Clutch recommendations on LT4?
Need a new clutch and open for recomendations. If the stock flywheel is good, should i just have the clutch replaced with stock? It seems to hold fine.
If it's not good, go for the camaro single mass and then a regular stage 1 flywheel to match that?
I've never done any tranny work so I don't really know what to do here.
Thanks!
Curtis
Need a new clutch and open for recomendations. If the stock flywheel is good, should i just have the clutch replaced with stock? It seems to hold fine.
Curtis
I would stick with the DMFW... or... go all out and get a mcleod street twin with the steel SMFW... and get the FWs match balanced.
How much is mcleod? Trying to keep it under $1k! My labor is $325... parts...?
Last edited by GlockLT4; Apr 24, 2006 at 10:20 PM.

Last edited by GlockLT4; Apr 24, 2006 at 10:19 PM.
Need a new clutch and open for recomendations. If the stock flywheel is good, should i just have the clutch replaced with stock? It seems to hold fine.
If it's not good, go for the camaro single mass and then a regular stage 1 flywheel to match that?
I've never done any tranny work so I don't really know what to do here.
Thanks!
Curtis
I would do a little more research to determine if you really want to deal with the smfw and the noise it makes. Even take a poll if you need to.
If I could go back to the stock system or flywheel I would.
I have the fidanza and the mcleod clutch and I am amazed over the amount of noise it makes. It does sound like a bags of rocks. It may be a combination of my 3" exhaust and cam selection enhancing the sound but it makes quite a bit of noise.
Hell, I may be just too dam old now. Don't care for the resonance either - but that I can deal with.
Anyway - engine and drivetrain is solid like a rock, but the noise makes the car sound like it's falling apart - and yes - I know the noise will disappear by pushing in the clutch, but you shouldn't have to.
Hope this helps,
Glenn
You have been around here since I joined about 5 years ago. When I joined I had just got my 92 ZF6 and it needed a clutch. I did a ton of research here at the time having a good idea how much I was going to mod it. The final result was trouble free and has held true over the years. I replaced with an oem stock clutch.
1) 40 - 50% of those who go aftermarket single mass flywheel setups tear down second time due to issues. Plus they make lots of noise. Enough to make passangers think something is broke.
2) The McCloud is a great clutch, but requires modification to the bell housing for clearence. Maybe that's changed by now. I assume you don't want to be stuck in traffic with one unless you have Nitro's calfs.
3) The Centerforce options where not respected by those who drag race.
4) OEM Dual mass flywheel is not supposed to be cut and is $1200 to buy new. Truth is if just removing light scorching/burning and not deeper rivet groves you should be OK depending on miles. I had 75K on it and shaved off 6 thousands to clean it up. Been just fine for the last 5 years and 15K miles later.
5) OEM Clutch should be good up to 400HP. Depending what other mods you have planned, this might be your deciding factor.
Let me clarify:
I do not beat on it at the track. Never run a 1/4.
I do not drive like an old lady and enjoy most on-ramps

I drive it daily during good NE weather months
I have no driveline noise, just occasional squeeks from the roof

I haven't dyno'd but should be around 340 - 350 at the flywheel (guessing 300-315 at rear wheel) considering mods. (hotcam, corsa, cold air intake, chip, 1.6 rollers, electric waterpump).
In addition, I watched a co-worker go the race clutch route on a talon. Don't laugh he was low 13's about to break 12's. But that clutch was a ****, hard as hell to drive on a daily basis, he was had all kinds of engagement/release issues, not mention beaking or bending pedal linkage. I drove it and could hardly shift it.
If you don't drag often and plan on staying <= 400HP then stick with the original set up. It's good stuff, even if the DM is a bit heavy.
Last edited by Jay Axson; Apr 25, 2006 at 12:52 AM.
You have been around here since I joined about 5 years ago. When I joined I had just got my 92 ZF6 and it needed a clutch. I did a ton of research here at the time having a good idea how much I was going to mod it. The final result was trouble free and has held true over the years. I replaced with an oem stock clutch.
1) 40 - 50% of those who go aftermarket single mass flywheel setups tear down second time due to issues. Plus they make lots of noise. Enough to make passangers think something is broke.
2) The McCloud is a great clutch, but requires modification to the bell housing for clearence. Maybe that's changed by now. I assume you don't want to be stuck in traffic with one unless you have Nitro's calfs.
3) The Centerforce options where not respected by those who drag race.
4) OEM Dual mass flywheel is not supposed to be cut and is $1200 to buy new. Truth is if just removing light scorching/burning and not deeper rivet groves you should be OK depending on miles. I had 75K on it and shaved off 6 thousands to clean it up. Been just fine for the last 5 years and 15K miles later.
5) OEM Clutch should be good up to 400HP. Depending what other mods you have planned, this might be your deciding factor.
Let me clarify:
I do not beat on it at the track. Never run a 1/4.
I do not drive like an old lady and enjoy most on-ramps

I drive it daily during good NE weather months
I have no driveline noise, just occasional squeeks from the roof

I haven't dyno'd but should be around 340 - 350 at the flywheel (guessing 300-315 at rear wheel) considering mods. (hotcam, corsa, cold air intake, chip, 1.6 rollers, electric waterpump).
In addition, I watched a co-worker go the race clutch route on a talon. Don't laugh he was low 13's about to break 12's. But that clutch was a ****, hard as hell to drive on a daily basis, he was had all kinds of engagement/release issues, not mention beaking or bending pedal linkage. I drove it and could hardly shift it.
If you don't drag often and plan on staying <= 400HP then stick with the original set up. It's good stuff, even if the DM is a bit heavy.
I'm hoping that the shop will call and say that the flywheel is good to reuse. He said about $400-600 for a new one though.
How much is stock clutch? Anyone have a part number? I think that stock should hold. I really don't plan on adding much more power to it. It's dangerous as it is
.
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I would do a little more research to determine if you really want to deal with the smfw and the noise it makes. Even take a poll if you need to.
If I could go back to the stock system or flywheel I would.
I have the fidanza and the mcleod clutch and I am amazed over the amount of noise it makes. It does sound like a bags of rocks. It may be a combination of my 3" exhaust and cam selection enhancing the sound but it makes quite a bit of noise.
Hell, I may be just too dam old now. Don't care for the resonance either - but that I can deal with.
Anyway - engine and drivetrain is solid like a rock, but the noise makes the car sound like it's falling apart - and yes - I know the noise will disappear by pushing in the clutch, but you shouldn't have to.
Hope this helps,
Glenn
3) The Centerforce options where not respected by those who drag race.
I agree with your assessment of the SM options.
However, I would like to clarify that the McLeod does not require bellhousing mods, nor is the pedal feel much different from stock. I have run the CF unit (failed quite soon after install, but in defense is rated to 450RWHP, so understandable), SPEC, and the McLeod. I still run the McLeod that has run for ~5 yrs of consistent 1/4 mile abuse.
With regards to the cost of the factory DMFW, I had a complete unit (DM, clutch, PP, & TO bearing) that I was selling for $200, but was just recently picked up by a fellow CF member.
Aaron
Oh, I have a 92 with the ZF6 speed. You have an 88 which had the 4+3 if I am not mistaken. That may explain the bell housing mod was not needed for your install.


















