Help this Corvette Owner
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: El Segundo Ca
Help this Corvette Owner
1989 Corvette six speed...I'm the original owner 35 k
As posted before it went into the shop due to rough running..
After a compression check the mechanic took the heads
off saying that two cylinders had low compression. / He did
a complete valve job' including sprngs
After reaemmbly he had problems getting it timed so he
pulled the timing chain saying it was
stretched...He also replaced the ECM and various sensors
Also replaced 3 or 4 fuel injectors
Taking advice from this column
I took my losses and paid him to get the car out of that shop and
back in my possession... Now when it gets up to operating
temperature it sounds as if it's going to come apart internally..
A horrible rattle starts and the whole car shakes violently..
can someone suggest a good mechanic in the So. Cal south bay
area? Please and thank you
As posted before it went into the shop due to rough running..
After a compression check the mechanic took the heads
off saying that two cylinders had low compression. / He did
a complete valve job' including sprngs
After reaemmbly he had problems getting it timed so he
pulled the timing chain saying it was
stretched...He also replaced the ECM and various sensors
Also replaced 3 or 4 fuel injectors
Taking advice from this column
I took my losses and paid him to get the car out of that shop and
back in my possession... Now when it gets up to operating
temperature it sounds as if it's going to come apart internally..
A horrible rattle starts and the whole car shakes violently..
can someone suggest a good mechanic in the So. Cal south bay
area? Please and thank you
Last edited by Corbird; Apr 23, 2006 at 03:34 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
I can't beleive you are not holding them responsible. That just seem like an awful lot of parts replaced and work done for a 35K mile vette. I never saw your other thread, I'd make them fix the problem instead of going elsewhere only to pay more out of pocket for their screw up.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 16,488
Likes: 25
From: USA. Northern Virginia
Now is the time to be an azzhole with them, it sounds like they did alot of needless work and screwed up your motor
When you go back to him to fix your problem, be firm and tell him in writting what you expect to be done. If he won't try to make things right within 30 days, then it's time to get some legal support...and yes the lawyer can bill it against him by using a lien of some sort
I Hope this helps...yes; I'v had to be an azzhole to some people in the past that didn't play fair
When you go back to him to fix your problem, be firm and tell him in writting what you expect to be done. If he won't try to make things right within 30 days, then it's time to get some legal support...and yes the lawyer can bill it against him by using a lien of some sort
I Hope this helps...yes; I'v had to be an azzhole to some people in the past that didn't play fair
Last edited by 69mako; Apr 24, 2006 at 07:21 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 46,295
Likes: 2,596
From: Northern, VA
St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
"...can someone suggest a good mechanic in the So. Cal south bay
area?"
May I suggest that you post this in a separate thread either in C4 General or the regional forum at the very front of the CorvetteForum that has California? You'll probably get more views and responses that way.
area?"
May I suggest that you post this in a separate thread either in C4 General or the regional forum at the very front of the CorvetteForum that has California? You'll probably get more views and responses that way.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: El Segundo Ca
Originally Posted by 69mako
Now is the time to be an azzhole with them, it sounds like they did alot of needless work and screwed up your motor
When you go back to him to fix your problem, be firm and tell him in writting what you expect to be done. If he won't try to make things right within 30 days, then it's time to get some legal support...and yes the lawyer can bill it against him by using a lean of some sort
I Hope this helps...yes; I'v had to be an azzhole to some people in the past that didn't play fair
When you go back to him to fix your problem, be firm and tell him in writting what you expect to be done. If he won't try to make things right within 30 days, then it's time to get some legal support...and yes the lawyer can bill it against him by using a lean of some sort
I Hope this helps...yes; I'v had to be an azzhole to some people in the past that didn't play fair
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: El Segundo Ca
Originally Posted by 86PACER
I can't beleive you are not holding them responsible. That just seem like an awful lot of parts replaced and work done for a 35K mile vette. I never saw your other thread, I'd make them fix the problem instead of going elsewhere only to pay more out of pocket for their screw up.
apart...I don't think he wanted to do that..because he quoted me
41 hours of labor at 85 dollars an hour..He said a short block would
be in the neighborhood of 4000 dollars plus
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 0
From: GA
Originally Posted by Corbird
He said a short block would
be in the neighborhood of 4000 dollars plus
be in the neighborhood of 4000 dollars plus
Scoggins Dickey sells an L98 "replacement" engine (360hp), including vortec TPI base manifold for right around $3500.
Back to the problem at hand...
First get someone to help you for an hour or so. Take the spark plug wires off the plugs one at a time and hook it to an old plug. Ground the plug against the exhaust manifold and have the helper crank the engine. Watch the plug for spark, it should be bright blue/white. Do this with each plug wire. If one or more wires have a weak spark, ohm out the wires. If they are very high or infinity (ohms), replace the entire set. If they check good, replace the cap and rotor. If all of the plug wires give weak spark, ohm out the primary and secondary coils. And while you're in there I'd replace the cap and rotor (no telling if he cracked it installing it or if he put the button brush in correctly (under the thick rubber washer, not on top of it). If everyhting checks good up to this point, take the gnition module out and take it to an auto parts store and have them test it (its free). If it checks bad only replace it with AC Delco. If it cecks good, you have now proven out the ignition system.
Next is the fuel system. Pull the vacuum line off of the regulator and look for gas in it...any gas in that line at all is BAD, replace the regulator. If it is good, check for fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
If the fuel pressure is good find someone that knows about engines and see if you can get them to check your valve lash. If the "mechanic" set the lash too tight you'll get exactly what you describe.
If the "mechanic" was that much of a boob, I'd wonder if he installed the timing set correctly.
This should be enough to keep you busy for a little bit...let us know how these things check out.
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by Morley
He is on crack. You can get a ZZ4 LONGblock for about that.
Scoggins Dickey sells an L98 "replacement" engine (360hp), including vortec TPI base manifold for right around $3500.
Scoggins Dickey sells an L98 "replacement" engine (360hp), including vortec TPI base manifold for right around $3500.
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: El Segundo Ca
Originally Posted by Morley
He is on crack. You can get a ZZ4 LONGblock for about that.
Scoggins Dickey sells an L98 "replacement" engine (360hp), including vortec TPI base manifold for right around $3500.
Back to the problem at hand...
First get someone to help you for an hour or so. Take the spark plug wires off the plugs one at a time and hook it to an old plug. Ground the plug against the exhaust manifold and have the helper crank the engine. Watch the plug for spark, it should be bright blue/white. Do this with each plug wire. If one or more wires have a weak spark, ohm out the wires. If they are very high or infinity (ohms), replace the entire set. If they check good, replace the cap and rotor. If all of the plug wires give weak spark, ohm out the primary and secondary coils. And while you're in there I'd replace the cap and rotor (no telling if he cracked it installing it or if he put the button brush in correctly (under the thick rubber washer, not on top of it). If everyhting checks good up to this point, take the gnition module out and take it to an auto parts store and have them test it (its free). If it checks bad only replace it with AC Delco. If it cecks good, you have now proven out the ignition system.
Next is the fuel system. Pull the vacuum line off of the regulator and look for gas in it...any gas in that line at all is BAD, replace the regulator. If it is good, check for fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
If the fuel pressure is good find someone that knows about engines and see if you can get them to check your valve lash. If the "mechanic" set the lash too tight you'll get exactly what you describe.
If the "mechanic" was that much of a boob, I'd wonder if he installed the timing set correctly.
This should be enough to keep you busy for a little bit...let us know how these things check out.
Scoggins Dickey sells an L98 "replacement" engine (360hp), including vortec TPI base manifold for right around $3500.
Back to the problem at hand...
First get someone to help you for an hour or so. Take the spark plug wires off the plugs one at a time and hook it to an old plug. Ground the plug against the exhaust manifold and have the helper crank the engine. Watch the plug for spark, it should be bright blue/white. Do this with each plug wire. If one or more wires have a weak spark, ohm out the wires. If they are very high or infinity (ohms), replace the entire set. If they check good, replace the cap and rotor. If all of the plug wires give weak spark, ohm out the primary and secondary coils. And while you're in there I'd replace the cap and rotor (no telling if he cracked it installing it or if he put the button brush in correctly (under the thick rubber washer, not on top of it). If everyhting checks good up to this point, take the gnition module out and take it to an auto parts store and have them test it (its free). If it checks bad only replace it with AC Delco. If it cecks good, you have now proven out the ignition system.
Next is the fuel system. Pull the vacuum line off of the regulator and look for gas in it...any gas in that line at all is BAD, replace the regulator. If it is good, check for fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
If the fuel pressure is good find someone that knows about engines and see if you can get them to check your valve lash. If the "mechanic" set the lash too tight you'll get exactly what you describe.
If the "mechanic" was that much of a boob, I'd wonder if he installed the timing set correctly.
This should be enough to keep you busy for a little bit...let us know how these things check out.
most of this was done though
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: El Segundo Ca
Originally Posted by Morley
He is on crack. You can get a ZZ4 LONGblock for about that.
Scoggins Dickey sells an L98 "replacement" engine (360hp), including vortec TPI base manifold for right around $3500.
Back to the problem at hand...
First get someone to help you for an hour or so. Take the spark plug wires off the plugs one at a time and hook it to an old plug. Ground the plug against the exhaust manifold and have the helper crank the engine. Watch the plug for spark, it should be bright blue/white. Do this with each plug wire. If one or more wires have a weak spark, ohm out the wires. If they are very high or infinity (ohms), replace the entire set. If they check good, replace the cap and rotor. If all of the plug wires give weak spark, ohm out the primary and secondary coils. And while you're in there I'd replace the cap and rotor (no telling if he cracked it installing it or if he put the button brush in correctly (under the thick rubber washer, not on top of it). If everyhting checks good up to this point, take the gnition module out and take it to an auto parts store and have them test it (its free). If it checks bad only replace it with AC Delco. If it cecks good, you have now proven out the ignition system.
Next is the fuel system. Pull the vacuum line off of the regulator and look for gas in it...any gas in that line at all is BAD, replace the regulator. If it is good, check for fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
If the fuel pressure is good find someone that knows about engines and see if you can get them to check your valve lash. If the "mechanic" set the lash too tight you'll get exactly what you describe.
If the "mechanic" was that much of a boob, I'd wonder if he installed the timing set correctly.
This should be enough to keep you busy for a little bit...let us know how these things check out.
Scoggins Dickey sells an L98 "replacement" engine (360hp), including vortec TPI base manifold for right around $3500.
Back to the problem at hand...
First get someone to help you for an hour or so. Take the spark plug wires off the plugs one at a time and hook it to an old plug. Ground the plug against the exhaust manifold and have the helper crank the engine. Watch the plug for spark, it should be bright blue/white. Do this with each plug wire. If one or more wires have a weak spark, ohm out the wires. If they are very high or infinity (ohms), replace the entire set. If they check good, replace the cap and rotor. If all of the plug wires give weak spark, ohm out the primary and secondary coils. And while you're in there I'd replace the cap and rotor (no telling if he cracked it installing it or if he put the button brush in correctly (under the thick rubber washer, not on top of it). If everyhting checks good up to this point, take the gnition module out and take it to an auto parts store and have them test it (its free). If it checks bad only replace it with AC Delco. If it cecks good, you have now proven out the ignition system.
Next is the fuel system. Pull the vacuum line off of the regulator and look for gas in it...any gas in that line at all is BAD, replace the regulator. If it is good, check for fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
If the fuel pressure is good find someone that knows about engines and see if you can get them to check your valve lash. If the "mechanic" set the lash too tight you'll get exactly what you describe.
If the "mechanic" was that much of a boob, I'd wonder if he installed the timing set correctly.
This should be enough to keep you busy for a little bit...let us know how these things check out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 2
From: seattle WA
Morleys a nice guy-he used the term boob not to be sexist, but it's an old fashioned term meaning-he(she) doesn't know squat! You know what? Your "mechanic" should look up the word "mechanic" because he obviously does not know what a mechanic is! Get your car outa there and get some real help!-sorry! 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
Originally Posted by Corbird
this mechanic said he would now have to tear the motor completly
apart...I don't think he wanted to do that..because he quoted me
41 hours of labor at 85 dollars an hour..He said a short block would
be in the neighborhood of 4000 dollars plus
apart...I don't think he wanted to do that..because he quoted me
41 hours of labor at 85 dollars an hour..He said a short block would
be in the neighborhood of 4000 dollars plus
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City
Unbelievable, that has to be the biggest case of throwing parts at it. It doesn't run right and you need a new motor?
That guy/shop needs to be held accountable. I would not bring it back there under any circumstances, next you will need a trans, and rear end.
That guy/shop needs to be held accountable. I would not bring it back there under any circumstances, next you will need a trans, and rear end.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 46,295
Likes: 2,596
From: Northern, VA
St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Originally Posted by mseven
Unbelievable, that has to be the biggest case of throwing parts at it. It doesn't run right and you need a new motor? That guy/shop needs to be held accountable. I would not bring it back there under any circumstances, next you will need a trans, and rear end.
That guy/shop needs to be held accountable. I would not bring it back there under any circumstances, next you will need a trans, and rear end.Last edited by AORoads; Apr 24, 2006 at 09:35 AM.