Looking for a good automatic transmission cooler fro my 96 C4. I would like something that is setup to use brained an fitting and lines. Anyone know of anything.

 

I bought a B&M from Summit

part# BMM-70268 $45.95 it's 11" x 7"

get your self a trans temp gauge while you're at it.

 

forgot some poor pics

 

Thanks for the pics and info.

 

Thanks for the pics Mojo.

Do you have any before/after temp observations?

 

I have the same B&M cooler as Mojo...I had it put it in when I went to a 3200 stall converter...I thought about a temp gauge but my vette guy said he would not recommend spending the money...the fact is I have driven and raced the car for years without one so why would I need one now that I've added a cooler?...

If you are really into piece of mind, that's fine, but that's really all it does...if you are curious as to any drop in temps after adding a cooler just shoot the tranny with a temp gun to check...

 

No, I haven't installed the temp gauge yet.

 

Temp gauge is only like $50.

 

There are 2 different types of trans coolers.. 1. is the B&M type finned aluminum... the 2nd is called a Stacked Plate which I fine MUCH BETTER & More Efficient

I had a Vigilante 3200 converter & a B&M my trans ran 210 deg... anyway I hit a brick on the Tappan Zee Bridge & it broke the cooler.. I replaced it with one from Carquest Auto Parts.. only $40 & it works 100& BETTER than the finned aluminum type..

When you go to buy a trans cooler make sure you ask for a Stacked Plate Cooler Now my trans runs 30 deg cooler 180-190..

 

i was doing research on gauges last night. it seems the best place to put the temp sender is in the incoming tranny line. it gives you the temp of the fluid that will be pumped into the tranny--the same as if it were placed on the pan. pan installs may be torn lose, obviously. the problem with the line install is coming up with a three-way that will allow circulation to the sender, but not block the fluid flow. the flow and pressure must not be impeded. there were several brass three-way tees shown. that is going to take some time to put together at the hardware store, but this is a fun project. allegedly, the easiest install is through a 1/8, left side tranny plug halfway up the housing. but this location does not allow good flow over the sender.

i found the best gauge is a digital one with an electric sender. analog, electrical sender gauges have only a 120-180 degree sweep, which leaves very little space for subtle observation of the AUTO TRANNY'S IDEAL OIL TEMPERATURE RANGE: 175-220 DEGREES. a digital gauge will give you the exact reading.

the other option is a mechanical, analog gauge with a 270 degree sweep. this would be almost as good as the digital if it didn't risk spewing hot oil into your lap when it fails.

heres a good temp gauge install guide:

http://www.bankspower.com/ownersmanuals/96326.pdf

here are some cheap, digital sites: nordskorg gauges:

http://www.rjays.com/Gauges/nord-digital-street-01.htm

here are the cheaper cyberdyne--which may actually be the nords dressed differently:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0339&langId=-1

both gauges offer a flashing, adjustable high temp warning--which relieves you from spending a lot of time, attention and adrenaline flicking your eye to yet another gauge. they also need a $15 sending unit. i spent a lot of time checking gauges, and these are most definitely bang for the buck. in fact, you're lucky i'm able to share this with you. i was almost brain dead at the end of it all. there was no glucose left in the cranial bank.


i'm thinking about putting in tranny, o2 and vacuum gauges. only the vacuum must be analog. the other two are better digital. believe it. or not.

here is the old temp/lifespan tranny graph everyone has been talking about:

http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/tra...expectancy.htm

also, you should run the tranny oil through the rad cooler before running into the external one for max cooling. also, the above link shows why it is important to lower rad temps below the insane emissions levels programmed into early computer cars. how you gonna cool the tranny oil, when you're rad temp is 220? we're talking accelerated and premature failure--especially if you're running an aftermarket tranny. cause' experience shows most don't hold up near as long as the stockers.

if you want some web tips on how to read a vacuum gauge, send me something to eat.


weary, frog.

 

I have a tranny temp gauge that I fabricated to work with my existing cluster's Engine Oil temp gauge. Pretty Simple really....

Go to your local parts store and buy an engine oil temp sending unit for your year. Then go to the hardware store (you know the kind that existed before Home Depot) and buy a brass T block that allows you to thread the temp sender and fittings for the tranny lines. The goal being to have the fluid run through the block unrestricted, yet make contact with the sensor. The ones I found at the local Ace Hardware worked perfectly. Splice this block into your tranny return line (I did mine near the radiator). Remember to maintain a ground path for the sensor, that is, attach the brass block to a flare fit transmission side return line, or chassis ground the block if the connection is made with hose fittings.

After the plumbing you will need to wire this. Really quite simple. Buy a SPDT or DPDT switch (a rocker from Radio Shack was my choice), and figure out a convenient mounting spot on the dash or in the interior of your car.

The Oil temp sending unit on the engine is located right above the Oil filter. Find and cut the sensor wire a few inches from the unit. You now have two ends, one leading to the engine Oil temp sensor, the other leading to the wiring harness and computer. You are going to attach wires between these two ends and the dashboard switch. Splice the wire attached to the harness end to center switch connection, and splice the sensor end wire to the top switch connection. Create a spade lug ended wire to attach to your new Transmission Oil Temp sensor and attach the other end to the bottom switch connection. Thats it.

What you have done is allowed the switch to select the sensor source for the computer and gauge. The temperature ranges are the same, the sensor environment is the same, and the computer reacts to the switching of the sensors pretty rapidly (there is some filtering so when you go from reading the engine at 220 to the tranny at 160 it takes a 3-4 seconds to slew down, but no big deal. Remember if you have an early C4 the Oil Pressure/Oil temp switch needs to be in the correct position.

Accurate and pretty stock looking. I thought it was a better solution then trying to mount a gauge somewhere. The hook-up labor is about the same, and it costs lots less.

If you have any questions, I'll be glad to help.

 

I went with the B&M 70264 and my trans is running about 20 degrees cooler than it did before my install. (IE it runs cooler with the 2800 stall and the tranny cooler than it did stock)


Whats wrong with reading the temp on the factory cluster?
Mike

 

There isn't one until the later years

 

Got it!
I knew you had a 95, I had to check your profile to see that its your 6 speed and the 93 is your A4.

 

i like it. at about twenty bucks, this is a good set-up for added insurance--especially if you've forked over serious cake for a new tranny. there is greater heat danger during hard, sustained, spirited curvy-road driving, than during drag racing with short hard accelerations with cool down periods in between.

how, or have you marked the rocker switch to show who does what. i've pictured using some of that hand cranked, sticky plastic tape people used to mark everything with--uuuugh!. got a better suggestion?

you could use this solution for almost any temp reading-like a diff temp gauge. where in the hell would you mount one in the diff? i saw people who used over two inputs using a rotary switch during my web search. you could mount a rocker panel and get intake air temps too (recommended just in front of throttle body)-each sender will only cost you about fifteen bucks. the only advantage to the nords digital gauge is you have full time monitoring with a flashing user-set alarm temp. summit stocks c4 pillar mounts for just over $20. i don't know how they might look or affect door entry/exit.

 

Same setup as Mr. Mojo. The B&M is hooked to the tranny cooler in the Ron Davis radiator. '93, so no trans temp gauge.

 

Mr. Mojo,

In your first photo of your transmission cooler, there is a sensor or other device on the left hand side of the photo. What is that for? I have a 1990 C4, and on mine, the electrical plug is disconnected.

 

IIRC that is the OAT. Outside air temp sensor.

 

Thanks for the response. Mine is unplugged. I presume that it should be plugged in to send proper information to the car. Please confirm this. Also what systems use the information that the OAT collects? Thanks