OK guys... I simply cannot get my car to cool down. None of the usual tips for a L98 appy to my car as it has a big block with virtually no stock coolant parts remaining. My question relates specifically to the fill tank and the heater core. I have a hose from the high pressure side of the system that feeds the lower bung to the heater core. The top bung of the heater core then goes to the top inlet to the fill tank. The botton hose of the fill tank then goes to the low pressure side of my radiator for redistribution into the system. I was speaking to a radiator expert and he said I should see coolant moving inside of the fill tank. I never do. For the first time last night I turned the heater on and the heat didn't feel as hot as it should. I have heard that there should be a rattling in the fill tank when it is empty. I may take mine out and check it. Is there a check valve that may be stuck shut? My car has ALWAYS had heating problems with the coolant soaring to 220-230 which is way too hot for me. If there is no water flowing through the heater core that would absolutely trap air in the system. DO our heater cores have a valve that shuts off water flow when the heater is not in use? Maybe mine is stuck shut.. That would also explain it.

I have my fan set to come on at 195. Last night after first starting the car it heated up normally to 195, fan came on and cooled it back down to 185. At that point the fan kicked off and the temp went back up to 195, fan kicks on again.. but could not cool it down to any less than 191. Does that sound like air in the system?

Any help or suggestions are appreciated!!!!

 

Just outside the heater box where the top hose hooks up I have a vacuum operated valve that closes when the heater is off. Is there one on your car ? (I would really like to see that thing in person, by the way). If the valve stays open it will cool things down some, but the interior will warm up.

 

Can't answer about the heater core, 220-230 may seem high to you, but I wouldn't be to concerned about it. What is your thermostat rating? Not suggesting you use anything other than a 180, but it could be your fan is coming on to early-180 thermo opens just above 180, and your fan is coming on at 195-you're only talking about the fan cooling it about 10 degrees. My, sbc, has the fans wired to come on at 200, and off at 185, I'm using a 180 thermo, my temps have barely seen 210-while sitting. Did you go with a bigger radiator for the BB?

 

Right now I am not running a thermostat at all. The radiator is a custom unit from BeCool that is supposed to be good for 800hp. I'm thinking this radiator should have no problem keeping the car cool at idle.

 

Basing it from what I see with a 180* stat. The stat opens around 186, and my primary kicks (set)at 190. It will bring it down to about 184ish. If I am not moving I will get the same result you mention except mine will be about 187 then goes to 190* fan kicks goes down etc.
Once I start driving (moving)it will drop below 180. Dont' know if this helps, but I found basing it at stand still it will stay in that temp. range (at 70* temp. outside). Running that 532ci would probably require a custom rad. (if you don't already) and probably some additional considerations.MO

 

Where is Chandler? I'll have to check on the valve. Thanks

 

I'd be getting a thermostat in there.

 

I've had many thermostats in the past and they simply get blown open and never subsequently close. There seems to be a huge divide on whether or not a car will run cooler with out without a thermostat. The Tech guy at Meziere says the more often you circulate the water the cooler your car will run. As a matter of fact the only reason to run a thermostat (he says) is to allow your engine to run hot enough for emissions purposes and for your heater in the winter. On the otherhand, some of the other experts state that the thermostat holds the coolant in the radiator longer thus providing more cooling. Of course then when it does open the water in the block is REALLY hot.. I'm not sure there is any free lunch here. I don't think a lack of thermostat will cause it to overheat....someone please convince me otherwise....we need a thermodynamics expert here.

 

Well, I'm not an expert-just a 62 yr. old wrencher. But from past experience-we used to think if an engine was running hot-pull the thermo-that didn't help. I since was taught and believe that having coolant in the radiator while the thermostat was closed allowed for additional time for air and fans to cool the coolant-that I believe. Sure the coolant in the block is hot when it comes back into the radiator-but allowing it to continously flow without the aforementioned benefits,
Does not allow it any cooling time. And I believe if you install a thermostat and change your cooling fan timing you will see an improvement!

 

Thanks Rick, I'm with you.. I just spoke with a Radiator expert here in Indy. He said putting a thermostat in would probably do nothing because the water exiting the block is simply much much hotter when it enters the radiator. Here are my thoughts. If you have a very capable cooling system you will absolutely see a difference when you remove the thermostat, the engine will run much much cooler. If you remove the thermostat from a marginal cooling system (one that can barely cool the motor) it will not make any difference since the system simply cannot remove enough btus from the coolant no matter what you do. It is very hard to get around the physics involved, I think.....

 

WOW-I'd be checking with another "expert"!!! Yes, the coolant leaving
the engine block is generally higher in temp. For the sake of this discussion, lets assume you have a 180 stat-which generally opens around 185-and closes around 179.So-after engine has warmed up to 180-185 thermo opens allowing cool coolant into block, hot coolant circulates back into the radiator-where cool air passes through-plus a fan sucks the cool air through thus cooling the coolant-engine temps should drop allowing the thermo to close, which inturn gives the radiator and fan additional time to cool coolant,granted-it doesn't bring it down tremendously-while cruising mine will get into the 175 range. Will close the thermo and allow radiator and air flow more time. ON the other hand-without a thermostat the coolant continuously recirculates-NO holding for radiator or fan(s) to do their intended function. BELIEVE me, I've tried the no thermostat-that's BS.

 

Thanks Rick,

Nothing ventured, nothing gained. I'll try it tonight or tomorrow night. thanks for your thoughtful input!

 

BTW, I know some guys have posted positive responses regarding water wetter.

 

Put a thermostat in it and add 2 bottles of Redline water wetter.

 

At this point I will try anything... I do think I still have some air in the system. I'll try to get it all out.. add the Water wetter and a thermostat... and we'll see what happens.. Thanks!

 

B4 you just go by any old thermostat, you may want to take a look at performanceunlimited.com

Check out the Balanced thermostat.

http://performanceunlimited.com/illu...ermostats.html


Read the entire article, maybe give a copy to the "expert" just kidding, but read it.

 

Its not so much that the thermostat opens and closes giving the radiator time to cool,just look at the restriction that the thermostat causes. this in itself gives the radiator time to cool. if you remove the thermostat the water passes through the radiator so quickly it does not have enough time to dissapate heat. on a marginal system removing the thermostat will probably run a little cooler , but only because the system was marginal to start with.

 

The guy at Meziere would tell you that without a thermostat the radiator cools all of the water more often, instead of some of the water (the water trapped in the radiator with the thermostat closed) for a longer perios of time. I'm just not convinced it will make a difference; but, like I said, at this point I'm willing to rty anything.

Thanks!

 

Excuse me-the guy at Meziere is full of poooooop.Without a thermostat that water is constantly circulating and the water temps can continue to rise without any stop gap to allow for cooling.Can be easily proven-just see how long it takes to pump all the water out of your engine-not long huh? well, the water flow without a themostat is just about the same-so where in heck does he think it has an ample time for cool air and fan assist? That's nonsense.

 

I'll throw in my .02 here as well. If you have a waterpump that moves coolant too fast you car will not cool properly either. The coolant does not have sufficient time in the radiator to exchange the heat across the fins. I have personally had this happen to me. I was pulling my hair out, until someone noticed I had a hi flow waterpump. Swapped it out for a stock replacement and problem solved. This was on a supercharged car as well.