96 window regulator Q's
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Tucson AZ
96 window regulator Q's
Well just spent the long weekend rebuilding the rear suspension, and on the new suspensions maiden voyage to work on Monday the driver side window refused to roll up. There was a bang or pop sound, and then it just stayed there. Took the door apart, and I have verified that the motor is turning, but the little gearset integral to the motor housing seems to have failed internally (motor is spinning, but the little exposed gear that turns the large cog on the regulator is not).
Here are the questions: How much play is there supposed to be in the regulator itself? The little round sliders that ride in the C-channel tracks can rock in the track enough to allow the window to rock fore to aft like an inch and a half. That don't seem right. For that matter, the little nylon "sliders" in the regulator tracks look like "wheels", but they don't turn. I know the motor is bad, but if the regulator is bad I will buy the whole thing and save a little labor on the motor R&R since I have no idea how to replace the 3 rivets holding the motor to the regulator.
Anybody know how these things are supposed to work?
Here are the questions: How much play is there supposed to be in the regulator itself? The little round sliders that ride in the C-channel tracks can rock in the track enough to allow the window to rock fore to aft like an inch and a half. That don't seem right. For that matter, the little nylon "sliders" in the regulator tracks look like "wheels", but they don't turn. I know the motor is bad, but if the regulator is bad I will buy the whole thing and save a little labor on the motor R&R since I have no idea how to replace the 3 rivets holding the motor to the regulator.
Anybody know how these things are supposed to work?
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: Ma.
[ I know the motor is bad, but if the regulator is bad I will buy the whole thing and save a little labor on the motor R&R since I have no idea how to replace the 3 rivets holding the motor to the regulator.
I just replaced my pass side about 2months ago. Its best to replace the whole thing now. I had it done at a shop and it cost me $380.00 including the part, (279 bucks). If you do it yourself, you will have to drill out the three rivets I believe. Oh, and one bolt is real tricky to get out also. I was told these motors and regulaters can be quite a problem with the c-4s from the guy that did mine, but it only took him about 90 minutes to install it. Hope this helps.
I just replaced my pass side about 2months ago. Its best to replace the whole thing now. I had it done at a shop and it cost me $380.00 including the part, (279 bucks). If you do it yourself, you will have to drill out the three rivets I believe. Oh, and one bolt is real tricky to get out also. I was told these motors and regulaters can be quite a problem with the c-4s from the guy that did mine, but it only took him about 90 minutes to install it. Hope this helps.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 763
Likes: 0
From: pa
just replaced wole pas mech on 88 with used from ebay ther is alot of slop on rolers i THINK this is normal in my case motor good mech broke you can buy new motor on ebay for 49 it cmes with screws to replace rivetts you ground off old motor and yes rolers are supposed to turn jusr clean and grease every thing
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Tucson AZ
Thanks for the info guys. Those "rollers" are actually supposed to turn? Mine are stuck real good then - I tried to get them to roll using the tip of some needle nose pliers and it was just scraping plastic off the side of the roller w/o any roll whatsoever. I have a hard time using a used unit off of Ebay as the gold standard of how these things are supposed to work, but it is a hands on account of another regulator. It would be cool if anyone has inspected a new regulator before installing it . . .
