Warning: To everyone lowering their vettes...
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,931
Likes: 3
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Originally Posted by wht_slvr_86
if i lower the rear only will it be too obvious?
or is it no even worth it?
or is it no even worth it?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 66
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Originally Posted by wht_slvr_86
if i lower the rear only will it be too obvious?
or is it no even worth it?
or is it no even worth it?
It all comes down to your opinion really, you can lower the back as much as you like and its up to you weather you like the looks or practicality of it or not, but in terms of handling, i would reckon youd want the front slightly lower 
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 66
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Ok, i just looked at the pics of your car(looks quite nice by the way, i like it ), i reckon you may be able to drop the rear about 1/2 an inch without it looking too bad, you can always revert any changes to the rear very easily if youre not happy with them
), i reckon you may be able to drop the rear about 1/2 an inch without it looking too bad, you can always revert any changes to the rear very easily if youre not happy with them
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
Originally Posted by 87vette
So how much harder is it cut these pads compared to the ones that sit on the middle of the spring? those were a bitch!
Those were easy compared to the rubber on the spring perch.
Mike
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
Originally Posted by conv90
The pads you are referring are the triangular ones at the very ends of the springs at the lower control arm??
When you say 'cutting 1/4" ' are you referring to the thickness of these triangular pads?
Mine (a 90 vert ) are not thik more that an half inch....
So to cut 1/4" i have to cut in half the original thick?
Thanks
-Beppe-
When you say 'cutting 1/4" ' are you referring to the thickness of these triangular pads?
Mine (a 90 vert ) are not thik more that an half inch....
So to cut 1/4" i have to cut in half the original thick?
Thanks
-Beppe-
MIke
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,111
Likes: 1
From: My redneck of the woods louisiana
Originally Posted by Casethecorvetteman
Ok, i just looked at the pics of your car(looks quite nice by the way, i like it ), i reckon you may be able to drop the rear about 1/2 an inch without it looking too bad, you can always revert any changes to the rear very easily if youre not happy with them
), i reckon you may be able to drop the rear about 1/2 an inch without it looking too bad, you can always revert any changes to the rear very easily if youre not happy with themthanks for the compliment you can't tell by the pics but the car is about a 50 footer
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 804
Likes: 5
From: Fresno CA
When I first looked at that photo something didn't seem right too me but it's been a few years since I last lowered a C4 and now after dropping my lower control arms to replace some ball joint boots I realized what was wrong...the wedges are supposed to be glued to the bottom side of the crossmember not the top of the spring..that's definetely a problem. I looked at my wedges today that were installed at Guldstrand back in `86 and they still look fine...the've never come loose or let the spring rub in 60k miles..Guldstrand were the guys that originally developed those and then everybody ripped the design of them off over the years and I guess that's okay but they should include correct installation instructions with them...you need to glue them to the crossmember not the spring and you should be okay..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 806
Likes: 0
From: Langley B.C.
I was going to put coilovers up front..but this thread got me thinking so...I heated the steel caps on the top of the rubber pads on top of my spring,that released the epoxy or whatever adhesive holds it on the rubber and they popped off.Then I used a razor knife and sliced the rubber(while pulling the loose end away from the knife with pliers)away from the stock upper pads.Then I marked the rubber to 1/2 inch and using a belt sander took them down to the final mark.Took all of 45 minutes.Used a belt sander and coarse paper and it worked the same on the ends.I dont see the point of taking all the stock rubber off only to glue more on when you can leave the original and just trim it.
I think you could even epoxy the stock metal caps back on to the modified pads if you felt it necessary.Just my experience if it helps anyone..
I think you could even epoxy the stock metal caps back on to the modified pads if you felt it necessary.Just my experience if it helps anyone..
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by eguyett1985
the wedges are supposed to be glued to the bottom side of the crossmember not the top of the spring..that's definetely a problem.
That's not true. Whether or not its the best way to do it, the instructions say glue to the spring. Otherwise you're putting a very localized stress on the spring.
http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/h...ruct/32309.htm
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
That's not true. Whether or not its the best way to do it, the instructions say glue to the spring. Otherwise you're putting a very localized stress on the spring.
http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/h...ruct/32309.htm
http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/h...ruct/32309.htm
my kit stated to glue the wedges to the spring too!Speaking of stress/wear on the spring I remember some threads where a member told people to lower the front without a lowering kit. I believe his method was to leave the spring loose in the mounting brackets where the spring would ride against the cross member w/o wedges. I thought he would have chimed in by now!
Mike
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 66
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Originally Posted by aboatguy
I believe his method was to leave the spring loose in the mounting brackets where the spring would ride against the cross member w/o wedges. I thought he would have chimed in by now!
Mike
Mike
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 6,252
Likes: 2
From: Silicon Valley Kalifornia
If the wedges had a larger 'footprint' to glue onto the spring the chance of movement would be less....
Also the glue preferably would be RTV. The spring is in constant flex/movement and something rigid such as epoxy won't remain glued for long. The glue needs to 'move' with the spring surface.
Also the glue preferably would be RTV. The spring is in constant flex/movement and something rigid such as epoxy won't remain glued for long. The glue needs to 'move' with the spring surface.
Last edited by GRX; May 6, 2006 at 10:58 AM.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by aboatguy
Speaking of stress/wear on the spring I remember some threads where a member told people to lower the front without a lowering kit. I believe his method was to leave the spring loose in the mounting brackets where the spring would ride against the cross member w/o wedges. I thought he would have chimed in by now!
Mike
Mike
Maybe his spring broke and put him off a cliff somewhere.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Central Coaster, I just got my new lowering kit today, I did not buy the clamp kit from Mid America the first time and you state that you think this is why the wedges came off. Could you possibly post some pics of your install this time with the clamp? It's been so long since I lowered mine I can't remember where the MAD clamps go. I do still have my aluminum spacers so I am going to order the clamp kit from MAD now.
Sorry to be a bother.
Sorry to be a bother.
