Brake Light still on.... ????
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Miami Florida
Brake Light still on.... ????
Ok, I've changed the Master Cylinder, Power Booster, And front break pads, the car stops on a dime now and is no leaking any break fluid, I've disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and still the break light is on... Is there a reset or somthing ???
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Miami Florida
Opps, I should have been more specific,
It's the light on the dash the one that says "BRAKE"; it came on last week before I replaced the booster and cylinder (when it would'nt stop at all)
It's the light on the dash the one that says "BRAKE"; it came on last week before I replaced the booster and cylinder (when it would'nt stop at all)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
I would first try moving the E-brake handle up and down. Sometimes on mine when I release the E-brake the light doesn't always go out and then I just push the button in and push and wiggle the brake handle up and down for it to go out. There is a switch there as well.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Not sure what year we're talking about (no profile) but on my 90 there's a low fluid switch on the master that grounds internally in the MC when fluid pressure is low. Sometimes they stick inside when pressure is off during service. To check it try un pluging the wire plug that goes to the master as this will in turn "un-ground" it and turn off the light. You may have to turn key off and on to reset it after you unplug the wire (cant remember). If this turns out the light then the switch is stuck to ground internally. If so you may get lucky by tapping it lightly with a srewdriver or something. If no luck you will have to pull it to unstick it. That or leave it unplugged and keep an often check on your fluid level.
Also check this wire closely to make sure it's not rubbing of grounding anywhere as the result is the same as the switch being stuck (light on).
Also check this wire closely to make sure it's not rubbing of grounding anywhere as the result is the same as the switch being stuck (light on).
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 763
Likes: 0
From: pa
just put ss hoses on wifes 88 in fsm there is something about pushing pedal all the way to the floor to get brake lite off will look it up tomorrow if no one else pipes in dont know if 88 and 90 are the same
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by Zero Limits
It's an 84,
skateparkdave that must be it , when I disconnected it, it turns off the light.
But the sensor must be bad couse I can't get it to unground...
Thanks
skateparkdave that must be it , when I disconnected it, it turns off the light.
But the sensor must be bad couse I can't get it to unground...
Thanks
You may try putting a wrench on it and twist it a tad and see if that unsticks it.
Here's what my spare looks like pulled out, not sure if 84's were the same.
You can see how the tip could get stuck to ground in there when you look at it.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 32
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by Zero Limits
No, I'm not even sure what or where that is?
It is item 15, screwed into your master cylinder at an angle. It is the only part of the master cylinder that has a wire attached to it.
RACE ON!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I have to admit I never knew it to be called a "pressure differential warning switch" but I can see we are refering to the same part.
#15 is the warning switch that I'm holding in my hand in pic in my last post.
I'm trying to learn something here too CFI-EFI so I was just wondering how one would "re-center" it? Is there a method? It looks like the spring loaded pintle of sorts just fits directly into a hole at bottom when installed and when the brake fluid pressure is up to par it just backs it out of the hole enough not to ground.
It seems like it could get stuck in there when pressure is off and fluid is dry but I never heard/read of "re-centering" it.
Just in case my text may seem smart alecky I want to be certain that it's not taken that way as I really want to know about the re-centering of the switch if there's a method.
I cant find anything in my 1990 Helms on it.
Thanks,
Dave
#15 is the warning switch that I'm holding in my hand in pic in my last post.
I'm trying to learn something here too CFI-EFI so I was just wondering how one would "re-center" it? Is there a method? It looks like the spring loaded pintle of sorts just fits directly into a hole at bottom when installed and when the brake fluid pressure is up to par it just backs it out of the hole enough not to ground.
It seems like it could get stuck in there when pressure is off and fluid is dry but I never heard/read of "re-centering" it.
Just in case my text may seem smart alecky I want to be certain that it's not taken that way as I really want to know about the re-centering of the switch if there's a method.
I cant find anything in my 1990 Helms on it. Thanks,
Dave
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 32
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by skateparkdave
I'm trying to learn something here too CFI-EFI so I was just wondering how one would "re-center" it? Is there a method? It looks like the spring loaded pintle of sorts just fits directly into a hole at bottom when installed and when the brake fluid pressure is up to par it just backs it out of the hole enough not to ground.
It seems like it could get stuck in there when pressure is off and fluid is dry but I never heard/read of "re-centering" it.
Thanks,
Dave
It seems like it could get stuck in there when pressure is off and fluid is dry but I never heard/read of "re-centering" it.
Thanks,
Dave
The brake warning light can be triggered by bleeding the brakes. Sometimes simply repairing the cause of the pressure loss on the one side, will not re-center the switch. It may be necessary to, purposely, cause a temporary pressure reduction on the other side of the switch, to make it re-center.
RACE ON!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Well I knew about the proportioning valve but never heard of the warning switch termed as "pressure differential warning switch" but I see that it in fact is.
I see that re-centering it just involves balancing the pressure by relieving the pressure from one side or other. Wonder how one would determine which side to relieve? I guess by trial and error.
Thanks Dude
A day that I learn something is a good day.
I see that re-centering it just involves balancing the pressure by relieving the pressure from one side or other. Wonder how one would determine which side to relieve? I guess by trial and error.
Thanks Dude
A day that I learn something is a good day.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 32
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by skateparkdave
Wonder how one would determine which side to relieve? I guess by trial and error.
RACE ON!!!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
utterly facinating.
I never realized that is what the brake light switch did... then again, I have never had a problem of this nature, causing the required troubleshooting.... and I have done a **** load of brake jobs over the years.
I never realized that is what the brake light switch did... then again, I have never had a problem of this nature, causing the required troubleshooting.... and I have done a **** load of brake jobs over the years.