C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Clutch recommendations on LT4?

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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 08:02 PM
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Default Clutch recommendations on LT4?

Haven't dyno'ed since my latest engine work. Guessing aorund 350rwhp.

Need a new clutch and open for recomendations. If the stock flywheel is good, should i just have the clutch replaced with stock? It seems to hold fine.

If it's not good, go for the camaro single mass and then a regular stage 1 flywheel to match that?

I've never done any tranny work so I don't really know what to do here.

Thanks!

Curtis
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 08:35 PM
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how many mikes? Do you race?

I would stick with the DMFW... or... go all out and get a mcleod street twin with the steel SMFW... and get the FWs match balanced.
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by GlockLT4
Haven't dyno'ed since my latest engine work. Guessing aorund 350rwhp.

Need a new clutch and open for recomendations. If the stock flywheel is good, should i just have the clutch replaced with stock? It seems to hold fine.
Curtis
IMHO I would not replace with the stock clutch considering your mods.....based on multiple reports here on the forum the stock clutch has a very limited life on modded engine and drag radials.....so do it right the first time.....

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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
how many mikes? Do you race?

I would stick with the DMFW... or... go all out and get a mcleod street twin with the steel SMFW... and get the FWs match balanced.
I have 58k on the car. The only racing that I really do is roadracing, and i tend to stick in 3rd gear for that.

How much is mcleod? Trying to keep it under $1k! My labor is $325... parts...?

Last edited by GlockLT4; Apr 24, 2006 at 10:20 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by LT4BUD
IMHO I would not replace with the stock clutch considering your mods.....based on multiple reports here on the forum the stock clutch has a very limited life on modded engine and drag radials.....so do it right the first time.....

Drag's are not a problem, hehe. I never plan on using them... too much breaks!

Last edited by GlockLT4; Apr 24, 2006 at 10:19 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by GlockLT4
Haven't dyno'ed since my latest engine work. Guessing aorund 350rwhp.

Need a new clutch and open for recomendations. If the stock flywheel is good, should i just have the clutch replaced with stock? It seems to hold fine.

If it's not good, go for the camaro single mass and then a regular stage 1 flywheel to match that?

I've never done any tranny work so I don't really know what to do here.

Thanks!

Curtis
Curtis,

I would do a little more research to determine if you really want to deal with the smfw and the noise it makes. Even take a poll if you need to.

If I could go back to the stock system or flywheel I would.

I have the fidanza and the mcleod clutch and I am amazed over the amount of noise it makes. It does sound like a bags of rocks. It may be a combination of my 3" exhaust and cam selection enhancing the sound but it makes quite a bit of noise.

Hell, I may be just too dam old now. Don't care for the resonance either - but that I can deal with.

Anyway - engine and drivetrain is solid like a rock, but the noise makes the car sound like it's falling apart - and yes - I know the noise will disappear by pushing in the clutch, but you shouldn't have to.

Hope this helps,

Glenn
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 12:45 AM
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Curtis,

You have been around here since I joined about 5 years ago. When I joined I had just got my 92 ZF6 and it needed a clutch. I did a ton of research here at the time having a good idea how much I was going to mod it. The final result was trouble free and has held true over the years. I replaced with an oem stock clutch.

1) 40 - 50% of those who go aftermarket single mass flywheel setups tear down second time due to issues. Plus they make lots of noise. Enough to make passangers think something is broke.
2) The McCloud is a great clutch, but requires modification to the bell housing for clearence. Maybe that's changed by now. I assume you don't want to be stuck in traffic with one unless you have Nitro's calfs.
3) The Centerforce options where not respected by those who drag race.
4) OEM Dual mass flywheel is not supposed to be cut and is $1200 to buy new. Truth is if just removing light scorching/burning and not deeper rivet groves you should be OK depending on miles. I had 75K on it and shaved off 6 thousands to clean it up. Been just fine for the last 5 years and 15K miles later.
5) OEM Clutch should be good up to 400HP. Depending what other mods you have planned, this might be your deciding factor.

Let me clarify:
I do not beat on it at the track. Never run a 1/4.
I do not drive like an old lady and enjoy most on-ramps
I drive it daily during good NE weather months
I have no driveline noise, just occasional squeeks from the roof
I haven't dyno'd but should be around 340 - 350 at the flywheel (guessing 300-315 at rear wheel) considering mods. (hotcam, corsa, cold air intake, chip, 1.6 rollers, electric waterpump).

In addition, I watched a co-worker go the race clutch route on a talon. Don't laugh he was low 13's about to break 12's. But that clutch was a ****, hard as hell to drive on a daily basis, he was had all kinds of engagement/release issues, not mention beaking or bending pedal linkage. I drove it and could hardly shift it.

If you don't drag often and plan on staying <= 400HP then stick with the original set up. It's good stuff, even if the DM is a bit heavy.

Last edited by Jay Axson; Apr 25, 2006 at 12:52 AM.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay Axson
Curtis,

You have been around here since I joined about 5 years ago. When I joined I had just got my 92 ZF6 and it needed a clutch. I did a ton of research here at the time having a good idea how much I was going to mod it. The final result was trouble free and has held true over the years. I replaced with an oem stock clutch.

1) 40 - 50% of those who go aftermarket single mass flywheel setups tear down second time due to issues. Plus they make lots of noise. Enough to make passangers think something is broke.
2) The McCloud is a great clutch, but requires modification to the bell housing for clearence. Maybe that's changed by now. I assume you don't want to be stuck in traffic with one unless you have Nitro's calfs.
3) The Centerforce options where not respected by those who drag race.
4) OEM Dual mass flywheel is not supposed to be cut and is $1200 to buy new. Truth is if just removing light scorching/burning and not deeper rivet groves you should be OK depending on miles. I had 75K on it and shaved off 6 thousands to clean it up. Been just fine for the last 5 years and 15K miles later.
5) OEM Clutch should be good up to 400HP. Depending what other mods you have planned, this might be your deciding factor.

Let me clarify:
I do not beat on it at the track. Never run a 1/4.
I do not drive like an old lady and enjoy most on-ramps
I drive it daily during good NE weather months
I have no driveline noise, just occasional squeeks from the roof
I haven't dyno'd but should be around 340 - 350 at the flywheel (guessing 300-315 at rear wheel) considering mods. (hotcam, corsa, cold air intake, chip, 1.6 rollers, electric waterpump).

In addition, I watched a co-worker go the race clutch route on a talon. Don't laugh he was low 13's about to break 12's. But that clutch was a ****, hard as hell to drive on a daily basis, he was had all kinds of engagement/release issues, not mention beaking or bending pedal linkage. I drove it and could hardly shift it.

If you don't drag often and plan on staying <= 400HP then stick with the original set up. It's good stuff, even if the DM is a bit heavy.
Thanks for the info Jason! I have definitely been thinking about the noise from the smfw. R94LT1 had the SMFW and it was really loud (to me). Anytime that it was in Neutral and the clutch wasn't pushed in, or you were taking off in 1st or 2nd gear it seemed to be pretty bad.

I'm hoping that the shop will call and say that the flywheel is good to reuse. He said about $400-600 for a new one though.

How much is stock clutch? Anyone have a part number? I think that stock should hold. I really don't plan on adding much more power to it. It's dangerous as it is .
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GM_96LT4
Curtis,

I would do a little more research to determine if you really want to deal with the smfw and the noise it makes. Even take a poll if you need to.

If I could go back to the stock system or flywheel I would.

I have the fidanza and the mcleod clutch and I am amazed over the amount of noise it makes. It does sound like a bags of rocks. It may be a combination of my 3" exhaust and cam selection enhancing the sound but it makes quite a bit of noise.

Hell, I may be just too dam old now. Don't care for the resonance either - but that I can deal with.

Anyway - engine and drivetrain is solid like a rock, but the noise makes the car sound like it's falling apart - and yes - I know the noise will disappear by pushing in the clutch, but you shouldn't have to.

Hope this helps,

Glenn
Thanks for the info glenn. Those SWFW definitely sound like rocks flying around in there! I wonder why....
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 01:56 PM
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hey guys,on a related note,does anyone make a better clutch disc/pressure plate to use with the stock dm flywheel?thoughts/opinions?
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 02:06 PM
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I recently installed the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch setup retaining my OEM DM flywheel. Best the clutch has ever felt in this car...period!
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFNLSA
I recently installed the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch setup retaining my OEM DM flywheel. Best the clutch has ever felt in this car...period!
How much was it?
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 08:43 PM
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Curtis I got my OEM clutch from Superior Chevolet. I don't remember exactly but I think it was around 450 with t/o bearing.

Jay
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay Axson
2) The McCloud is a great clutch, but requires modification to the bell housing for clearence. Maybe that's changed by now. I assume you don't want to be stuck in traffic with one unless you have Nitro's calfs.
3) The Centerforce options where not respected by those who drag race.
Jay,
I agree with your assessment of the SM options.

However, I would like to clarify that the McLeod does not require bellhousing mods, nor is the pedal feel much different from stock. I have run the CF unit (failed quite soon after install, but in defense is rated to 450RWHP, so understandable), SPEC, and the McLeod. I still run the McLeod that has run for ~5 yrs of consistent 1/4 mile abuse.

With regards to the cost of the factory DMFW, I had a complete unit (DM, clutch, PP, & TO bearing) that I was selling for $200, but was just recently picked up by a fellow CF member.

Aaron
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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I think it was the dual friction McCloud that required a little grinding. I never had the pleasure to drive one. I was actually wondering if the fact our clutch systems are hydrolic would make a diff. I know driving my buddies talon was like doing leg presses!
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 09:27 PM
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I will say that the factory clutch in the '88 is stiffer than the McLeod twin w/ Al FW. The McLeod is truly a pleasure to drive.

Aaron
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 10:27 PM
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That's great to know. Sounds like McLeod did a great job to get the extra pressure and keep an easy pedal.

Oh, I have a 92 with the ZF6 speed. You have an 88 which had the 4+3 if I am not mistaken. That may explain the bell housing mod was not needed for your install.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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My '88 4+3 has the stock clutch assy and is stiffer than my '87 with the McLeod on the ZF or the '89.

Yes, I do have some strange animals.

Aaron
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 10:41 PM
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Wow, any LS1's in the mix
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by GlockLT4
How much was it?
Man, I wish I could give you an exact (around $500 I think) on that but the ZFDoc did the work for me & had the parts on hand.
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