get anything from the forum, where we can't hear it, is maybe, a lucky guess.

Based on what YOU'VE posted, *I* am of the opinion that you have been screwed blue and tattooed nude. Sorry.

RACE ON!!!
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