I'm in a dilema. I have a 95 Vette with an LT1 that I haven't driven in a year and a half due to an overheating problem that won't go away. I can start it up cold and let it idle for over an hour and it regulates temprature just fine, but as soon as I put it in gear and start driving, the temps go up. I'm thinking about replacing the motor, since it has this problem, leaks oil, and it failed smog. It has 220k miles on it (it had 165k when I bought it). I talked to an engine shop and the guy told me it wouldn't be worth overhauling it, but better to replace the motor, but the car wouldn't be worth more than $1500, even with a new motor, according to him. I want to keep the car forever so I'm not sure if this is the right thing to do. I can't afford to buy another Vette unless it has over 115k on it and after what I've been through, I don't want to chance it. I had 4 great years with this car until this problem came up. I'd like to think that as long as the car is running fine and looks good, it should stay around $4000 or $5000. I'm torn here because I want to drive this car again because I had a lot of fun with it. I still owe 5k so it isn't paid off yet.
I'm getting tired at looking at it in my driveway and feeling helpless with no definite plan of action. What would you do?

 

The car wouldn't be worth more than $1500.00 with a new motor. Does this make sense to you? How bad is the rest of the car?

 

unless the paint and interior is a total disater its worth more than that with no motor. i just redid my motor for $2000, thats rods, pistons, all machine work and heads i got here on the forum. need to check your rad. too, that could be half the prob. on a car with that many miles it might be clogged up.

 

If the engine idles for a long time after warming up to operating temp, and does not overheat till it is driven, it sounds like a likely airflow problem thru the rad more so than an internal engine problem.You need to first diagnose the problem.

 

The only thing wrong with the interior is the minor tear in the driver's seat. The exterior looks find with the exceptions of some paint chips on the hood.

 

The radiator was replace a year before this happened. Radiator cap, thermostat, and water pump were also replaced, as well as a good flushing. I took it to two dealers that basically charged me for every little diagnostic and both claimed to have cleaned off debris from between the radiator and the condensor. The oil looks normal with no water drops.

 

Transmissions can also cause overheating as they are connected to the engine and can transfer heat to it. A little rare though. Why does this guy think the car would only be worth $1500.00. Thats nuts. Am I missing something here. I would think more like ten K.

 

He based it on the milage and the age or generation of the car, saying that the 95 had no "new" technology. Personally, I like what my 95 had to offer and I really haven't felt "left out" from what the newer Vettes have to offer. The last time I check the Kelly BlueBook, my car would be worth $8000 if it didn't have the problem.

 

The transmission did get rebuilt a year and a half before this happened.

 

220K is alot of miles-still worth a hellava lot more than what he's telling you. If I owed 5k on it there'd be no question. BUT, I really think you need to find out why it's over heating.How hot does it get? and are you losing coolant?

 

With all due respect, your mechanic is an idiot. Hope you get it worked out. You got a great car. The later C4s were the best of the breed.

 

if your cooling system is ok then you might want to make sure the ecm is giving the right timing to the motor.timed to much will make it overhaet also.do the fans cut on at 230 degrees?

 

Fortunately, he's not my mechanic. He was someone I called to get prices and he gave me this.

 

The fans do cut on at or around 230. If the ECM is the problem, how do I check this?

 

How high does the temp go up to? The motor does make more heat under a load but the air flow from moving should handle the extra heat. Could it be air in the system and it gets to the water pump at higher rpm causing it to cavitate and not circulate coolant?

 

$1500???? Yes, the guy who told you this is an idiot.

Or, he just wants you to sell it to him cheap...

 

Some good suggestions here. First, you're near Sacramento. Post in the regional Calif. section that you need a good, competent, Corvette shop to look at your car.

Second, just because you have a new or newer radiator doesn't mean it's working, or is/has adequate capacity to cool your car. Someone needs to make certain it's speced to your car. And that goes for all your new parts put on in whatever (the last two years or so?) That's why there are guarantees on new parts; sometimes, they don't work as planned.

Third, with 220K miles, even as a '95 I doubt seriously that your car is worth $1500 or $10K. Somewhere in between.

And that brings up my last point, an engine. Again, some good words here, but your car is probably valued pretty close to what you owe on it. Therefore, any more expenditures and you're "upside down". It will also raise the value of your car but maybe not to what you invest. But this is all "guess-timation", so don't take it for fact.

The best advice as given my wiser heads here is to get the car adequately diagnosed, not having parts thrown on it, or values thrown out about it. And that means a little more homework and searching on your part for that one person or shop. Or, you could buy the factory service manuals and do it yourself over a period of time.

Good luck and tell us in a follow up how it's going, or how it's gone.

 

It will go 250+ in traffic. If I drive on the freeway at 55mph or more, it stays around 215.

 

That's exactly what I'm trying to do: avoid spending any more money that doesn't fix the problem. Two GM dealers manage to get about a grand from me without telling me for sure what the problem is. Thanks, and I will keep updating.

 

I'll give $1500 for it.