Just what does it mean when they say there engine is stroked, such as a 383 STROKER ???????????

 

The original crank has been replaced with a larger stroke. An example would be a 350 Chevy that you swapped out the 350 crank for a 400 crank which increases the stroke which is why they call it stroked or a stroker. These arrangements can require added machine work but the added cost and effort is almost always worth it. The 383 you mentioned is a 30 over 350 block with a 400 crank with some minor machine work and it adds torque and horsepower both typically.
There are many combinations that can be accomplished but with a factory block there are certainly more limitations than with most aftermarket blocks. There are blocks that are specifically designed increased stroke cranks and many of them feature a raised deck for added clearance and are typically called a tall deck.

While you ask about stroked there is also something called destroke which is typically the opposite. A common destroke would be a 377. The 377 is a 400 block with a 350 crank. This is not common any more and the reason it was more common years ago is that GM never made a true steel crank for a 400 that came in a production car so guys who wanted bigger cubic inches could take advantage of the larger bore block of the 400 and the steel crank of a 350 and they could pound the devil out of them. The claim is that the engines would rev faster and they worked great in lighter weight cars and they were a very easy internally balance job where the 400 cranks were externally balanced. Today the 377 is not common because it gives up added torque and there is really no horsepower gain and the 406 is a very simply solution and you get more engine for about the same price. Today the cost for aftermarket 4340 steel cranks are dirt cheap and years ago you were very limited with brands who actually made a 4340 3.75 stroke crank that the average guy could afford...today you can buy an engine Eagle rotating assembly with crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings and fully balanced for what a 4340 crank cost 10 years ago.

NitrousSam

 

So, if i wanted to stroke my 95 Lt1 A4 would i just move up to a 383 or what... i'm a novice but i just talked to a guy that workes only on corvetes (20 + years) and a racer. He told me it would cost me at the min. $11k.. Does this sound right ?

 

To move up to 383 you have to bore the block .030" and add the larger crankshaft, and probably notch the bottom end for clearance of that crank.

The total cost could run up to 10K for everything that you might replace, yes. Typically its a fair bit less and varies greatly depending on what you want, but since you seem to not know what all there is to do, you'll be paying someone else to do it all and that gets $$$$.

Theres the all new bearings, pistons, rings, better camshaft, head portwork, etc. etc. etc.

 

So would i be better off with a blower in-stead???

 

Unless you got unlimited cash.....then yea a blower would be better but if your cheap and poor like me giggle gas is good.

 

Hell no. You can get aftermarket crank kits (stroker) for practically the same price as stock stroke parts.

What are your goals and driving habits?

 

$11,000 does not sound right in my opinion. There are very experienced guys on this forum that could rebuild your current engine into a 383 and install it for probably half of what you are being told. Now if he is building an entirely new engine with all new parts, installing it and redoing your tune that could be real. Ultimately what direction you go depends on your long term goal. If you want something that you can spank your buddies with at the track or at a cruise in I would put a nitrous kit on it and do it cheap. The blower idea is a great one but there can certainly be some unexpected costs and fabrication unless you are willing to pay the corvette tax and buy a Corvette Specific Blower specifically designed for your year Corvette.

 

A little more info for ya:
The stock motor from the factory has 350 cubic inches of displacement.
When you bore out the cylinders, usually the machinist will remove .030" of material off the cylinder walls to clean them up.
Now that the cylinder is larger by that amount, it will require a new piston that is larger by the same amount over the stock size.
The added displacement equals 5 cubic inches. Although you can bore to many different sizes, the industry standards usually are .030" over, then, .040" over and in last resort (for our cars' factory blocks) is .060" over.
With the same crank/stroke,
.030" over = 355 cid,
.040" over = 360 cid,
.060" over = 365 cid.

Just as pistons need to be larger for their respective larger bore sizes, the piston rings need to be larger by the same amounts as well.
Ring gap is a spec that is different from ring size.

 

I've been pricing this also and it looks like most 383 kits are well under $3k even forged. The extra cost will probably be labor and all the other upgrades that will be hard to resist and go well with it.

 

$11k??? Damn, I'm no where near that amount and I replaced everything! New torque converter, new injectors, new intake upper and lower, new sensors, you name it it was replaced. It's expensive! No doubt about that but find a reputable builder and let them know your position and find one that will work with you. You don't want someone that is going to throw it down your throat without explaining all the benefits of your new 383 or 406 or whatever you decide to build. Study some books on your own and ask a lot of questions before you put down your green as you only get one shot to do it right. This forum is great as well and will be a great benefit if you get stuck. Good luck!

 

I just got a forged Eagle stroker crank some OK rods and nice hyperutectic pistons for under $1000. The machine-shop work isn't cheap and neither is getting the engine assembled correctly, which is above my current level of knowledge (but I'm learning). I am trying to keep a budget as the car will be a driver, so I'll post up results.

 

I have $1,800 invested in the short block(383) that is in my car now. This includes buying the block, machining it, new cast crank, rebuilt stock rods,hyper pistons, w/arp bolts, arp studs for the mains, moly rings, flexplate, balancing, bearings, freeze plugs and gaskets/seals. I assembled it myself, saving $400. Although this represents probably the lowest possible cost, You have to try very hard to spend 11k.

 

Could you spend 11K, certainly! Is that the minimum? No way!

11K would get you one hell of an engine though!

If you are having someone else to the build/installation I would budget around $6500-7500 for a strong 383.

 

I've had my 383 built by a friend. I spent around 6k for everything. I brought everything brand new from the oil pan to the plenum. For 11k you can build 2 383's.

 

$11M is about right if you pay for everything (as opposed to free labor) and you upgrade cam, heads and induction along with the short block and headers. Ask me how I know.

 

ELEVEN MILLION!!!!! Dude, you got ripped off!!!! (Just kidding, I have a horible case of the fat fingers myself today!)

 

My 383 cost a tad shy of $4k. That included new block (4 bolt roller), 383 rotating assy, gaskets, hi-flow water pump, machine work, bearings, cam, lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, internal balance and new TFS heads and new valve springs due to the higher lift of the cam. If I throw in the cost of my tuning setup then it would be about $5.5k but I got a new notebook and ECM goodies out of the deal.

I also have a 84 so it looks like what GM provided but if you look inside (motor and ECM) it ain't close.

Ah crap now you got me thinking of other stuff - headers, DeWitts Radiator etc etc etc .... screw it I can count that high..

 

Current 383 project is running about $6K....short block was ~$3K....additional $3K in replacement parts (my 350 scattered all over a race track - not much was re-usable). Haven't received the short block yet so I'm still buying parts and cleaning up all the mess from the engine dis-assembly. Looks like I should finish it all well under the $10K window. Can't wait to hear her purrrrr!!!!

 

Well a C4 Blower Kit from Blowerworks in Wycoff, NJ (otherwise known as a Greg Carrol Supercharging system) goes for about $5,500.00 for a turn key system that must then be installed in your Vette and their catalog on page 10 estimates 40hours of install time.

Quality shop labor being what it is, you're still looking at a $10K package.