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To install the TB bypass, it says to disconnect "the hose". Which hose?? I see like 4 of them but I might be looking at the wrong thing. I wish this thing came with instructions. :confused: :crazy:
Ok, nm on which hoses I need to connect. I figured that out once I removed the air intake. My REAL question is can you just connect them directly, or do I need an extension of hose and another TB byass kit?
On an LT1, you need to connect these two hoses still. You will either need a long coupler or do like most people, and just buy new longer hoses and use a regular connector. The throttle body bypass tube is the highest part of the cooling system attached directly to the radiator system. That pipe needs to be there for random bubbles and the bubbles from boiling point to gather. If you eliminate this line, then the highest part of the system is the waterpump/head area, and you don't want air bubbles to collect in there.
The pressure tank is NOT the highest part of the system as the bubbles would have to go through the entire radiator and up through the small 3/8's or so tube into the reservior (which isn't going to happen).
Any other questions, ask away! I've spent a lot of time down around that area.
On the passengers side under the fuel rail cover there is a small dia. tube about 1/4" and on one end is a rubber hose about 3/8" in dia. This hose connects to the passenger side of the throttle body, down low and toward the front. On the opposite side of the throttle body, down low and sorta toward the front (toward radiator) is another 3/8" rubber hose. First you must disconnect both hoses. Next, you can either connect the two loose ends with a brass hose coupler (Home Depot) and use the small hose clamps. Or you can buy a new length of rubber hose and connect one end to the 1/4" tube and the other end to the radiator but I think it was a little tight getting to the radiator fitting and I just connected the two hoses together. I used a nylon tie to hold the rubber hose up and away from the flywheel so it would not rub. I hope I explained this OK. I know when I first did this a while back it required me to ask a lot of questions.
The pressure tank is NOT the highest part of the system as the bubbles would have to go through the entire radiator and up through the small 3/8's or so tube into the reservior (which isn't going to happen).
Glock 94.
When I bypassed mine I used the 95-96 upper radiator hose and a stright connection in the heater hose to eliminate the tee. What you said makes sense, but if it is true, how do the 95-96 get rid of the air bubbles? I would like to hear some input on this since I dont want to damage the heads as well as several others on this forum that have done the same thing. Thanks
I did the same thing on my '94 -- I replaced the upper rad hose with a '95-'96 hose, which does not have the TB line spliced in the middle. Then I got a 3/4" hose connector at the auto store to splice into the line running along the passenger dust shield. These 2 mods effectivley eliminated the TB coolant lines with no excess hoses running around the engine compartment. Total cost was less than $20 ($18 for the '95 rad hose and $.50 for the 3/4" connector) :D
On my 92, the passenger side hose was a 5/8 hose and the drivers side was a 3/8 hose. What I did was get a longer 5/8 hose and got rid of the original 5/8 hose entirely, replacing it with the longer (about 6" longer) 5/8 hose I purchased. Then got a 5/8 to 3/8 hose adapter at the hardware store and connected the 5/8 hose to the 3/8 hose. No leaks, no problems, nice cool throttle body.
You guys with the '94 to '95/'96 upper radiator lines have a picture of that modification. It sounds to me like you're eliminating that TB hose.. are you? If the '95/'96 doesn't have a T from the upper radiator hose into the TB, then how is the TB coolant line setup from the factory?
You guys with the '94 to '95/'96 upper radiator lines have a picture of that modification. It sounds to me like you're eliminating that TB hose.. are you? If the '95/'96 doesn't have a T from the upper radiator hose into the TB, then how is the TB coolant line setup from the factory?
[Modified by Glock'94, 11:40 AM 8/29/2001]
There is no tee on the 96. There is a small 1/4" metal tube which runs underneath the fuel rail cover. To one end of the tube is a 3/8" hose and the other end connects to the passenger side of the throttle body. NO TEE! On the drivers side of the throttle body is another 3/8" rubber hose. DISCONNECT BOTH HOSES FROM BOTH SIDES OF THE THROTTLE BODY AND CONNECT THEM TOGETHER. Simple process.
The 95-96 upper radiator hose is identical to the 93 except it has no tee. I do wonder though, by eliminating the fitting and doing away with the hose crossing from the radiator to the heater hose, is this going to cause air pockets in the engine? I hope not, since I did it this way and just drove to Carsile (250 mile round trip) with it bypassed. I still have the bleeder on top of the t-stat housing to burp air out of the system. Not trying to argue here, I would like to know, this could be very expensive if it does damage. Thanks for your opinions!!
First of all, Red 86, why the heck are posting at 4:26 AM?!? :sleep: Anyway, the TB bypass should not cause air bubbles to form by itself. Whenever you change the coolant, its is always appropriate to bleed air out of the system via the bleeder valves. Once a steady steam of coolant pours out of the valve, you have successfully bled the system and no new air pockets should form given you have a tight system w/ no leaks.
To bypass mine I just had to get a longer piece of hose from the auto parts store. The stock hoses are not long enough to connect to each other, strange enough there is a gap about the size of the throttle body. Anyway rather than get a long coupler I just paid $1.50 for a longer piece of hose. I only replaced the one that comes off the T in the upper radiator hose. I made it long enough to meet the other hose and the connected them together. The coolant still traces the same path, but it doesn't go through the throttle body, nothing else is affected.
For now, I'm leaving mine with the bypass hose installed. My temperatures frequently see 220 or so because of the heat, and that is close to boiling temperature. We all know that if the coolant starts to boil what so ever, then there will be bubbles in the system, and they have to rise to somewhere, which would be this coolant bypass line.
I'm not an expert on how they designed it, but this makes the most logical sense. I would be interested if someone has solid evidence that would prove me wrong, because I too would like to have as few hoses under neath the hood as possible.
I live in New England, where the wintertime temperatures frequently go below zero. I don't want to risk freezover of my throtte body during the winter. Could I install a couple of hose pinch clamps? These are from a science lab and are designed to squeeze a hose closed as you tighten the screw, without damaging the hose. They can be installed and removed from both sides of the throttle body in a minute. I'm thinking of installing them at the track, and taking them off later. Any thoughts on this plan??
You could probably do that, just be sure it doesn't wear out your hoses over time so that they burst. You could also install a turn valve that you could use to allow the water to flow through during the hotter temps, and open up for the winter. I tried this with some local autoparts store parts, and it leaked within a few days (the valve), so be sure to get something more heavy duty than I did.