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This past weekend I was at Lime Rock Raceway and blew up my engine on the straight going into big bend. I was planning on eventually doing some serious engine work in the future, but that's history now. I have a 1989 L98 6 speed. I would like to get more HP (higher end power/higher revs). Since I'm going to rebuild the engine does anyone have any suggestions as to going about getting this? In other words, cams, balancing, port&polish (if so what parts) etc. And no...I'm not throwing in a LT-1/LT-4/LS-1/454/etc...
Any help would be greatly appreciated, and soon since the car is at the shop and on the lift.
If I was getting my engine rebuilt I would have it stroked to 383. It won't cost too much more (cost of a crank and machine clearancing) than a standard rebuilt.
To take full advantage of the extra cubes headwork, cams, intake manifold upgrade are needed, but that depends on your budget and goals (answer the above post)
you want more revs and highend power: get a tpis minram and one of their cams either the zz9 or zz409 OR you might even consider a solid cam if you are serious about reving it over 6000. Of course you'll have to setup the rest of the engine and car to take advantage of it. definitely have it balanceed and as was stated above you might consider stroking it while you're at it. Above all you'll need good heads to make power. Good luck
before you decide you should read the little book 'insider hints' from TPI
specialists --they have done a lot. 952 448 6021
i think of you follow their directions you will really have a performer.
No engine stock engine can rev higher than a Chevy 302 (7500) that I know but it will require better than pump gas (12.5 to 1 compression) and will certainly present problems with generating vacuum... 69 Z28 came with this motor and it is a monster... Not sure the TPI can keep up either but it would really be cool if someone made it all work... Good luck...
I have another idea. Consider putting in a used motor for cheap, get a low miler 350 from the junk yard and pop it in. Then sell the car. Now go buy a used C5 for about 30 g's. If you are gonna rebuild and go high horsepower and such you better do some serious math to figure it all out. To do it right you are gonna spend a lot! Trust me, look at my signature, hahaha. At this point in the game I wish I had bought a C5. I'm sure others willl tell you you can do a 383 stroker for a couple grand but they either don't know the full picture or arn't doing it all the way like I did. Dont' get me wrong, my car is fast and a hoot to drive, just consider that other option.
Horsepower cost money. I never thought that I'd have this much in a motor. I have enough money on my 47000 mile 89 that I could have bought the Grand Sport I wanted. The only problem is that I would have spent just a smuch on a new motor the the GS! :D
Damn.... Sorry to hear about the car Ben. I feel your pain. I killed my zz-3 bottom end at Portland last fall and killed a 383 bottom end this spring.
I'm just about done with my new engine (383 with Brodix heads) and am finally getting around to selling the good parts I had left over from the last one. If you're interested, I've got a set of stock late model L98 castings that have been CNC ported by CNC cylinder heads in Florida and further hand blended to really max them out. These heads are good for at least 400 hp if the other engine parts are right. A good intake, cam, rockers and proper aftermarket exhaust should get 340 or so RWHP (corrected not BS numbers) out of a strong engine with an automatic. More with a manual.
The heads are ready to go. The springs have 3000 miles on them and are still like new. Stainless valves, 10 degree locks and nice retainers. They have Manley push rod guides included. No rocker studs (I swapped them to my new heads). I'm thinking $750 plus shipping. CNC sells them for a whole lot more.
At least you went out in style! J/K. Lime Rock sure is an un-forgiving track in the event of an upset..there's no place to go but that guard rail. I guess your engine going is a head start on putting the 383 in there eh? Sorry to read this. Out with the old, in with the new. Good luck,and keep us posted.
I know what you mean about bucks... I was into my machinist for $1000 just for machine work to my block and balancing on the first 383. I clearanced the block for the crank on that one myself so I save a couple hundred. When I broke it last time. It was another $600. No assembly included :(
Theres nothing like taking a new set of $1400 cylinder heads to the shop right after you get them, either. I'll have $2k in them before they go on the car. Damn thing better pull 380+ RWHP or I'm gonna be getting the sledge hammer!
When you say "blow up" ,what exactly happened? If the bottom failed, consider replacing with a four bolt 383 short block (numbers won't match). Otherwise rebuild your stock block to maintain some resale value. The best bang for the buck, besides cubes, is porting and a big cam. :yesnod:
Like chris stated decide what you want from this new engine what will it be used for most of the time when you have made that decision post it then someone could give you some advice right now just not enough information to give any advice. As far as some of the post about expensive to build engine I would'nt know about that.
No matter what you chose displacement wise, I'd recommend getting a two bolt block rather than a four bolt. Lots of people will say I'm nuts but here's why I say it... Have you ever seen splayed main bearing caps? They are awesome! So much more support than a standard four bolt main! Get a seasoned two bolt block and fork over the $300-$400 to get the splayed caps installed on it. It will be almost the same price as a new 4 bolt block but it'll be rock solid.
Whatever you do, good luck and keep us posted w/ your results. I have an 85 I want to rebuild soon and I'm curious to know what you do and how it turns out. Good Luck!!! :seeya