A Stroked Eng.. ????
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 1
Man, this thread is a wealth of information regarding what people paid and what they had done.
Where did you all get your blocks? Used, New, origional? I wouldn't mind having a motor that looks stock but pounds the pavement with torque! But how do I decide if using my origional block is good?
Where did you all get your blocks? Used, New, origional? I wouldn't mind having a motor that looks stock but pounds the pavement with torque! But how do I decide if using my origional block is good?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 8,683
Likes: 6
From: Phoenix AZ
If I do go with rebuilding mine to a 383, the same headers will work right ??? ( I Know, NOVICE question)....
Where did you all get your blocks? Used, New, origional? I wouldn't mind having a motor that looks stock but pounds the pavement with torque! But how do I decide if using my origional block is good?
Have your original block checked out by a machine shop, they can tell you whether it's good...but if you're currently using it without any problems then it should be just fine for a 383 upgrade.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
From: OKC OK
$8-$12K is right for a 383 gen2 motor done right, not being cheap with parts, machine work, or labor. The peripherals can greatly change the actual spent figure, so it should be itemized, so you know what you will be getting. At this range, you should be dealing with a legitimate shop, with insurance, the right tools for the job, experience, and a warranty, from 12-24k on the motor. However, I would want to know the experience level, and previous experience with the same setup, before I spent it.
That said, it's a **** in the wind, unless they have the ability to tune it, and I mean tune it well.
That said, it's a **** in the wind, unless they have the ability to tune it, and I mean tune it well.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 5
From: Howard PA
I think the best way to do this is to have a good donor motor and work on that when cash allows. That way you're not in a big hurry and start cheaping out. Plus you can still drive your love everyday and dream of the day the 383 goes in.
And where in the hell are you guys getting ripped off for 11 or 12k
We just finished one the way I described for well under 5k, that includes everything. We did do all the assembly ourselves, even if you add that in though I can't see it being 5-7 thousand in labor.
And where in the hell are you guys getting ripped off for 11 or 12k
We just finished one the way I described for well under 5k, that includes everything. We did do all the assembly ourselves, even if you add that in though I can't see it being 5-7 thousand in labor.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: Redwood City CA
Originally Posted by ALLT4
I think the best way to do this is to have a good donor motor and work on that when cash allows. That way you're not in a big hurry and start cheeping out. Plus you can still drive your love everyday and dream of the day the 383 goes in.
And where in the hell are you guys getting ripped off for 11 or 12k
We just finished one the way I described for well under 5k, that includes everything. We did do all the assembly ourselves, even if you add that in though I can't see it being 5-7 thousand in labor.
And where in the hell are you guys getting ripped off for 11 or 12k
We just finished one the way I described for well under 5k, that includes everything. We did do all the assembly ourselves, even if you add that in though I can't see it being 5-7 thousand in labor.
I guess it would be the proper way to go and learn at the same time.. It would give me something to do and keep me out of trouble until i popped it in and riped on down the road 
.........
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 387
Likes: 3
From: Indian Trail, NC
i'm in the process of building a 383 right now and i can guess that i'm gonna spend around $7500 for just the motor...forget about driveline upgrades to handle the power. but here is a very important question. does anyone know an inexpensive oil pan that can be used with a stroker motor such as a 383? i've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out which one to use. 
Last edited by farscape1a; Jun 20, 2006 at 01:45 AM.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
From: richardson tx
i used my block and heads and intake when i done it. i used the eagle stroker kit around 1k from jegs, around 300 for 224/230 cam. the machine shop did all the block work crank, pistons, bearings ect.. valve job, stiffer springs. i picked up the block and two heads for about 35 hundred. i saved alot by putting it all togather and dropping it in the car myself . 11k? i guess if your replacing every single part with new, alt, starter, labor ect.... complete engine ready to drop. i just dont see 11k any other way. to stroke the block? or complete engine?
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 24,460
Likes: 7
From: sw Ohio
I want to build a 383 stroker for my vette. Is it a bad idea to reuse the original block that has 110K miles on it? The engine has been well maintained and of course its cast iron. It would of course have to be bored out anyway.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 5
From: Howard PA
Originally Posted by 4Ever21
I want to build a 383 stroker for my vette. Is it a bad idea to reuse the original block that has 110K miles on it? The engine has been well maintained and of course its cast iron. It would of course have to be bored out anyway.
So I'd say go for it. Have it hot tanked and inspected, if all is well it's a really good base for a buildup.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 993
Likes: 3
From: Iowa
By all means use your original block! The only reason to go aftermarket is in a true race situation where severe conditions mandate them or for huge cubes in a small block. Just have the block sonic checked first; this will allow you to verify the integrity of the cylinder walls. Once that is found to be ok, have the block line honed, bored and honed with plates, and decked. After that you are pretty much ready to go. As for the oil pan you can ding yours in a little bit to make the clearance. For the de-stroked comment earlier; all Nextel cup engines are huge de-stroker’s with a 4.150ish bore and a puny 3.25 stroke crank. This is partly due to them being rules limited to 355 cid. With this configuration they get the best of both worlds, high rpm capability and also if you look at cylinder head flow on a bench FOR THE MOST PART, a given head will flow more cfm into a larger bore than a smaller one. So they get also better flow numbers as well. Sorry for the long post!