My 86 is acting up, and I am looking for a place to start...... When I go to start up the car it will do one of following things:

1. Click - Lights do not dim, and Security light is not lit.
2. Start to turn over and then stop
3. Start right up.
4. Combination of all of the above - Sometimes it will Click 3 or four times, and then start up.......

Where would be a good place to start to resolve this problem??????

 

did you check all of the connections??

 

I have chased the problem you are after all summer long on my 89 roadster, same exact problems, first new key no luck, then forum members said it was heat soak on starter, new starter, new positive cable,heat wrap for new starterand it seemed always that when the motor was cold it would start but still always got a click on solenoid when hot finally saw a forum who stated the facts about the vats and finally bought a vats bypass from Mid America$25 and installed it yesterday, so far this seems to be working great, its hot in Phoenix 112 yesterday and the car started all day yesterday in the heat so hopefully this helps. Go to your local auto store first thing and have your battery and charging system checked first befor you start this chase and make sure all connectors are clean. GOOD LUCK

:cheers:

 

Keep me updated on your starter problems, this is something that I really didn't want to dig into until I parked the car for the winter, but I think It is getting to the point where I need to start thinking about it......

 

Remove both battery cables and clean until bright including the battery terminals, then replace. If you hear the click coming from the center of your dash, then you are hearing the start enable relay and not the starter solenoid.
The start enable relay contacts may be worn out and 12 v is not getting to the starter solenoid. Measure the voltage on the s terminal (purple wire) to see if 12 v is getting to the starter solenoid with ign sw in start. Use a large screwdriver to jump between the two large bolts on the start solenoid. This jumps the start solenoid switch contacts and the starter motor should run. If so, replace the start solenoid. If there is 12 v on the batt cable on the starter, then check the battery ground. The battery neg terminal goes to a frame bolt next to the battery and a large braid goes from that bolt to the left rear head. Check connections for bright and tight. For the times when you try to crank and nothing happens, measure the resistance at the 2 pin connector at the base of the steering column under the carpet with the ign key in place. Unplug the 2 pin connector and measure the wires coming down the column, not the wires going towards passenger side. You should be able to measure the same resistance as your pellet. If it is very high (above 20k ohms) or infinity, then the contacts in your ign sw are worn and VATS doesn't see the right value resistance and won't turn on the start enable relay. New ign sw is required.
Also, when nothing happens, jump the clutch sw or if auto xmsn, jump the gear selector sw and try a start. These switches are in series with the start enable relay coil. You can jump the start enable relay contacts to see if they are the problem and if they are, replace the start enable relay. It is a bad idea to defeat the VATS by permanently jumping the start enable relay because your C4 can easily be stolen. The typical theft is done by bashing your column and jumping the ign sw. I personally know C4 owners that went to their car and found a broken window and column, but the car hadn't moved an inch.
99% of car thieves are too stupid to defeat VATS. Defeating VATS is just like epoxying a flashlight on your car when a headlight burns out. Keep your car in good repair, don't bypass it! :rolleyes: I am on my third ign sw because of the pellet contacts.

 

if it will start within 3 minutes after you tried the first time - it isn't vats. sometimes mine will go CLICK CLICK when I turn the key, and I've bypassed vats (Vats = keeps corvette owners from driving their cars, and makes theives laugh as they flatbed your car) so I know that's not it. In fa ct, it started after I replaced my starter - so I'm pointing my finger at the starter on this one.
VATS will click, but the starter click is MUCH louder.

 

VATS will allow 5 tries, then it shuts down for 6 minutes . Properly working VATS allows you to drive your car and prevents 99% of the car thieves out there to be successful. Your theft insurance protects you from flatbeds.

 

Interesting, mine allowed you ONE try, then shut down for 3 minutes.

 

Mid America also sells a vats bypass with a switch that you can have your vats or disengage it with a flip of a switch, cost $50

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