If the D75/25 numbers mean anything, and would guess that they do, then it may help to know that the stock, early, C4s take a group 75 battery.

RACE ON!!!

 

Optima batteries are complete garbage (if you do a search for posts from me about 12-14 months ago, you will find my experiences with these).

I basically had 3 Optima batteries in a row malfunction on me leaving me with a 'no start' condition. They would not accept a charge and were 'dead' when tested at the store I returned them too.

The batteries were only a few days old and worked one or two start cycles after completely dying.

The other problem I hear is that they dont work well on cars that are driven once a week. Thye need to be babied for any hint of longetivity. Like you should have a trickle charger on them constantly or 'battery tender'.

IMHO They are complete garbage. Their quality control is horrible. I could maybe see one battery being defective, however 3 in a row? More than just coincidence.

They are also heavy. I weighed my red top in at 38 pounds. The Sears Die Hard Gold I ended up going with was 32 pounds.

Good luck in your decision.

They are ricer junk in my opinion. Im not the only person here with bad experiences with them.

 

I won't bother posting a pic or showing the model because that looks EXACTLY like mine.

Optima RedTop FTW!

My car club is having a raffle to raise money for the site's hosting. We have one of those RedTops as one of the prizes

 

I have seen some folks trim the top posts to make them fit...this ended up in Optima voiding the warranty...just a thought...

 

Okay, how do you know?

 

I e-mailed optima on my 85 vette and this was there reply:

Both the Red 75/25 and Yellow D75/25 are applicable.

The Yellow is recommended for applicaitons that sit or are stored a lot.


Please feel free to contact customer service at the number below if you
have any other questions. Thank you for your interest and support of Optima
Batteries.

Erica
Optima Batteries
Customer Service
1.800.292.4359

 

old thread i know but i just chose the red over the yellow top optima because the red should be plenty according to specs and it weighs 5 pounds less than the yellow one.pick em both up and you can feel the difference.
napa and carquest both have a gel batt option now too but both were heavier and cost was the same.
3 years full money back/exchange for new on the optima was another deal maker.
most others prorate the months for anything over a month or 2.
hope it works out for me.its the first one ive bought and the high price has me nervous ...

 

For what its worth, I would strongly suggest you remove the battery tray prior to modifying it. All you have to do on is remove a little plastic lip on the edge of the tray that is adjacent to the engine. I believe three bolts hold the tray to the car. I think you made a good decision on the Red Top Optima......if you wanted my opinion!

 

I had 3 optima red tops in a row fail on me within 1-2 days of installation none would accept a charge and all were indicated to be 'dead' by the advance auto parts battery tester.

I went with a Sears Die Hard Gold. Interestingly, it weighed 5 pounds less than the optima red top, cost less, and requred no modification to fit.

Stay away from the optima red tops.

 

bah,who wants a common ol battery in their corvette?
dont even get to pay the corvette tax on them die hards lol
well im "optimized" now.
thanks for the tips guys.
heres how mine went:
the old interstate had leaked its juice all over the frame so i had to do the strip/clean/prime and paint thing on the frame member for starters.
got all that done and then took a 4-1/2 inch grinder to the batt holder lip on the engine side which worked slick.
then i noticed the 2 tabs on the fender side so i wacked them off flush and put the holder back in the car.
next i slid the optima in and checked the cruise bracket clearance.it had about 1/4 inch to spare even with the plastic cap on the pos post but i cut a piece of 3/4 heater hose and slipped it over the post just for comfort.theres still visible space between the protector and the bracket.
then i hooked the cables up and proceeded to strip the neg bolt threads off the bolt (thank god it wasnt the internal batt threads).
after removeing the stripped bolt with a small screwdriver i searched high an low for a new batt bolt which i have somewhere.
finally i decided its better to know you dont have something than to know you do have something but just dont know where it is.
i robbed a bolt from my 92 pickup for now and got the thing connected.
next i put the fender back on and started the alignment after cussing myself for not marking it.
heres where it dawned on me what the 2 tabs in the batt holder were there for.
they prevent the battery from interfering with the fender alignment.
(my hood wanted to push outwards)
i loosened the batt holder and nudged the batt inward a fuzzy so it just clears the fender now,and is barely contacting the cruise cables on the engine side.
on my car it would have been perfect to remove about half of the 2 tabs from the holder.
anyway,its in and done and cranks way better than i ever heard it crank.
hopefully it will keep doing it for some time now.
oh yea-the frame ground on my negative cable was pretty cruddy and would have probly give me some weirdness soon so it felt good to catch it before it was an embarrasment
thanks again guys for the pointers