C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

air conditioner problem

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Old May 30, 2006 | 10:46 PM
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Default air conditioner problem

I'm new to the vette scene so I'll probably be posting a lot for a while.As for now my problem is that I justbought a 86 vette ,tara top, and when I got it the air blew cold; then one morning I ran the heater and since then the air won't blow. The fan blows but just hot air.any help appericiated.
Also have a problem with the dash. No visible function of the gas guage or speedometer.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 02:34 PM
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First thing is to determine if the AC compressor clutch is engaged when the AC is on. If your freon is low it will not engage because there is a pressure switch in the line next to the evaporator on the passenger side firewall that is designed to prevent the compressor clutch from engaging if the freon is low. To see if the compressor clutch is engaged with the AC on, look to see if the if the disk is turning on the very front of the compressor. Chances are that it is not and that you are low on freon.
Best thing to do if it is out of freon is to find the leak and fix it , then convert the system to R134a vs the R12 because you will pay dearly for R12 these days.
Fixing AC is not all that difficult but you do need to know what you are doing. If you have little knowlege of AC, it's best to have a pro fix it , especially if you have a leak.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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Congrats and welcome aboard
Here's some good reading from the bible
http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/AC%20Electronic.pdf
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Old May 31, 2006 | 04:54 PM
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The probability is a vibration leak in a hose fitting or other connection. The major reason than moved away from R12 was the vibration in cars created numerous minor leaks which when combined were the maor source of CFC leaks to atmosphere.
If there is not a major system leak, keep the R12. It's colder and a top up will be a lot less expensinve than an R134a convdersion. the time to do the conversion is when a major component needs replacement.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 09:54 PM
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Default Air conditioner problem

Had a mechanic look at car. He ran a pressure test on it and said it has too much freon in it. Said there is too much pressure. Could be a bad filter or a stopped up system. Will remove freon and replace filter and if that doesn't work then it will probably be the drier needs replaced. Does this sound reasonable?
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Old May 31, 2006 | 09:59 PM
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I don't know about that diagnosis. If it was blowing fine before then how did extra freon get into the system to give you too much pressure? I also have never heard of a filter in an airconditioning system. I may be wrong. I know a clogged orifice tube in some systes acts like a clogged filter but that usually means your compressor is eating itself up and making metal
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Old May 31, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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Ask him what the high side and low side pressures are. Just tell him you're curious.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 10:14 PM
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That's kind of what I was thinking IBNFE,.We checked a vaccum pod under the hood near the firewall and it was working as it should. Another under the dash seems to be working also. I wasw told by another person that due to the fact that it worked until I used the heater and then doesn't work after that there may be a door that changes from heat to cool may be stuck. Is this possible and if so where would it be located?
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Old May 31, 2006 | 10:17 PM
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I'm not sure what the low side was but I do remember the high side read around 350 because he said if it got to 400 it would ruin the compressor.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 08:29 AM
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Did you look through the info i posted ??
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 10:15 AM
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Thanks Agent86 This will be very helpful.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 11:49 AM
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Wow - 350 is a seriously plugged up system - if the compressor is still working, sounds like the Accumulator fell apart. It all needs to come apart and be flushed out. I'd replace the Condensor (along with Accumulator and Orifice) as it's nearly impossible to get everything out of it. Run Brake Parts Cleaner through all the lines - put a white cloth over one end and keep flushing until it's clean. Do the same for the Evaporator. Note, if it reaches 400 psi, a high pressure switch will open and cut power to the compressor - at least you hope it does, otherwise you can blow a big hole in the hood.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 12:02 PM
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Thanks Guys for all the helpful information, problem solved!!!
Temperature door was stuck.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 01:02 PM
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Not if the high side is 350 psi! I'd recheck operating pressures.
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 06:22 AM
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Default To Agent 86 Thanks !!!

AGENT 86 THAAAAAAAAANNNNKS !!! for the Airco and Vacuum Diagram !!! I have been looking high west and wild for what you posted !! I need to seriously get into my vacuum and climate controls on my 88' Very much appreciated !!!

And all of the other contributors to the forum this is a graet place to get info with just a little digging... again Thanks !!! One big ATTA-BOY
and I owe you one !!!

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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by rgdavis
AGENT 86 THAAAAAAAAANNNNKS !!! for the Airco and Vacuum Diagram !!! I have been looking high west and wild for what you posted !! I need to seriously get into my vacuum and climate controls on my 88' Very much appreciated !!!

And all of the other contributors to the forum this is a graet place to get info with just a little digging... again Thanks !!! One big ATTA-BOY
and I owe you one !!!

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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by AthensVette
That's kind of what I was thinking IBNFE,.We checked a vaccum pod under the hood near the firewall and it was working as it should. Another under the dash seems to be working also. I wasw told by another person that due to the fact that it worked until I used the heater and then doesn't work after that there may be a door that changes from heat to cool may be stuck. Is this possible and if so where would it be located?
I am going with that answer: I have this problem. If I leave it on cool or heat, all is well. Trying to switch from one to the other takes a while with several on/off cycles. The problem first arose after I changed the heater core. It is just too much work to drop the heater box again.
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by george4
I am going with that answer: I have this problem. If I leave it on cool or heat, all is well. Trying to switch from one to the other takes a while with several on/off cycles. The problem first arose after I changed the heater core. It is just too much work to drop the heater box again.
My vette is an 86 so to solve the problem this is what I did.
There is the box on the firewall where the air conditioner hoses enter,
on that box is an electrical connection. Unplug the connections-remove three screws and remove the apparatus that the wires plugged into.With a flashlight look into the box and you will see the door that moves from side to side-changing from heat to cool. I used a coat hanger cut to fit and made a hook on one end and put it against the door(door pushed to the pasenger side) then flexed the hanger to the other side. It holds it open and I have a cool interior. When winter comes I'll just remove the coathanger and the door can be moved to the other side and I'll have heat.
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by AthensVette
My vette is an 86 so to solve the problem this is what I did.
There is the box on the firewall where the air conditioner hoses enter,
on that box is an electrical connection. Unplug the connections-remove three screws and remove the apparatus that the wires plugged into.With a flashlight look into the box and you will see the door that moves from side to side-changing from heat to cool. I used a coat hanger cut to fit and made a hook on one end and put it against the door(door pushed to the pasenger side) then flexed the hanger to the other side. It holds it open and I have a cool interior. When winter comes I'll just remove the coathanger and the door can be moved to the other side and I'll have heat.
Thanks, I will try this the next time it gets stuck the wrong way.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by SunCr
Not if the high side is 350 psi! I'd recheck operating pressures.
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