Turn Signal/Tail Lights - Rewiring for European standards
05-01-2006, 09:45 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Turn Signal/Tail Lights - Rewiring for European standards
Hi all,
Just wondering whats involved with converting a 1990 to the Euro rear indicator (turn signal) setup?
I have seen mention of wiring looms that various vendors sell for European Turn signal conversion - however, I didn't want to get this involved! because I just want to do it so I can get it passed for registration.
The turn signal has to operate indepently from the brakes.
Would an auto electrician be able to do it easily?
I have the helms manual but auto-electrics are not my strong point.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advanced
Cosmicvette
Just wondering whats involved with converting a 1990 to the Euro rear indicator (turn signal) setup?
I have seen mention of wiring looms that various vendors sell for European Turn signal conversion - however, I didn't want to get this involved! because I just want to do it so I can get it passed for registration.
The turn signal has to operate indepently from the brakes.
Would an auto electrician be able to do it easily?
I have the helms manual but auto-electrics are not my strong point.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advanced
Cosmicvette
05-02-2006, 10:05 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2001
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I've done it on my '85. An additional circuit needs to be added to the back. Bascially, a 12-14 gauge wire. It will power the brake lights.
At the brake switch, the circuit will have to be modded. I can't remember at the moment but I did document the change in my shop manual. If you want I can post a scan of it. PM if so.
At the brake switch, the circuit will have to be modded. I can't remember at the moment but I did document the change in my shop manual. If you want I can post a scan of it. PM if so.
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89corvettemann (05-22-2023)
05-02-2006, 12:53 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
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I have not looked at the wireing diagram for this but can't you just cut the wire for breaklight on one light and then cut the wire for turn signal on the other.
If there are double filiment bulbs already in both lights, that will mean that they are controlled by two different circuits or are the seperate filiments for parking lamp and break/direction?
If there are double filiment bulbs already in both lights, that will mean that they are controlled by two different circuits or are the seperate filiments for parking lamp and break/direction?
05-02-2006, 12:57 PM
#5
Team Owner
If I remember rightly, the use the 1157 bulb, right?
The complexity comes in that the tail light circuit might just be the signal circuit... or is it shared with the brake light?
Either way, there is some separation there.
Now, if the brake and tail light share, that's GREAT! They can continue to do so... if the signal is shared... yuck-o-matic.
The complexity comes in that the tail light circuit might just be the signal circuit... or is it shared with the brake light?
Either way, there is some separation there.
Now, if the brake and tail light share, that's GREAT! They can continue to do so... if the signal is shared... yuck-o-matic.
05-02-2006, 08:42 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by GRX
I've done it on my '85. An additional circuit needs to be added to the back. Bascially, a 12-14 gauge wire. It will power the brake lights.
At the brake switch, the circuit will have to be modded. I can't remember at the moment but I did document the change in my shop manual. If you want I can post a scan of it. PM if so.
At the brake switch, the circuit will have to be modded. I can't remember at the moment but I did document the change in my shop manual. If you want I can post a scan of it. PM if so.
05-02-2006, 08:46 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by bogus
there are kits available... they include the harnessing required.
check Ecklers... the problem? EXPENSIVE.
check Ecklers... the problem? EXPENSIVE.
and so the shipping costs to have that sent here express will make it WAAAAY too expensive. 
I just wanted something temporary so I could pass inspection, then go from there.
I don't see what the problem is, don't the indicators operate independantly if the brake isn't engaged!
Thanks for your replies guys
05-02-2006, 09:09 PM
#9
Racer
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Cut the white wire at the br. switch near the pedal and insulate the "live" end.
Join a wire to the 3rd brake light feed(blue) at the rear of the car and lead it to the rear lights.
Find which tail lamp flasher wires come from the front of the car in the main rear lighting loom (yellow on lh, green, I think, on the rh). Do not touch these wires, as they will be the designated flashers.
Cut the same colored wire going to the other lamp. Now the flasher has been disconnected from those lamps.
On the lamps with the flasher wiring from the loom, cut the brown wires. These two lamps need to have the amber lenses fitted, and you now have two ADR approved flashers.
Take the new long wire from the 3rd brake light and join it to the other lamps from which you cut the flasher bridge wire.
This now becomes the new red independent/designated brake lamp with tail lamp.
Remember to insulate the "live" flasher (yellow and green, I think) and tail light (brown) wires that were cut. They could touch the frame and blow fuses.
If it was me, I would solder all joins with heat shrink.
No globe/bulb change is needed.
I am sure that this will get you thru roadworthy....good luck.
Join a wire to the 3rd brake light feed(blue) at the rear of the car and lead it to the rear lights.
Find which tail lamp flasher wires come from the front of the car in the main rear lighting loom (yellow on lh, green, I think, on the rh). Do not touch these wires, as they will be the designated flashers.
Cut the same colored wire going to the other lamp. Now the flasher has been disconnected from those lamps.
On the lamps with the flasher wiring from the loom, cut the brown wires. These two lamps need to have the amber lenses fitted, and you now have two ADR approved flashers.
Take the new long wire from the 3rd brake light and join it to the other lamps from which you cut the flasher bridge wire.
This now becomes the new red independent/designated brake lamp with tail lamp.
Remember to insulate the "live" flasher (yellow and green, I think) and tail light (brown) wires that were cut. They could touch the frame and blow fuses.
If it was me, I would solder all joins with heat shrink.
No globe/bulb change is needed.
I am sure that this will get you thru roadworthy....good luck.
05-03-2006, 01:53 AM
#11
Team Owner
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St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Simple, third brake lite wire is on the right kick panel below the fuses. Use this for the trigger relay. Add brake relay at the rear hatch latch area. That will give brake lite power to trigger relay. Use power from antenna relay. Cut the brake wire from the turn signal switch at the steering column base. Now you have just isolated the brake circuit from the turn signal circuit.
05-03-2006, 04:41 AM
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks so much for your help. I really do appreciate the time you have taken in helping me, a total stranger, on the other side of the globe! Im sure this information will be very useful to alof of people who need to do the same thing in the future (ARCHIVES).
I will read through your posts carefully, hopefully I can work it out!
I will read through your posts carefully, hopefully I can work it out!
05-03-2006, 06:56 AM
#13
Le Mans Master
Call Corvette QLD and see if they have the stuff you need there (you know my ph number and email address if you need any help there). Id say if you took it to a "good" auto electrician they could do it quick enough if they can get to the wiring easy enough.
05-03-2006, 06:57 AM
#14
Racer
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There is more than one way to skin a cat...but there is only one way to stop your amber flasher lamps lighting up when you turn the parkers/headlights on...cut the brown lighting wires that go to the "new" flasher lamps....
05-03-2006, 01:25 PM
#15
- 1986 Original Owner -
Originally Posted by CorvAdel
Cut the white wire at the br. switch near the pedal and insulate the "live" end.
Join a wire to the 3rd brake light feed(blue) at the rear of the car and lead it to the rear lights.
Find which tail lamp flasher wires come from the front of the car in the main rear lighting loom (yellow on lh, green, I think, on the rh). Do not touch these wires, as they will be the designated flashers.
Cut the same colored wire going to the other lamp. Now the flasher has been disconnected from those lamps.
On the lamps with the flasher wiring from the loom, cut the brown wires. These two lamps need to have the amber lenses fitted, and you now have two ADR approved flashers.
Take the new long wire from the 3rd brake light and join it to the other lamps from which you cut the flasher bridge wire.
This now becomes the new red independent/designated brake lamp with tail lamp.
Remember to insulate the "live" flasher (yellow and green, I think) and tail light (brown) wires that were cut. They could touch the frame and blow fuses.
If it was me, I would solder all joins with heat shrink.
No globe/bulb change is needed.
I am sure that this will get you thru roadworthy....good luck.
Join a wire to the 3rd brake light feed(blue) at the rear of the car and lead it to the rear lights.
Find which tail lamp flasher wires come from the front of the car in the main rear lighting loom (yellow on lh, green, I think, on the rh). Do not touch these wires, as they will be the designated flashers.
Cut the same colored wire going to the other lamp. Now the flasher has been disconnected from those lamps.
On the lamps with the flasher wiring from the loom, cut the brown wires. These two lamps need to have the amber lenses fitted, and you now have two ADR approved flashers.
Take the new long wire from the 3rd brake light and join it to the other lamps from which you cut the flasher bridge wire.
This now becomes the new red independent/designated brake lamp with tail lamp.
Remember to insulate the "live" flasher (yellow and green, I think) and tail light (brown) wires that were cut. They could touch the frame and blow fuses.
If it was me, I would solder all joins with heat shrink.
No globe/bulb change is needed.
I am sure that this will get you thru roadworthy....good luck.
Completely. One other thing that may come up is that your flash rate for turn signals may change due to the load change caused by the removal of two lamps from the circuit. If this is a problem, replace the turn flasher with the same part as your hazard flasher.
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prez1967 (01-17-2022)
05-03-2006, 08:45 PM
#17
Racer
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Originally Posted by Casethecorvetteman
Dont forget the front lights used for indicators cant be on all the time with the headlights either.
And for the record, the front side marker needs to be changed, too..
But, the original question was about the rears...
05-04-2006, 01:44 AM
#18
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by CorvAdel
Yep Case..quite correct. Hence the need to fit auxillary parker lamps, separate from the flasher.....with the associated wiring mods...
And for the record, the front side marker needs to be changed, too..
But, the original question was about the rears...
And for the record, the front side marker needs to be changed, too..
But, the original question was about the rears...
05-24-2010, 03:25 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
anyone know if ecklers even sells the harness anymore? If so, how much is it approximately? I'm actually looking to switch from European tail lights back to stock and I'm trying to get an idea of what the full setup cost new. So far, $600 for just the lights without the harness....
Anyone know if it's easy to go back to stock?
Anyone know if it's easy to go back to stock?
06-16-2018, 12:27 AM
#20
Cut the white wire at the br. switch near the pedal and insulate the "live" end.
Join a wire to the 3rd brake light feed(blue) at the rear of the car and lead it to the rear lights.
Find which tail lamp flasher wires come from the front of the car in the main rear lighting loom (yellow on lh, green, I think, on the rh). Do not touch these wires, as they will be the designated flashers.
Cut the same colored wire going to the other lamp. Now the flasher has been disconnected from those lamps.
On the lamps with the flasher wiring from the loom, cut the brown wires. These two lamps need to have the amber lenses fitted, and you now have two ADR approved flashers.
Take the new long wire from the 3rd brake light and join it to the other lamps from which you cut the flasher bridge wire.
This now becomes the new red independent/designated brake lamp with tail lamp.
Remember to insulate the "live" flasher (yellow and green, I think) and tail light (brown) wires that were cut. They could touch the frame and blow fuses.
If it was me, I would solder all joins with heat shrink.
No globe/bulb change is needed.
I am sure that this will get you thru roadworthy....good luck.
Join a wire to the 3rd brake light feed(blue) at the rear of the car and lead it to the rear lights.
Find which tail lamp flasher wires come from the front of the car in the main rear lighting loom (yellow on lh, green, I think, on the rh). Do not touch these wires, as they will be the designated flashers.
Cut the same colored wire going to the other lamp. Now the flasher has been disconnected from those lamps.
On the lamps with the flasher wiring from the loom, cut the brown wires. These two lamps need to have the amber lenses fitted, and you now have two ADR approved flashers.
Take the new long wire from the 3rd brake light and join it to the other lamps from which you cut the flasher bridge wire.
This now becomes the new red independent/designated brake lamp with tail lamp.
Remember to insulate the "live" flasher (yellow and green, I think) and tail light (brown) wires that were cut. They could touch the frame and blow fuses.
If it was me, I would solder all joins with heat shrink.
No globe/bulb change is needed.
I am sure that this will get you thru roadworthy....good luck.
Simple, third brake lite wire is on the right kick panel below the fuses. Use this for the trigger relay. Add brake relay at the rear hatch latch area. That will give brake lite power to trigger relay. Use power from antenna relay. Cut the brake wire from the turn signal switch at the steering column base. Now you have just isolated the brake circuit from the turn signal circuit.