C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

A/C help

Old Jun 5, 2006 | 06:46 PM
  #1  
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Default A/C help

i just bought a new compressor and receiver for my 84 corvette and i was wondering how many cans of refrigerant is needed to fill my system and how many things of oil i should buy.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 06:57 PM
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It depends on the size of the can but in general 2 small cans at the most. Get the r134 with the oil already mixxed in. You can get a gauge at any parts store and you really should use that. Some are inexpensive but will better than not using a gauge, they will say need charging, full, and overfull. Remember to much freon will make you a/c system hot or other problems, this is a case where to much can be a bad idea. Be carefull when using the freon as it will freeze your eyeballs instantly. Where glasses and keep all freon off of you. Good luck....G
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:05 PM
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Depends on the gas - the fill is listed on the Blower Motor Housing - most R12 Vettes are 2.25 lbs (3 12 ounce cans) which should be reduced by about 20% if you're switching to R134 - so 2 cans of R134 and a tad of another should be about right. www.ackits.com has a chart where you can get the factory fill specs.

The oil charge is 8 ozs. Add it separately if you want long life. Drain whatever came in the new compressor and dump in 4 ozs. Turn the shaft a dozen or so times in one direction and then in the other. Drain and repeat; then put in 4 ozs. of fresh oil. Put the other 4 ozs in a new accumulator. That will ensure a good supply of oil when you start it up. (Start it up without any oil and your new compressor will immediately seize.) Pull a vacuum and let that vacuum pull in the 1st can (or as much as it will suck out of it). Jump the low pressure switch harness with a paperclip, start the engine and prop the throttle so that it's running at about 1500 rpms, get the main fan running (which on the '84 I believe it does once a/c is commanded) and turn the a/c controls to max. Let the system pull in the balance of the charge monitoring the high side until the pressure is about 2.2 to 2.5 times the temperature of the air across the condensor (so if it's 80 degrees at the condensor, you want to think about stopping once you see 175 to 200 psi on your high side gage. And with a bottom feeder like the Vette, even with main fan running - condensor air temp is usually about 10 degrees hotter than ambient).

When you're done filling it up, plug in the low pressure switch harness and with the a/c still on max, disconnect the blower motor. The low side will drop and the low pressure switch should open cutting power to the compressor clutch. Note that pressure. For R12, it should be 25 psi; for R134 22.5 psi. There is an adjustment screw between the low pressure switch terminals. Turning it clockwise will raise the cutoff threshold; counterclockwise will reduce it. Most need no more than 1/2to a full turn in one direction or the other to get it right, but you may have to unplug the harness, turn the screw a bit and then plug it back in a couple of times to get it right.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:10 PM
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Nicely done!!! I admire a man who knows his stuff!
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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Will the R134 recharge cans work on the R12 compressor/cars?

I did not know you could mix the two Freons.

kdf1986
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 11:12 PM
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Thanks for all the help. Should have my A/C up and running tomorrow.. No more hot Carolina sun for me
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kdf1986
Will the R134 recharge cans work on the R12 compressor/cars?

I did not know you could mix the two Freons.

kdf1986
Sure - compressor, in and of itself doesn't matter, BUT you can't just dump it in. As I've posted many times, read what the pros recommend in the FAQ Section on the Board at www.ackits.com - Otherwise, try: http://www.epa.gov/spdpublc/snap/ref...s/chiller.html
You'll then know all there is to know.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 12:02 PM
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Thanks for the tips on the paper. The EPA.GOV paper was pretty good in explaining some of the problems and regulatory issues.

I think that due to the age of my car, 1986, and that I want this done right, and working for the upcoming summer months, I will leave it to a professional shop to make the change.

thanks for the links.

kdf
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SunCr
Depends on the gas - the fill is listed on the Blower Motor Housing - most R12 Vettes are 2.25 lbs (3 12 ounce cans) which should be reduced by about 20% if you're switching to R134 - so 2 cans of R134 and a tad of another should be about right. www.ackits.com has a chart where you can get the factory fill specs.

The oil charge is 8 ozs. Add it separately if you want long life. Drain whatever came in the new compressor and dump in 4 ozs. Turn the shaft a dozen or so times in one direction and then in the other. Drain and repeat; then put in 4 ozs. of fresh oil. Put the other 4 ozs in a new accumulator. That will ensure a good supply of oil when you start it up. (Start it up without any oil and your new compressor will immediately seize.) Pull a vacuum and let that vacuum pull in the 1st can (or as much as it will suck out of it). Jump the low pressure switch harness with a paperclip, start the engine and prop the throttle so that it's running at about 1500 rpms, get the main fan running (which on the '84 I believe it does once a/c is commanded) and turn the a/c controls to max. Let the system pull in the balance of the charge monitoring the high side until the pressure is about 2.2 to 2.5 times the temperature of the air across the condensor (so if it's 80 degrees at the condensor, you want to think about stopping once you see 175 to 200 psi on your high side gage. And with a bottom feeder like the Vette, even with main fan running - condensor air temp is usually about 10 degrees hotter than ambient).

When you're done filling it up, plug in the low pressure switch harness and with the a/c still on max, disconnect the blower motor. The low side will drop and the low pressure switch should open cutting power to the compressor clutch. Note that pressure. For R12, it should be 25 psi; for R134 22.5 psi. There is an adjustment screw between the low pressure switch terminals. Turning it clockwise will raise the cutoff threshold; counterclockwise will reduce it. Most need no more than 1/2to a full turn in one direction or the other to get it right, but you may have to unplug the harness, turn the screw a bit and then plug it back in a couple of times to get it right.

Nice post. The only additions I would add are:

When pulling the vacuum, let it continue vacuuming for enough time to boil out any moisture that may have entered the unit. If the hoses were off & open to atmosphere, there will be moisture in it. If the unit was open overnight or longer, I would vacuum (boil) it out for 40 minuites or more.

When recharging you MAY add that first can as a fluid (can upside down) to the Hi side, WITH THE CAR OFF. After adding to the fluid side, the gauges should even out. If the low don't equal the Hi (ENG OFF) there is a blockage. The balance of the charge should be added through the LOW side (can right side up) as described. Make sure to close the red **** on gauge set. NEVER OPEN THE RED **** (on the gauges) WITH THE CAR RUNNING.
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