C4 rotor/pad install?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 187
From: Earth
C4 rotor/pad install?
I have done a search and really didn't find anything for C4's and I don't wanna assume it's the same for the info. I found on the C5's. Anyone have a outline of this process. I got a set(rotor/pads) from the Group Buy and went to put them on and had major trouble before I got the front wheel off the ground!
Jack was spent! Got a new jack and took the front drivers side off and didn't have the correct size for the caliper housing. Is this a 20mm or 21mm? I have done other brakes and rotor changes but this seems like it is more involved. Also on the back drivers side is there a easier way to remove/ deal with the E-brake mechanism?? Do I really need to mess with the handle inside the car? I thought this was going to be a pretty easy job, I was wrong! 
Any help and or pics would be great!!
Jack was spent! Got a new jack and took the front drivers side off and didn't have the correct size for the caliper housing. Is this a 20mm or 21mm? I have done other brakes and rotor changes but this seems like it is more involved. Also on the back drivers side is there a easier way to remove/ deal with the E-brake mechanism?? Do I really need to mess with the handle inside the car? I thought this was going to be a pretty easy job, I was wrong! Any help and or pics would be great!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,670
Likes: 4
From: Severna Park MD
Originally Posted by Snakecharmer383
I have done a search and really didn't find anything for C4's and I don't wanna assume it's the same for the info. I found on the C5's. Anyone have a outline of this process. I got a set(rotor/pads) from the Group Buy and went to put them on and had major trouble before I got the front wheel off the ground! Jack was spent! Got a new jack and took the front drivers side off and didn't have the correct size for the caliper housing. Is this a 20mm or 21mm? I have done other brakes and rotor changes but this seems like it is more involved. Also on the back drivers side is there a easier way to remove/ deal with the E-brake mechanism?? Do I really need to mess with the handle inside the car? I thought this was going to be a pretty easy job, I was wrong! Any help and or pics would be great!!
Jack was spent! Got a new jack and took the front drivers side off and didn't have the correct size for the caliper housing. Is this a 20mm or 21mm? I have done other brakes and rotor changes but this seems like it is more involved. Also on the back drivers side is there a easier way to remove/ deal with the E-brake mechanism?? Do I really need to mess with the handle inside the car? I thought this was going to be a pretty easy job, I was wrong! Any help and or pics would be great!!You can pull the caliper off the front to replace the pads. Just take out the retainer pin to remove the caliper from the mounting bracket. I swear, but have never done the job, but you should then be able to pull off the rotor without removing the mounting bracket.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,908
Likes: 735
From: Southwest Kansas
2022 Corvette of the Year Finalist -- Unmodified
2021 C6 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
Like you, I had done brake jobs on other cars before, but the vette was a little intimidating. Full floating calipers are a bit different. Just take your time, the Helms manual would be a plus, and you can do it. Took me about 2 hours to complete the rotor/pads. I don't remember what size those bolts were...21mm, I think I just don't recall exactly. I did go out and buy a 1/2" drive metric socket set after that job. Those "Halo" bolts are torqued to 165 ft/lbs if I remember correctly. As far as the e-brake I have the newer style so it wasn't an issue.
Good luck with the job and let us know how you come out.
Good luck with the job and let us know how you come out.
Elite Torch Red Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 57,805
Likes: 23
From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
Cental/South NJ Events Coordinator
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
CI-II Burnout & Drag Champ
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07
If it's just pads and rotors, you shouldn't have to mess with the ebrake at all. Just unbolt the rear caliper(I Think it's 19mm), pull the rotor off, put the new one on, change the brake pads, slide the caliper back on and tighten the bolts.
For the front if you were just changing the pads, you would simply pull the pin at the bottom of the caliper(there is an eclip holding teh pin on, the caliper comes off, replace pads and put caliper back on. Since you are replacing the rotor, it's the same as the rear. Remove the two bolts from the bracket, the caliper comes off with it, pull the rotor, etc.
For the front if you were just changing the pads, you would simply pull the pin at the bottom of the caliper(there is an eclip holding teh pin on, the caliper comes off, replace pads and put caliper back on. Since you are replacing the rotor, it's the same as the rear. Remove the two bolts from the bracket, the caliper comes off with it, pull the rotor, etc.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 26,196
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by Mr Mojo
If it's just pads and rotors, you shouldn't have to mess with the ebrake at all. Just unbolt the rear caliper(I Think it's 19mm), pull the rotor off, put the new one on, change the brake pads, slide the caliper back on and tighten the bolts.
For the front if you were just changing the pads, you would simply pull the pin at the bottom of the caliper(there is an eclip holding teh pin on, the caliper comes off, replace pads and put caliper back on. Since you are replacing the rotor, it's the same as the rear. Remove the two bolts from the bracket, the caliper comes off with it, pull the rotor, etc.
For the front if you were just changing the pads, you would simply pull the pin at the bottom of the caliper(there is an eclip holding teh pin on, the caliper comes off, replace pads and put caliper back on. Since you are replacing the rotor, it's the same as the rear. Remove the two bolts from the bracket, the caliper comes off with it, pull the rotor, etc.
LOL I started typing out this long thing on how easy it was and noticed you already said everything I was going to say.
As Mr Mojo said: DON'T mess with the e-brake cable. That is just a shop step that is completely pointless that will be in every manual.
One note though, If you still have the original rotors on, you may need to beat them loose with a rubber mallet or if you dont have one, use a piece of folded up cardboard and a hammer. Trust me on the folded up cardboard if you value your eardrums
2nd note to add... if you've never put new pads on yourself before, you will need to compress the calipers back a bit due to the extra thickness of the new pads. Simply press them back gently until you have enough space to slide them back over the rotor.
From start to finish, I can change a rotor and set of pads and have the tire back on in 15 mins each... its an easy project for a beginner if you have never messed with your car before.
If you get stuck, don't hesitate to post back in here. There is always someone around that can help.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
When you remove the front caliper bolts, clean the threads with a wire wheel and chase the female threads on the mounting bracket. Apply some BLUE locktite to the threads when you re-install the bracket. Torque to 165 +/- 15 ft-lbs. so 150 will do fine.
The rear calipers use two small bolts to hold the calipers to guide pins. Remove both and the caliper will lift off with the e-brfake cable still in place. The rear bracket bolts are torqued to 70 ft-lbs and you clena the blots like the fronts and reuse. Check the guide pins for lube and clean and re-lube if needed. The upper guide pin bolt is torqued to 25 ft-bls and the lower bolt to 16 ft-lb.
You will have to push the caliper pistons back into the bore to get the new pads to fit. Suck some fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir so it doesn't over flow.
It might be a good time to do a brake fluid flush if the fluid is dark. New hoses would be a good idea if yours are original.
The rear calipers use two small bolts to hold the calipers to guide pins. Remove both and the caliper will lift off with the e-brfake cable still in place. The rear bracket bolts are torqued to 70 ft-lbs and you clena the blots like the fronts and reuse. Check the guide pins for lube and clean and re-lube if needed. The upper guide pin bolt is torqued to 25 ft-bls and the lower bolt to 16 ft-lb.
You will have to push the caliper pistons back into the bore to get the new pads to fit. Suck some fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir so it doesn't over flow.
It might be a good time to do a brake fluid flush if the fluid is dark. New hoses would be a good idea if yours are original.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,874
Likes: 0
From: Littleton CO
Originally Posted by GIJoe
As Mr Mojo said: DON'T mess with the e-brake cable.
Originally Posted by GIJoe
One note though, If you still have the original rotors on, you may need to beat them loose with a rubber mallet or if you dont have one, use a piece of folded up cardboard and a hammer. Trust me on the folded up cardboard if you value your eardrums
Originally Posted by GIJoe
2nd note to add... if you've never put new pads on yourself before, you will need to compress the calipers back a bit due to the extra thickness of the new pads. Simply press them back gently until you have enough space to slide them back over the rotor.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,874
Likes: 0
From: Littleton CO
Originally Posted by Snakecharmer383
Got a new jack and took the front drivers side off and didn't have the correct size for the caliper housing. Is this a 20mm or 21mm?
It is an easy job, and I was also a first timer. The first one took a little extra time while I checked & double-checked the service manual and forum advice I'd searched and printed. The last 3 were a breeze.
Last edited by jrp; Apr 28, 2006 at 10:39 AM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
Remember to clean the rotors well, spray brake cleaner shouldn't
be inhaled.
Bed the new pads after you are done for best results.
Here is a link to info by StopTech
There are other helpful pages at the same site.
.
be inhaled.
Bed the new pads after you are done for best results.
Here is a link to info by StopTech
There are other helpful pages at the same site.
.
Last edited by Slalom4me; Apr 28, 2006 at 11:15 AM.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Forest Hill Maryland
SS brake lines
Sorry to snakecharmer383...
I am not trying to steal this thread, but....
I'm also getting prepared to a complete brake job on my 84...ordered d/s rotors and new pads...and I would like to vac out the brake fluid and maybe do ss brake lines...How hard of a job are lines and vacuuming the fluid...brakes I've done and can handle. Remeber I am dealing with 23 years of rust and corrosion, but low miles, for what its worth.
I am not trying to steal this thread, but....
I'm also getting prepared to a complete brake job on my 84...ordered d/s rotors and new pads...and I would like to vac out the brake fluid and maybe do ss brake lines...How hard of a job are lines and vacuuming the fluid...brakes I've done and can handle. Remeber I am dealing with 23 years of rust and corrosion, but low miles, for what its worth.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,670
Likes: 4
From: Severna Park MD
Originally Posted by bdaly84
Sorry to snakecharmer383...
I am not trying to steal this thread, but....
I'm also getting prepared to a complete brake job on my 84...ordered d/s rotors and new pads...and I would like to vac out the brake fluid and maybe do ss brake lines...How hard of a job are lines and vacuuming the fluid...brakes I've done and can handle. Remeber I am dealing with 23 years of rust and corrosion, but low miles, for what its worth.
I am not trying to steal this thread, but....
I'm also getting prepared to a complete brake job on my 84...ordered d/s rotors and new pads...and I would like to vac out the brake fluid and maybe do ss brake lines...How hard of a job are lines and vacuuming the fluid...brakes I've done and can handle. Remeber I am dealing with 23 years of rust and corrosion, but low miles, for what its worth.
I'm putting this flex line replacement job off myself until I can have the car up on jackstands and not worry about missing a cruise.
Edit I've been searching for that thread but can't find it. If you get to the point that you can't get the old lines off post on here. Someone will chime in with advice on the tools you need.
Last edited by FELNGR8; Apr 28, 2006 at 12:39 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
Originally Posted by FELNGR8
The hard part is going to be loosening the line connection between
the hard lines and the flex lines.
the hard lines and the flex lines.
IIRC, there was something about the rear ones that held me up for a
moment. Could not have been a big deal, didn't take any pics.
.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 187
From: Earth
Thanks for all the help guys. I'm going to tackle it again as soon as I get a day off. I do have a shop book and sometimes reading that is like looking at Greek. (espically with the exploded diagrams) If I have any probs you can bet I'm going to post up! 
I'll take some pics when I get it all done!
I'll take some pics when I get it all done!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 187
From: Earth
Finally got the fronts done. Didn't really have any trouble, I've just been short on time. I really like the outcome as far as looks. I plan to tackle the rear as soon as I can. I won't know how they actually are because I'm having a problem with Cylinder 1 it's not firing so I'm going to be doing that next.
I added some pics to my revised webpage so you can see them there.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/snakecharmer
I added some pics to my revised webpage so you can see them there.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/snakecharmer
