C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Help!!!!!!!!!!Procharger destroyed LT-1!!!!

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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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From: Astrakhan city no
Default Help!!!!!!!!!!Procharger destroyed LT-1!!!!

Hello.I put D1 sc procharger with intercooler with 15 psi on my LT-1
engine.I lowered compression to 9.2 & install Clivete 77 P series main bearings & rods H series bearings.All other parts are stock.
What happend after 5 tuning passes?????No main bearings at all,rod bearings look like after 100 K miles & two broken pistons.....Help please.What parts I need to use?I am far from you.I am in Russia....
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 07:01 PM
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Ummm, stock pistons won't do it. You need some kind of heavy duty after market. For 15 psi I would say that you need to lower the compression do below 9:1, 8.5:1 or lower would be ideal.

What did you do for tuning? The stock timing would destroy an engine. What are using for adjusting that. Also what are you using for adjusting fuel? Also what injectors, fuel pump and what not.

Are your pistons pitted? My guess is detonation killed the engine.
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 07:41 PM
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did you check the clearance of the bearing journals on the crank to the rods and main block line? this is important to make sure you have the correct sized bearing in there. also did you change pistons? if so did you balance the assembly? give us some more information as Mnvette stated.. it will help to pinpoint where you went wrong and help to advise on a correction.

Chris
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 12:33 AM
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Def need forged pistons man. Your compression ratio is a little high, but I run 15+ psi on 9.2:1 compression
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 01:19 AM
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first ,I installed 42 lb injectors & changed fuel capasity in the tunerpro programm.Than I changed timing on full throttle from 36 to 20 degrees.No other changes .I understand that pistons problems are the detonation .Maybe it is better to buy adjustments from somebody ,if you now such place,please tell me.But I dont understand what finished life of bearings?My engine is 37 K miles.Last year I used 200 hp Nitrous on it on stock engine.I opened it but everything was o kay exept rod bearings,But now !!!!Main bearings were destroyed after two days of driving.May be I need another oil pump?I didn t changed my pistons,I only made the dish on them without balancing.The dish is 1.2mm from the top of the piston.

Last edited by alx; Jun 11, 2006 at 01:22 AM.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 05:07 AM
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Default to much timing advance

a stock engine with 15 lbs of boost will live for a while as long as you are not detonating ,i would say you haven't put some kind of timing retard ,even a engine with forged pistons will blow if you get into bad detonation ,under hi boost and you pound out the engine bearings at the same time .a engine can take a lot of boost as long as you got the right timing and fuel delivery, even a bone stock lt1
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by alx
Than I changed timing on full throttle from 36 to 20 degrees.No other changes .
What do you mean full throttle? If you are working a 1 bar map sensor still than I would change the last few lines of the kpa side to something lower(95 and 100 kpa). I would first start out doing a 1.5 degree/psi retard. So if you are running 15 psi I would pull it back to 13.5 degrees and start working your way up from there a degree or two at a time watching your knock readings the whole time.

Remember you'll have to change all of the lower rpm as well with the same formula depending on how much boost you make at a given rpm.

Also how are you monitoring your air/fuel ratio? Do you have a wideband setup on the car? If not I'd pick one up, they are only $300 or so.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 09:09 AM
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Can you tell me,were is the better place to buy performance rotating assembly for my needs?
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by alx
Can you tell me,were is the better place to buy performance rotating assembly for my needs?
these guys sell rotating assembles:
www.speedomotive.com

PS--how did you get 15 psi of boost out of your setup? are you running a cog or 8-rib setup?
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 11:32 PM
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8-rib for now. Soon to be beltless however. My turbo project just started this week.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mn_vette
Remember you'll have to change all of the lower rpm as well with the same formula depending on how much boost you make at a given rpm.
Wait, I'm confused. Since he has a 1 bap MAP sensor, the highest it goes it 101 in the tuning program (effectively at atmospheric (14.7)). Therefore once he hits boost, he will be at over 100kpa which it will use the 100kpa values in the ECM. Why would he have to change the formula for RPM? It is still only using the 100 kpa values (because he is in boost). Unless you are refering to a spark advance/RPM table. In that case it would make sense. I guess I was just wondering if you could elaborate on your "change formula at rpm" response.

Also, for ALX, when you say that you adjusted the fuel flow for the higher injectors, I assume you mean you did more than just change the fuel injector constant. I don't have the tunercat program on this computer, but I think that they have a table to adjust the fuel pulse time based on RPM and TPS%/MAP (or something along those lines).

Let me know guys.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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Yes.. he is most likely discussing the timing tables.. which once into 100kpa as mentioned will need to be adjusted vs rpm while under boost because you have effectively lost one input for engine data (MAP). same as the other table kown as the power enrichment table.. this is the offset for fueling which adds pulse width under WOT per RPM range.. it is fairly simple to tune with if the base program is already running smooth and you have access to a dyno. and can trim your fueling from reading the data on the dyno print out. which should give you a good bit of insight as to where your fuel needs to be fattened and also if ther eis timing being pulled out. simply pull some timing until you rid the knock retard.

Chris
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by lcvette
Yes.. he is most likely discussing the timing tables.. which once into 100kpa as mentioned will need to be adjusted vs rpm while under boost because you have effectively lost one input for engine data (MAP). same as the other table kown as the power enrichment table.. this is the offset for fueling which adds pulse width under WOT per RPM range.. it is fairly simple to tune with if the base program is already running smooth and you have access to a dyno. and can trim your fueling from reading the data on the dyno print out. which should give you a good bit of insight as to where your fuel needs to be fattened and also if ther eis timing being pulled out. simply pull some timing until you rid the knock retard.

Chris
Yep, I agree. Also, I just got the chance to look at the tables. the main and extended spark advance table has both Spark adv vs RPM vs MAP. so I guess I was confused because I didn't look the tunercat files. My apologies.

Thanks,
Scott

EDITED FOR SPELLING/GRAMMAR

Last edited by Scott94C4; Jun 13, 2006 at 09:13 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 06:54 AM
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Default Made the dish on the pistons????

Are you saying that you modified the stock pistons so that they had a dish in them?
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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 09:24 AM
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That is the way I understood it as well. I have seen people "eyebrow" the pistons, but never "dishing" a piston.
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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastmax32168
Are you saying that you modified the stock pistons so that they had a dish in them?
I have never heard of that before....
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by AKS Racing
That is the way I understood it as well. I have seen people "eyebrow" the pistons, but never "dishing" a piston.
Dishing can work well with a forged piston, like the Powerforged 2256 flattop, but factory cast pistons do not have near enough material to do this.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by LT1GMC
Dishing can work well with a forged piston, like the Powerforged 2256 flattop, but factory cast pistons do not have near enough material to do this.

I guess that is new to me. I am not from the "old school." I would rather have a machine and mold to do that for me...

That shay-tree mechanic stuff scares me. Especially on modern fuel injected vehicles.
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