Q about Diff. removal procedures.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,190
Likes: 117
From: San Antonio Texas
Q about Diff. removal procedures.
I'm removing my Dana 44 from my 96LT4 for service. When you loosen the C-beam how do you support the tail end of the engine/trans assy.? Right now I have a piece of angle iron across the front legs of the lift and the rear of the transmission is resting on that. I was wondering how other people have done it. I don't want to damage the shifter or boot on the top side by letting it fall too far down.
Also, when the rear wheels are off the ground, is enough tension off the spring to remove the end bolts, or do you have to support the spring ends (still too much tension) before removing the bolts? I'm wondering how far down the spring ends will go before it relaxes. I don't even want to get smacked by it if it is still loaded.
Also, when the rear wheels are off the ground, is enough tension off the spring to remove the end bolts, or do you have to support the spring ends (still too much tension) before removing the bolts? I'm wondering how far down the spring ends will go before it relaxes. I don't even want to get smacked by it if it is still loaded.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
If you have the base model springs, you may need to compress them a bit to get the bolt started. You might even be able to do it by hand though.
The stiffer Z51 springs have less arch to them.
I think a 2x6 laid across your lift, with some wood spacers would be enough to support the trans. Remember, the further back you support it, the less strong of a support you need.
The stiffer Z51 springs have less arch to them.
I think a 2x6 laid across your lift, with some wood spacers would be enough to support the trans. Remember, the further back you support it, the less strong of a support you need.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,477
Likes: 4
From: Florida 33460
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
If you have the base model springs, you may need to compress them a bit to get the bolt started. You might even be able to do it by hand though.
The stiffer Z51 springs have less arch to them.
I think a 2x6 laid across your lift, with some wood spacers would be enough to support the trans. Remember, the further back you support it, the less strong of a support you need.
The stiffer Z51 springs have less arch to them.
I think a 2x6 laid across your lift, with some wood spacers would be enough to support the trans. Remember, the further back you support it, the less strong of a support you need.
The pic video is really cool!!!!!!!!
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 377
Likes: 1
From: Redmond Wa
Originally Posted by bowtie racing
I havent ever seen better answer like this!!!!
The pic video is really cool!!!!!!!!
The pic video is really cool!!!!!!!!
That is way too cool.When I pulled my D44 I had to jack the knuckle a little bit to get the spring pressure off before I could loosen the castle nut. Same thing when I put the thing back together. There is not a ton of pressure left on the spring when the tires are off the ground, but just enough so you can't get the nut on or off without a little bit of jacking.
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by thirdtimevetteowner
Is there any way of playing that super cool video in slow motion?
Le Mans Master
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From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,190
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From: San Antonio Texas
Guts Update. Got it out!
With help from a couple of friends, one with a lift & another with good hands, we got it pulled last nite. Driver side yoke is OK with recomended .005" end clearance between cross shaft & axle tip. Passenger side still had the clip on it but the clearance was .110" Had a pair of snap ring removers from work that made removing the stub axles quick. Pass side looked like it had been machined off and the cross shaft didn't have a mark on it! Talked to a local Vette axle & drive shaft guy and he said "That's the way they normally wear out". He's got a replacement located a state or two away for $175.00 and after spending the day looking around town and a visit to a machine shop that had a $200 minimum charge, it looks like time to give the man a call back. I guess these Dana 44's, and parts for them, are hard to come by.
P.S. Thanks to all who responded & Central Coaster....That's a really cool video. Except for the license plate and mufflers, that even looks like my car!
Had a pair of snap ring removers from work that made removing the stub axles quick. Pass side looked like it had been machined off and the cross shaft didn't have a mark on it! Talked to a local Vette axle & drive shaft guy and he said "That's the way they normally wear out". He's got a replacement located a state or two away for $175.00 and after spending the day looking around town and a visit to a machine shop that had a $200 minimum charge, it looks like time to give the man a call back. I guess these Dana 44's, and parts for them, are hard to come by.P.S. Thanks to all who responded & Central Coaster....That's a really cool video. Except for the license plate and mufflers, that even looks like my car!
Last edited by Klondike; May 24, 2006 at 06:52 PM.