Coolant Temperature Switch..?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
From: Weston Fl
Coolant Temperature Switch..?
I've been having issues with my '88 and the A/C. I did some research and found out that the coolant temperature switch went out and even got the part number.
(Found from this thread)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...erature+Switch
My question is where does the part go? I'd hate to buy this new switch and then not even be able to find out where to put it
If someone had a picture of where to put it, it would help even more! If not, a detailed description would help me greatly.
I've been having so many problems with this car that I'm seriously thinking about fixing it up enough to get me some good money and then going to and buying me a C5 or another Mustang =(
~Derek
(Found from this thread)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...erature+Switch
My question is where does the part go? I'd hate to buy this new switch and then not even be able to find out where to put it
If someone had a picture of where to put it, it would help even more! If not, a detailed description would help me greatly.
I've been having so many problems with this car that I'm seriously thinking about fixing it up enough to get me some good money and then going to and buying me a C5 or another Mustang =(
~Derek
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
From: Weston Fl
Originally Posted by bogus
I think the answer is within that thread. It's on the AC line near the manifold.
But the new problem is that I see 2 switches there. One is a large one, which has a light green wire on it, then there's a smaller one with a dark green wire on it.I'm not sure which it is =(
~Derek
EDIT: I actually just found another switch, which is connected directly to the block, right by the headers. Would this be it?
Last edited by Fork501; Jun 22, 2006 at 06:23 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
If memory serves me well (and it might not) it'd be the large one. It's the high pressure side. I'm not at home with the car or my manuals to check for sure. You can un plug it with the car on and see if the fans run. That will tell you for sure. That is providing the fans are all operational.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by Fork501
EDIT: I actually just found another switch, which is connected directly to the block, right by the headers. Would this be it?
When you said CTS and started talking about the AC I was a bit confused and just thought you really meant AC high pressure fan switch. The true CTS is located just by the thermostat housing on the intake manifold under the front of the throttle body. You have to remove the breather accordian tube to get at it easily.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
From: Weston Fl
Originally Posted by skateparkdave
No. Thats the temp switch for your temp gauge.
When you said CTS and started talking about the AC I was a bit confused and just thought you really meant AC high pressure fan switch. The true CTS is located just by the thermostat housing on the intake manifold under the front of the throttle body. You have to remove the breather accordian tube to get at it easily.
When you said CTS and started talking about the AC I was a bit confused and just thought you really meant AC high pressure fan switch. The true CTS is located just by the thermostat housing on the intake manifold under the front of the throttle body. You have to remove the breather accordian tube to get at it easily.
I think it is related to my a/c issue. My car overheated the other day when I turned on the a/c and it ended up boiling all of my coolant over into the resevoir and causing a nice little smoke scene =)
~Derek
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
A code 14 is for the Coolant Temp Sensor not the Coolant Temp Switch. It is located on the front of the intake manifold next to the CSV switch and is pointing towards the fan(s). It is a two wire harness one wire is yellow and the other is black (at least on y 86 it is). From you post it looks like you might have a FSM and the sensor can be ohmed to rule out that it's the problem.
F*---------C*--------OHMS
210--------100--------185
160--------70----------450
100--------38----------1800
70---------20----------3400
40---------4-----------7500
No need to go any lower if you don't live at the north pole.
F*---------C*--------OHMS
210--------100--------185
160--------70----------450
100--------38----------1800
70---------20----------3400
40---------4-----------7500
No need to go any lower if you don't live at the north pole.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
It sounds like you have multiple troubles. Better make sure the fans are working. I will be able to help you more when I get home tonight.
Providing the fans work you can make them run by paper clipping the ALDL
but again, I'm not with my car or manuals to tell you how. I know for a fact that the large red wire at each of your fan relays is supposed to have 12 volts positive at all times so you can check that with a test light. If you have no power there then your fusible link(s) are blown at the power distribution block down low behind battery. If they are blown you need to investigate as to why they blew.
Your CTS is where we said and replacing it should solve that code. Drain a lil' coolant before pulling it to save a spill.
Providing the fans work you can make them run by paper clipping the ALDL
but again, I'm not with my car or manuals to tell you how. I know for a fact that the large red wire at each of your fan relays is supposed to have 12 volts positive at all times so you can check that with a test light. If you have no power there then your fusible link(s) are blown at the power distribution block down low behind battery. If they are blown you need to investigate as to why they blew.
Your CTS is where we said and replacing it should solve that code. Drain a lil' coolant before pulling it to save a spill.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
From: Weston Fl
Originally Posted by skateparkdave
It sounds like you have multiple troubles. Better make sure the fans are working. I will be able to help you more when I get home tonight.
Providing the fans work you can make them run by paper clipping the ALDL
but again, I'm not with my car or manuals to tell you how. I know for a fact that the large red wire at each of your fan relays is supposed to have 12 volts positive at all times so you can check that with a test light. If you have no power there then your fusible link(s) are blown at the power distribution block down low behind battery. If they are blown you need to investigate as to why they blew.
Your CTS is where we said and replacing it should solve that code. Drain a lil' coolant before pulling it to save a spill.
Providing the fans work you can make them run by paper clipping the ALDL
but again, I'm not with my car or manuals to tell you how. I know for a fact that the large red wire at each of your fan relays is supposed to have 12 volts positive at all times so you can check that with a test light. If you have no power there then your fusible link(s) are blown at the power distribution block down low behind battery. If they are blown you need to investigate as to why they blew.
Your CTS is where we said and replacing it should solve that code. Drain a lil' coolant before pulling it to save a spill.
~Derek
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
If that was blown before and blew again then I'm guessing it's the culprit.
The question is, why is it blowing??
You should trace your wires out all the way to the relays and then to the fans themselves from the relays to see if there's a visibly rubbed or exposed spot grounding to short. Lets hope you find a short and one or both of your fans doesn't have a problem.
Unlike my 90 I think the 88 had one 20 amp fusible link for both fans. My 90 has two. One for each. If it were me and the fuse blows again after replacing. I would pull one relay at a time and put like a 15 amp fuse in and see if one single fan blows the fuse and the other fan doesn't. This will help narrow it down to which fan is the problem. If it blows individually no matter which fan it is on then it's a short inbetween the fuse and relays somewhere and not the fans. Obviously if it only blows on one fan and not the other then that fan or it's relay or wiring from the relay to that fan has a problem.
Hope that makes sence. 
The question is, why is it blowing??
You should trace your wires out all the way to the relays and then to the fans themselves from the relays to see if there's a visibly rubbed or exposed spot grounding to short. Lets hope you find a short and one or both of your fans doesn't have a problem.
Unlike my 90 I think the 88 had one 20 amp fusible link for both fans. My 90 has two. One for each. If it were me and the fuse blows again after replacing. I would pull one relay at a time and put like a 15 amp fuse in and see if one single fan blows the fuse and the other fan doesn't. This will help narrow it down to which fan is the problem. If it blows individually no matter which fan it is on then it's a short inbetween the fuse and relays somewhere and not the fans. Obviously if it only blows on one fan and not the other then that fan or it's relay or wiring from the relay to that fan has a problem.
Hope that makes sence.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
From: Weston Fl
Originally Posted by skateparkdave
If that was blown before and blew again then I'm guessing it's the culprit.
The question is, why is it blowing??
You should trace your wires out all the way to the relays and then to the fans themselves from the relays to see if there's a visibly rubbed or exposed spot grounding to short. Lets hope you find a short and one or both of your fans doesn't have a problem.
Unlike my 90 I think the 88 had one 20 amp fusible link for both fans. My 90 has two. One for each. If it were me and the fuse blows again after replacing. I would pull one relay at a time and put like a 15 amp fuse in and see if one single fan blows the fuse and the other fan doesn't. This will help narrow it down to which fan is the problem. If it blows individually no matter which fan it is on then it's a short inbetween the fuse and relays somewhere and not the fans. Obviously if it only blows on one fan and not the other then that fan or it's relay or wiring from the relay to that fan has a problem.
Hope that makes sence.
The question is, why is it blowing??
You should trace your wires out all the way to the relays and then to the fans themselves from the relays to see if there's a visibly rubbed or exposed spot grounding to short. Lets hope you find a short and one or both of your fans doesn't have a problem.
Unlike my 90 I think the 88 had one 20 amp fusible link for both fans. My 90 has two. One for each. If it were me and the fuse blows again after replacing. I would pull one relay at a time and put like a 15 amp fuse in and see if one single fan blows the fuse and the other fan doesn't. This will help narrow it down to which fan is the problem. If it blows individually no matter which fan it is on then it's a short inbetween the fuse and relays somewhere and not the fans. Obviously if it only blows on one fan and not the other then that fan or it's relay or wiring from the relay to that fan has a problem.
Hope that makes sence.
It's a long story, but here's the thread I used to solve the issue:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1392613
~Derek
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Well after reading that thread I'm still not sure what that is but it may have contributed to burning your fans fusible links if thats not for them.
Mine run from here at the distribution block behind battery. You can see my nitrous fuses but under them those dull orange wires are the fusible links, Check to see if you have any seperated or swelled like a snake that just ate a rat.
Mine run from here at the distribution block behind battery. You can see my nitrous fuses but under them those dull orange wires are the fusible links, Check to see if you have any seperated or swelled like a snake that just ate a rat.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
The running current for the fan motor is 14 amps and the starting current is about 35 amps which is why your inline 30 amp fuse doesn't hold up, it is not large enough to handle the starting current for the fan motor. You really should install the correct fusible link in place of the inline fuse you connected. An inline fuse can handle much higher starting current and it doesn't have the resistance that a fuse clip has to the fuse. The starting and running current passing through the clip resistance makes the fuse run hot and this fatiques the fuse and causes a short life and makes you keep wondering why you have to keep replacing the fuse all the time.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by jfb
The running current for the fan motor is 14 amps and the starting current is about 35 amps which is why your inline 30 amp fuse doesn't hold up, it is not large enough to handle the starting current for the fan motor. You really should install the correct fusible link in place of the inline fuse you connected. An inline fuse can handle much higher starting current and it doesn't have the resistance that a fuse clip has to the fuse. The starting and running current passing through the clip resistance makes the fuse run hot and this fatiques the fuse and causes a short life and makes you keep wondering why you have to keep replacing the fuse all the time.
with jfb, I put a 30 amp fuse in place of the fusible link, didn't last very long, so I replaced it with the correct fusible link, available at NAPPA. Been working fine ever since.
