Clicky U-Joints
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 0
From: Where all good things come to die. Detroit
Clicky U-Joints
Hey everyone,
I know that the search button is my friend, but this is a different question. The U-joints in the '86 are starting to click, but its only when I accelerate quickly. Its also only on one side. Since U-joints are a major job, and I will probably put them off for a while, how much longer do I have before they break? When I finally get around to replacing them, should I just have someone else do them, and how much will it cost?
medic
I know that the search button is my friend, but this is a different question. The U-joints in the '86 are starting to click, but its only when I accelerate quickly. Its also only on one side. Since U-joints are a major job, and I will probably put them off for a while, how much longer do I have before they break? When I finally get around to replacing them, should I just have someone else do them, and how much will it cost?
medic
Pro
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 691
Likes: 0
From: Wayne NJ
Once my U-joints started clicking it was about one week before I was told to fix it. Don't let a dealer do it !! Read my posts about my experince.I replaced all 4 half shaft ujoints. It should cost you no more then $700 including labor and parts. Good luck
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,838
Likes: 341
From: Database Error Indiana
U joints are cheap and not hard to replace. Click the link. http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
Scorp did this for you.
Scorp did this for you.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
Originally Posted by hip
If you have a vise you can replace all 6 in an afternoon look at a manual no big deal, well worth buying a vice & save $500 labor
its no big deal, but to drop the drive shaft, the manual says to remove the c-channel brace (from the transmission to the differential) - WTF GM 
! i droped the driveshaft and saw where the interference was - took a die grinder and ground away about .125 x 1.5 inches of some sheetmetal substructure near the differential. driveshaft came out without removing the c-channel. hell, it took me the better part of an afternoon to jack up the car and remove the exhaust - i guess the older i get, the slower i get... 
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
What Joe C said. I did mine as a part of an engine/tranny swap so I can't comment on time but U-joints are not rocket science and can be done by anyone with reasonable skills and tools.
Medic, I don't think I would wait too long. The results of a U-joint breaking at 60 MPH is not pretty.
Medic, I don't think I would wait too long. The results of a U-joint breaking at 60 MPH is not pretty.
Last edited by Muffin; May 24, 2006 at 10:23 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 173
Likes: 1
From: Rumford Rhode Island
Originally Posted by Medicman55
Hey everyone,
I know that the search button is my friend, but this is a different question. The U-joints in the '86 are starting to click, but its only when I accelerate quickly. Its also only on one side. Since U-joints are a major job, and I will probably put them off for a while, how much longer do I have before they break? When I finally get around to replacing them, should I just have someone else do them, and how much will it cost?
medic
I know that the search button is my friend, but this is a different question. The U-joints in the '86 are starting to click, but its only when I accelerate quickly. Its also only on one side. Since U-joints are a major job, and I will probably put them off for a while, how much longer do I have before they break? When I finally get around to replacing them, should I just have someone else do them, and how much will it cost?
medic
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Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
Originally Posted by GlennS87
I recently had all my u-joints replaced using Spicer's, and I am still getting the clicvking that you described. It's driving me nuts. Next up new ball joints and control arm bushings.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,354
Likes: 2,279
From: Central Maryland
If this is truly a U-joint noise, I'd recommend that you do not delay the repair. Pole-vaulting a Corvette on its driveshaft can be as dangerous and destructive as a windmilling half-shaft, and a U-joint that fails can lead to either of these nightmares, depending upon which joint lets go.
Be well,
SJW
Be well,
SJW
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 891
Likes: 18
From: Dayton Ohio
Originally Posted by SJW
Pole-vaulting a Corvette on its driveshaft can be as dangerous and destructive as a windmilling half-shaft, and a U-joint that fails can lead to either of these nightmares, depending upon which joint lets go.
Are there any documented cases of this happening?
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
From: Alpine California
Never seen a Corvette do it, but I have seen a '34' Ford pick up drag car do it up close. Also, there used to be a really ugly video of a SS/MP C3 running up and over both rear slicks immediately after launching on NOS's website, but haven't seen it (or their site, for that matter) in years.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
Originally Posted by CP5150
I have a clicking I think is comming from the drivers side. Brought it to the dealership twice while it was still under warranty.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,354
Likes: 2,279
From: Central Maryland
Originally Posted by quickcat
Are there any documented cases of this happening?
There is plenty of history of vehicles pole-vaulting when the front end of the prop shaft drops. This is why drive shaft loops exist. Can't say I know of any Corvettes doing it, but why would you take that risk with known-bad U-joints?
Be well,
SJW
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,838
Likes: 341
From: Database Error Indiana
Just a comment on main driveshaft u joints. The shaft stays on a nearly fixed plane. The trans does not move much and the pinion does not move much. The C beam limits this. For that reason these joints last nearly forever. The half shafts moves with every bump in the road, so they work very hard and dont last as long. My 2 cents.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi TX
I recently replaced the u-joints on the driver's side of my car. It was making some really ugly noises, grinding sounds, clicks, etc. I was quite startled by it and grounded the car until I found the cause.
This is what had happened to the end cap on the inboard u-joint. The needle bearings had been pulverized into dust, and the trunnion strap holding the u-joint down was loose....very loose. I was glad I decided to check it out, I was driving on borrowed time as it was. Took me about 2 days to get the parts and do the work. Scorps' tech article on the issue was extremely helpful.
This is what had happened to the end cap on the inboard u-joint. The needle bearings had been pulverized into dust, and the trunnion strap holding the u-joint down was loose....very loose. I was glad I decided to check it out, I was driving on borrowed time as it was. Took me about 2 days to get the parts and do the work. Scorps' tech article on the issue was extremely helpful.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 124
From: Reno/Sparks Nevada
Clicking has been covered many times on this forum.
The u-joints always seem to be the first area that members identify as being the problem and has been the problem on some cars.
Lubing the splines between the bearing assembly and the outboard universal joint yoke has solved the clicking problem and has been reported on this forum by members. This area gets rusty and for whatever reason causes a clicking sound. Lubing with anti-seize compound worked for me and others.
Art
The u-joints always seem to be the first area that members identify as being the problem and has been the problem on some cars.
Lubing the splines between the bearing assembly and the outboard universal joint yoke has solved the clicking problem and has been reported on this forum by members. This area gets rusty and for whatever reason causes a clicking sound. Lubing with anti-seize compound worked for me and others.
Art
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Thanks Mr Renoman
I have had the "clicking" U-joints also. I replaced all the U-joints with good spicers. They did need replacing on the half shafts. So I know that they are good. I had already replaced the rear bearings a couple of years back and had used anti-seize on the splines when I installed them. Read your above suggestion.
This morning I ripped into the rear end. I used plenty of anti-seize on the splines, REALLY COATED THEM. Put it all back together and NO CLICKING... GREAT
Thanks for your help and suggestion.
This morning I ripped into the rear end. I used plenty of anti-seize on the splines, REALLY COATED THEM. Put it all back together and NO CLICKING...
GREAT Thanks for your help and suggestion.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 0
From: Where all good things come to die. Detroit
I've been driving around, trying to lay off the U-joints since I havent had the time to replace them. I got to thinking about it, what would it take to replace a wheel bearing? I think that could possibly be what is making the clicking sound since the rear drivers side is the only thing that makes sound.
Medic
Medic