C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Dead 93

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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 02:17 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by HOWSER
Great idea. What's the best way to view it? From the top or underneath?
From the top. Don't even think youu can see it from underneath.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 02:36 PM
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A noid light is available at most parts stores. It plugs into the injector harness in place of an injector, and flashes when the engine is cranked if the ECM is sending pulses to trigger the injector.

A coil wire that's arcing to engine ground can definitely cause a no-start condition.

Be well,

SJW
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 07:15 PM
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I checked the coil wire and it was in top shape, not touching anything. I'll stop by tomorrow and pick up a FP gauge. Get back with you then.

I thank all of you for your assistance so far.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 07:28 PM
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That info would have been helpful about 2 weeks ago. My no start condition turns out that the fuel injectors where not pulsing when they should have been. Anyway, as simple as this may sound its taken two weeks to find this out. Oh, and its still not fixed
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by HOWSER
Great idea. What's the best way to view it? From the top or underneath? And did you or would this cause a no start?
From the top. Yes it caused a no start condition, just cranked and nothing.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 10:23 PM
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Default I agree, For me, It was the Ignition Module

Originally Posted by Redeasysport
Impossible to jump timing with an Opti.SJW is correct.If you don't have it get the FSM from www.helminc.com for your car.My guess is either opti, Ignition control module or fuel pump and all tests for them are in the manual.
My 93 left me on the side of the road in Birmingham on a hot day. It was the Ignition Module. I did the testing to see if I had proper fuel pressure ( It did), Then I check for spark from the plugs, then I went ahead and check the injectors with a node light (they were working). So, with this all in mind, I looked for the module, It was close to the front of the block on the passenger side, near the top of the block. I had to scrape some engine funk off to see it clearly. I took it to a parts store and had it tested. I’m not sure if they could or not, its been awhile but I bought one and I fixed my problem. Good luck, Hope this helps.

Last edited by Jack_leg; Jun 7, 2006 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 04:59 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Mr Mojo
Before you go nuts, check your coil wire and make sure it isn't rubbing against your water pump. This happened to me and I had the same symptoms as you describe.
This is a fairly common problem on these cars,or so I`ve been told by a local Chev dealer.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack_leg
My 93 left me on the side of the road in Birmingham on a hot day. It was the Ignition Module. I did the testing to see if I had proper fuel pressure ( It did), Then I check for spark from the plugs, then I went ahead and check the injectors with a node light (they were working). So, with this all in mind, I looked for the module, It was close to the front of the block on the passenger side, near the top of the block. I had to scrape some engine funk off to see it clearly. I took it to a parts store and had it tested. I’m not sure if they could or not, its been awhile but I bought one and I fixed my problem. Good luck, Hope this helps.
Hey thanks Jack. I called Autozone here and they said they could test it for me. I think I know which part it is but does someone have a picture or diagram shoing it?

Thanks again.

Eric
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 07:32 PM
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Default 1993 Corvette Ignition Module

I didn't look, I'm at work and the car is at home waiting for me to put brakes on it. The module is on the block or head, I’m not sure but it is mid-way up the motor on an aluminum surface. Passenger side. Follow the wires that will help. Haynes doesn't show it if I remember correctly. If you looked at the new one at the parts store you should find it with no problem.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 07:54 PM
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Thanks. I have just removed it and I'm getting ready to go to the parts store to get it tested. I found a diagram in my service manual which made it much easier. I'll get back with you guys in just a bit.

Cheers!
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 07:57 PM
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Good luck.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack_leg
Good luck.
They couldn't find the right connecter...And I didn't have time to drive down to the next store.

I'll do it first thing in the a.m.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 08:46 PM
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How much did they want for it? Did you think about Advance auto? They will have higher prices sometimes, but you can price match. Also, is this a order thing?
O, How much did it set you back to get the 375 gears?
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 01:30 AM
  #34  
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HOWSER, have you checked fuel pressure yet, or made sure the fuel pump is priming the rails. This would be the first thing *I* looked at before taking apart the engine components. A failing fuel pump would cause what you described in the first post. The way I check for spark is use a known good spark plug and try each wire. Disconnect each wire from its plug and use the spare plug about 1/2" from the exhaust manifold and have someone crank on the engine after the fuel pump fuse is out. You should see a blue spark at all 8. To start and engine you need fuel, spark, and air and all at the right time. I would troubleshoot in that order. IMO
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
HOWSER, have you checked fuel pressure yet, or made sure the fuel pump is priming the rails. This would be the first thing *I* looked at before taking apart the engine components. A failing fuel pump would cause what you described in the first post. The way I check for spark is use a known good spark plug and try each wire. Disconnect each wire from its plug and use the spare plug about 1/2" from the exhaust manifold and have someone crank on the engine after the fuel pump fuse is out. You should see a blue spark at all 8. To start and engine you need fuel, spark, and air and all at the right time. I would troubleshoot in that order. IMO
Thanks for your input. Since I already removed the Ignition module I might as well have it tested. If this passes the test I'll be sure to check the fuel pressure next.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 09:10 AM
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Well the ignition module tested bad. I won't be able to install it till later this afternoon though. I asked them (O'Reilly's Auto Parts) if they would grefund the part if the car doesn't fire and they agreed. There is always a chance the tester failed.

They wanted $94 for that little module, and that was a competitive price! Youch!

I'll keep you guys posted.

Thanks again.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 10:57 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by HOWSER
Well the ignition module tested bad. I won't be able to install it till later this afternoon though. I asked them (O'Reilly's Auto Parts) if they would grefund the part if the car doesn't fire and they agreed. There is always a chance the tester failed.

They wanted $94 for that little module, and that was a competitive price! Youch!

I'll keep you guys posted.

Thanks again.
I've seen them a bit cheaper than that at AutoZone and NAPA. About $70 to $75 there.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 12:57 PM
  #38  
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Glad you found the possible problem.Yep they are pricey but cheaper than the opti and a whole lot easier to install.Make sure you use the heatsink paste on install it should come with the module. Superior Chevy in KS( a forum supporter) has genuine GM ICM for $90.I recommend it over after market ones they have been reported to prematurely fail sometimes.

Last edited by Redeasysport; Jun 9, 2006 at 01:07 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 06:18 PM
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Well I installed the new module with no difference. I ended up taking it back and having a different person retest the original ignition module. This time it tested good, 2 different ways.

I bought a fuel pressure gauge and tested that. 39psi.

Where should I go next?
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 07:49 PM
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Well the next logical thing to check, in my opinion would be the fuel injectors
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