Pulled the plug, need some info
1) when you put the key in the ignition, the security light blinks (I assume it is the wrong key) does the light come on and blink normally or is this as I suspect the vats working and that they are the wrong keys? (the guy I bought it from bought it in this condition and had no idea what could be wrong.) Oh yeah, it cranks, but no start.
2) on the 85 c4's, do the keys have the visible pellet resistors, because both keys he has, or I have now, look like standard hardware store keys with no type of resistor visible.
3)If they are indeed the wrong type of keys, can a dealer look up the necessary resistance number through the vin for a new key?
Thanks for any help, I 'spose you will be seeing a lot of me here, and some pics soon.
Last edited by adamsbomb; Jun 22, 2006 at 12:47 AM.

FWIW, VATS is just the resistor key. 85s don't have VATS, but they do have a full fledged theft deterrent system.
http://www.motorage.com/motorage/dat...09/article.pdf
I have an '85 also and it sounds like your anti-theft is working like it should (the way you describe the light blinking).
So... look at the next cause...
you need air/fuel/spark... something is missing.
Now when you turn the key to the on postion do you hear the fuel pump in the tank prime, like a humm, for about 2 sec. If not I would start there. You will also need to check for spark and check fuel pressure.
For spark I will get a spare spark plug and remove a wire one at a time and put the plug in the wire and hold it up about 1/2" for the exhaust manifold while someone cranks on the engine. You may want to remove the injector or fuel pump fuses for this test. You should see a blue spark and if your fingers are in the wrong place might even feel it.
You will also need a fuel pressure guage , that can be gotten at just about any autoparts store for $40. It will be attached at the Schrader valve one the passenger side fuel rail, looks like a tire valve stem. It just screws on, and when the key is in the on position the guage should read approx. 40 psi after you hear the pump prime.
Had some starter fluid on hand but no guage yet, (when I stopped at the store I didn't have the car yet to make sure I got the right one) I was at a friends shop, I have a rec. showing the fuel pump replaced not too long ago, plus my partner said he heard the hum for about 3 seconds....
But, after letting the pump shut down and with the key on, we pushed down on the schraeder valve and gas barely trickled out, not really any kind of pressure.
At this point I wanted to spray some starter fluid to see, but he said the computer wouldn't fire without recognizing a signal from the injectors so I didn't try.
I stopped on the way home, bought a new pump relay for gigles, a new filter, a pressure guage and cheap a** manual.
I am going out to unload the car from the trailer and will check the pressure, try the starting fluid and report back.
I will also post a couple of pics
Thanks for you're help all
Last edited by adamsbomb; Jun 22, 2006 at 09:47 PM.
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The gas barely coming from the Schrader valve isn't good. It should have a little force/pressure behind it. I would get the guage on there and see if pressure reads 36-42 psi after the key is on, then turn the key off and watch pressure, if it drops you have a leak in the system. Also use a basic test light and test the injector connectors while someone cranks the engine, just to see if you are getting signal to the injectors.
As for the starting fluid, it did nothing, so, I guess I will move to check the spark issue. If the ecm or ccm were bad, it would show more than just the 12 code right?
Now along with 12, it pulls up 54 according to my little code book:
low fuel pump voltage
Or
fuel pump relay
or
egr solenoid no.2 failure
or
quad-driver module output failure
or
mixture control solenoid- circuit voltage too high
any of these likely to cause a crank/no start issue?
I did notice when cranking it with the new battery, I definitely could smell the fuel.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Would not hurt to drain the tank and get some good clean stuff in her.
Ya just never know. (But no spark does not help either)
K
My next question would be, when I turn on the car, I hear the pump kick on, off after about 2 sec. But if I leave the key on, go to the schraeder on the fuel rail and let the pressure off, it does not continue to come out but rather the initial fuel comes out then nothing, could this be the fuel pump relay causing problems?
Although it doesnt start when I spray some starting fluid into the the very front of the aircleaner assembly. I had to spray it and then go to the key as I was checking by myself, it did sound like it would almost like to start but not quite. If the coil were bad, could I be getting some spark but not powerful enough?
Next I guess will be a compression check, but at 96k miles I would think this shouldn't be a problem.
I swapped out the pump relay and fuel filter for fun, not much different. I did notice, on checking the pressure in the rail, when I first checked it it went up to only 30 psi this time. It dropped to 20 after 5 or so minutes. After waiting I checked again, this time it went to 40, but then I heard a small pop or cracking kind of noise and the pressure dropped 12# or so in less than a minute. Couldn't pinpoint the noise cause it was too quick, but sounded like up passenger side front of motor. Pump? injectors? Anything coordinate with the code 54 + crank only no start?
its late, I've been drinking, but here is the latest, test light on injectors, light is on as soon as I touch them, but does go from bright to dim, (blinking) while cranking, is this how it should be?
Also put the light on the fuel pump source, light comes on for two seconds or so when key first turned on, but despite relieving pressure, do not run the pump again, could it be as easy as the fuel pump?
Last edited by adamsbomb; Jun 24, 2006 at 03:59 AM.







