Clutch recommendations on LT4?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 18
From: Raleigh, NC
There is no bell housing modifications required for the McLeod twin disk, there is one in my car now. The one McLeod twin I drove prior to this one was in a 95 C4, and it drove like a stock car.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 22,267
Likes: 3
From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by neat
There is no bell housing modifications required for the McLeod twin disk, there is one in my car now. The one McLeod twin I drove prior to this one was in a 95 C4, and it drove like a stock car.
So can anyone help me out with pricing on these? Do we have a comparison setup somewhere that would rank all of these?
BTW, the shop said once they fix my opti they will figure out if they think the clutch needs to be replaced or not. Might be able to get a little more out of it sounds like.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,525
Likes: 2
From: Houston TX
I have run stock, CenterForce, SPEC (Stage 3 & 3+), and McLeod. My ranking is that stock is good to 375-400RWHP, CF is good to 450ish RWHP, SPEC is good to 550-650RWHP, and McLeod is good for everything that you might want to throw at it, with regard to RWHP. I will say that SPEC is more forgiving of hard launches, while McLeod will help you find the next weakest link in your car (typically the rear or halfshafts/spindles). The SPEC assy (SMFW, disk, PP, TO bearing) will set you back in the $950 ish range, while the McLeod will hit you in the $1050 (steel SMFW) - $1225 (Aluminum SMFW).
I hope this helps,
Aaron
I hope this helps,
Aaron
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 18
From: Raleigh, NC
I can get you the McLeod twin with the aluminum single mass flywheel for $1080 plus shipping.
I have ran 2 clutch assemblies prior to the McLeod that I am in the middle of installing. The stocker, and the stocker with a hardened disk.
The 92 in my sig was the stock set-up with a hardened disk. I launched the car from 6,000 RPM's on slicks repeatedly (50+ times) with no ill effects. The clutch was still going strong when I sold the car. However, the best 60' I was ever able to manage was a 1.80, with a 1.85 average. I suspect the clutch assembly was slipping some, preventing me from getting a lower 60' time.
My current car is the 91 in my sig. The stock set-up was working great, but with the nitrous flowing it felt like it would slip a bit in 3rd and fourth gear at the drag strip, especially when I hot lapped it. I finally missed a gear and destroyed it. That's when I started to do research on all the clutch set-ups out there.
A friend of mine had a spec stage 3 in his C4, and ended up swapping it for the McLeod. With the spec, there was no slip at all, the clutch was either engaged or disengaged. It hit so violently at the track that he managed to break the positraction unit inside his D44. That transferred all the torque to one wheel, broke that spindle, and ended up slinging the half-shaft around in wide circles doing some pretty serious damage to the car. He replaced the spec with a McLeod twin. Apparently he can slip the McLeod a bit on the launch and cushion the hit.
The ability to slip the clutch some, the fact that it drives like a stock clutch, and knowing it will hold any amount of power while biting like Godzilla if you dump it made it an easy choice for me. It also comes with a new, metal master cylinder. I bought a new slave from www.rockauto.com for $87, so now I have a new hydraulic system to go with my new clutch.
Kinda seemed like a simple decision to me, but I drag race the car every weekend so I wanted a clutch I never had to worry about again. My spindles, half shafts, main shaft, and spicer U-joint's have all been cryo-treated; so hopefully I don't break anything right away with this clutch.
Let us know what you decide to do, and report back how you like it.
I have ran 2 clutch assemblies prior to the McLeod that I am in the middle of installing. The stocker, and the stocker with a hardened disk.
The 92 in my sig was the stock set-up with a hardened disk. I launched the car from 6,000 RPM's on slicks repeatedly (50+ times) with no ill effects. The clutch was still going strong when I sold the car. However, the best 60' I was ever able to manage was a 1.80, with a 1.85 average. I suspect the clutch assembly was slipping some, preventing me from getting a lower 60' time.
My current car is the 91 in my sig. The stock set-up was working great, but with the nitrous flowing it felt like it would slip a bit in 3rd and fourth gear at the drag strip, especially when I hot lapped it. I finally missed a gear and destroyed it. That's when I started to do research on all the clutch set-ups out there.
A friend of mine had a spec stage 3 in his C4, and ended up swapping it for the McLeod. With the spec, there was no slip at all, the clutch was either engaged or disengaged. It hit so violently at the track that he managed to break the positraction unit inside his D44. That transferred all the torque to one wheel, broke that spindle, and ended up slinging the half-shaft around in wide circles doing some pretty serious damage to the car. He replaced the spec with a McLeod twin. Apparently he can slip the McLeod a bit on the launch and cushion the hit.
The ability to slip the clutch some, the fact that it drives like a stock clutch, and knowing it will hold any amount of power while biting like Godzilla if you dump it made it an easy choice for me. It also comes with a new, metal master cylinder. I bought a new slave from www.rockauto.com for $87, so now I have a new hydraulic system to go with my new clutch.
Kinda seemed like a simple decision to me, but I drag race the car every weekend so I wanted a clutch I never had to worry about again. My spindles, half shafts, main shaft, and spicer U-joint's have all been cryo-treated; so hopefully I don't break anything right away with this clutch.
Let us know what you decide to do, and report back how you like it.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,030
Likes: 6
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by Jay Axson
Curtis,
You have been around here since I joined about 5 years ago. When I joined I had just got my 92 ZF6 and it needed a clutch. I did a ton of research here at the time having a good idea how much I was going to mod it. The final result was trouble free and has held true over the years. I replaced with an oem stock clutch.
1) 40 - 50% of those who go aftermarket single mass flywheel setups tear down second time due to issues. Plus they make lots of noise. Enough to make passangers think something is broke.
2) The McCloud is a great clutch, but requires modification to the bell housing for clearence. Maybe that's changed by now. I assume you don't want to be stuck in traffic with one unless you have Nitro's calfs.
3) The Centerforce options where not respected by those who drag race.
4) OEM Dual mass flywheel is not supposed to be cut and is $1200 to buy new. Truth is if just removing light scorching/burning and not deeper rivet groves you should be OK depending on miles. I had 75K on it and shaved off 6 thousands to clean it up. Been just fine for the last 5 years and 15K miles later.
5) OEM Clutch should be good up to 400HP. Depending what other mods you have planned, this might be your deciding factor.
Let me clarify:
I do not beat on it at the track. Never run a 1/4.
I do not drive like an old lady and enjoy most on-ramps
I drive it daily during good NE weather months
I have no driveline noise, just occasional squeeks from the roof
I haven't dyno'd but should be around 340 - 350 at the flywheel (guessing 300-315 at rear wheel) considering mods. (hotcam, corsa, cold air intake, chip, 1.6 rollers, electric waterpump).
In addition, I watched a co-worker go the race clutch route on a talon. Don't laugh he was low 13's about to break 12's. But that clutch was a ****, hard as hell to drive on a daily basis, he was had all kinds of engagement/release issues, not mention beaking or bending pedal linkage. I drove it and could hardly shift it.
If you don't drag often and plan on staying <= 400HP then stick with the original set up. It's good stuff, even if the DM is a bit heavy.
You have been around here since I joined about 5 years ago. When I joined I had just got my 92 ZF6 and it needed a clutch. I did a ton of research here at the time having a good idea how much I was going to mod it. The final result was trouble free and has held true over the years. I replaced with an oem stock clutch.
1) 40 - 50% of those who go aftermarket single mass flywheel setups tear down second time due to issues. Plus they make lots of noise. Enough to make passangers think something is broke.
2) The McCloud is a great clutch, but requires modification to the bell housing for clearence. Maybe that's changed by now. I assume you don't want to be stuck in traffic with one unless you have Nitro's calfs.
3) The Centerforce options where not respected by those who drag race.
4) OEM Dual mass flywheel is not supposed to be cut and is $1200 to buy new. Truth is if just removing light scorching/burning and not deeper rivet groves you should be OK depending on miles. I had 75K on it and shaved off 6 thousands to clean it up. Been just fine for the last 5 years and 15K miles later.
5) OEM Clutch should be good up to 400HP. Depending what other mods you have planned, this might be your deciding factor.
Let me clarify:
I do not beat on it at the track. Never run a 1/4.
I do not drive like an old lady and enjoy most on-ramps
I drive it daily during good NE weather months
I have no driveline noise, just occasional squeeks from the roof
I haven't dyno'd but should be around 340 - 350 at the flywheel (guessing 300-315 at rear wheel) considering mods. (hotcam, corsa, cold air intake, chip, 1.6 rollers, electric waterpump).
In addition, I watched a co-worker go the race clutch route on a talon. Don't laugh he was low 13's about to break 12's. But that clutch was a ****, hard as hell to drive on a daily basis, he was had all kinds of engagement/release issues, not mention beaking or bending pedal linkage. I drove it and could hardly shift it.
If you don't drag often and plan on staying <= 400HP then stick with the original set up. It's good stuff, even if the DM is a bit heavy.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,472
Likes: 0
From: Toronto ONTARIO
I have a mcleod twin disk now but i havn't driven the car. previously i had a centerforce dual friction for 3 years. I did top speed runs and over 100 1/4 passes. No slip at all. :pedal effort was easier than stock i loved it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,444
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by neat
There is no bell housing modifications required for the McLeod twin disk, there is one in my car now. The one McLeod twin I drove prior to this one was in a 95 C4, and it drove like a stock car.
Cool, either conventional wisdom at the time was incorrect (2001), they since fixed the problem, or my memory is in complete failure. But I recall excluding the twin for that very reason.
Anyway, glad it is a direct bolt in and I appologize for the inaccurate statement
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 22,267
Likes: 3
From: Dallas TX
Well i picked up the car last night and it runs great. Mechanic said that the clutch is fine for now but every once in a while put it in 4th or 5th gear at low speed and floor it, then blip the clutch a bit to see if it slips at all. He said he couldn't tell it was slipping. So i guess i'm safe for now. Appreciate all the replies though. When i have to have it replaced, if the flywheel is ok, i'll just replace with stock. If it isn't, then I'll figure out what to do at that time .
.
Last edited by GlockLT4; May 2, 2006 at 05:32 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,898
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
I just bought the complete OEM setup for my 91 from dialaclutch.com for $980 Shipped. Included were: Luk DMF, Valeo Clutch, Slave Cylinder. I bought the Master Cylinder locally. Installation was $350 @Firestone in Norman...oops, I see that you are no longer in OKC.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 22,267
Likes: 3
From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by CMYC4GO
I just bought the complete OEM setup for my 91 from dialaclutch.com for $980 Shipped. Included were: Luk DMF, Valeo Clutch, Slave Cylinder. I bought the Master Cylinder locally. Installation was $350 @Firestone in Norman...oops, I see that you are no longer in OKC.
Hehe yeah ... graduated about 2 years ago. I'll check out dialaclutch.com and see what they've got though. Thanks!
