I have had my 87 sitting around for FIVE years now and am trying to get it started here soon. I siphoned off as much of the gas as i could out of the tank and am using it in my lawn-mower...It seems fine. But i can't get the last little bit out(about 1gal. or less) and am wondering if it would realy hurt anything if i mixed in about 5-10gallons of fresh gash and a little stabilizer? Any-one ever do any-thing like that? It seems like the new filter,sock,pump,lines,injectors, and all should be be ok... or am i kidding my-self? I just realy don't want to remove the tank and risk messing up anything i already did back there.

And on fluid...What about the transfluid left in after getting the tranny back from rebuild? Will it still be good considering that it has never run under the car?

What kind of Coolant is there available now...I remember reading about some kind of special anti-freeze developed to eliminate aluminum corosion but can't find the info again when searching(but found some others that got confusing). Should i look into putting a ground strap on the radiator since i went to a very large brass and copper one? I was given a weird cap with a sacrifice diode on it... Is that thing any good?

And how long is oil (durra blend) good for when sitting in a new engine not running?...I have pulled out the drill and pumped it up a couple of times though. How long sould the parts stay coated doing that since most have OLD break-in lube on them from building the egine in 02?I put the oil in last fall.
Any-thing else that i mighta missed????The rear-end oil is new+posi.
Thanks for any imput.

 

don't use stabilizer--many report problems who have used it for short periods when nothing added would have ben ok.

put a couple gallons of new gas in the tank...remove the schrader valve from the test connection on the fuel rail and attach a hose with a hose clamp, long enuf to go to an empty 5 gal can...jumper 12v from battery thru a 5A fuse to the ''g'' terminal (lower level, furthest to left) on the ALDL connector to activate the in-tank pump...AS SOON AS THE FUEL STOPS COMING FROM THE HOSE, UNHOOK THE JUMPER, do not run the pump dry.

trans fluid seems to be good for several years in storage...doing a ''disconnect-the -cooling-line-at-the-radiator'' flush after afew miles on a rebuild is a very good idea anyway tho.

most anti-freeze sold today has anti-corrosives added, read the label closely all over, if it doesn't say anti-corrosive or sake for alum on it someplace, read the brand next to it on the shelf.

oil is hydroscopic and absorbs water from the air....never change for your beater is ok cause engine heat does drive off moisture, but every 6 months is better for your baby--use the drain oil for your beater.

 

Oil does not have a "use by" date.

It will be good indefinitely.

Brake fluid is hydroscopic. Motor oil is not.



Larry
code5coupe

 

I have to disagree about the oil....change it! I would bet money after sitting that long you've probably got alot of condensation in there, one reason we watch oil temps is to make sure they get up to temps that will purge any moisture, and that's on cars we are running frequently.
There will probably be some debate about condensation in there...but it's damn sure not worth chancing the damage it could cause.

And, I've used Heat, an additive for fuel to help remove any water in the tank..I think it's also a stabilizer, I've used it for years without any problems.

 

I never heard of oil being Hydroscopic, either, however the additive package will break down with time. The good news is most engine builders want you to use non-detergent oil for the initial break in anyway, and you should change the oil right after the initial fire up anyway, and again at 500 mi. (to get that engine assembly lube, etc. out of the motor asap, there have been instances where it clogged up the oil filter and ruined a new engine. They're rare, but it has happened. I suspect there was an awful lot of excess assembly lube in those motors, but if yours has been sitting that long inside the motor, it may have solidified somewhat, and not want to disolve into the oil. I wouldn't worry excessively, but I would keep a close eye on the oil pressure till you change it (right after initial cam break in).

 

Thanks. I was leaning that way myself since i wanted to use synth and reg mixed for break-in then switch to Mobil after. I used the red liquid pre-lube on everything cam-up and the machine shop flushed all their stuff out when they spin tested to 6000rpm on the bottom end to verify ballance. I didn't realy think 8-9months in a sealed garage would do much for short term use...Thought it better to hear others experience before deciding.
Thank-you all. Has ANY-ONE out there ever tried a copper & brass radiator? I just got a GOOD deal on it and never want plastic again...I must 6-8 cracked tank ones sitting around waiting to go to recycle.
I just don't want any suprises like the shunken seals on a holly dbl pumper many years ago...almost lost a car to that. So, please keep coming with your experiences.