My wife bought me a new set of longtube Hedmen headers for my 86E for our anniversary. I want to get my exhaust system put in along with my headers, but right now, I don't have the cash for the exhaust.

First question, should I go ahead and put on the headers right now and then later on do the exhaust or should I wait and do everything at the same time.

Second question, if I am going to put on the headers now, other than just bolting them on, what else do I need to do. I never done this before , but I am will to give it a try. It already came with a gasket, do I need to put any sealeant on at, and which type. Also, my o2 sensor (at least, I think thats what that is), what do I do with that. My new header does not have a place for it.

I want to do it right, so if you guys think I should take it to an exhuast shop, then tell me. You won't hurt my feelings.

 

Sealent on exhaust?You need to find a good shop.

 

No, Sealent on the gasket

 

This might help explain what is to be done....from Square's webpage.

http://members.***.net/effergy/vette...r_Install.html

You will need a 3 wire heated O2 sensor with header to keep the ECM in closed loop. Place it in the Y pipe back from the headers.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...e d+o2+sensor

Headers are not the easiest mod to install.

 

I also think you will want them to put in taps for your O2 sensors. These are part of a closed loop feedback system that constantly feeds information back to the PCM to adjust AFR for rich/lean conditions.

Also, these have to be installed from underneath the car which is a real PITA!!!!


just my $0.02

 

With headers the exhaust temp doesn't get hot enough to keep it in closed loop especially at idle. The bung will need to be in the Y to place the heated O2 sensor and there are threads on here that tell you how to wire it. One wire is 12v, one is ground, and one is signal to ECM. If you don't have time and patience I would take it to a exhaust/muffler shop.

 

RRT- can you repost those links...they do not work????

 

use high temp gasket sealent for exhaust manifolds.....Poop Bouys, Autozone, any auto supply shop carries this stuff

 

My website has a page on header installation.

You will need to have an O2 bung welded into the headers, preferably in the collector. It MUST be installed, its one of the most important sensors on the car.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ated+O2+sensor

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ated+O2+sensor

You can do a search on heated O2 sensor and header install and find a lot of info.

 

Lets see:

http://members.***.net/effergy/vette...r_Install.html

 

I would store them until you can take them and the car to a good exhaust shop. You're part way there.

 

You can, and I would, install the headers, now. You can do the rest of the exhaust when finances permit.

*I* have never used any kind of sealant on the header gaskets. You WILL want the re-tighten the header bolts after each of the first few heat cycles, to prevent a leak from developing.

You will have to keep your (some) O2 sensor. Are the headers ceramic coated? Did the headers come with the reducers? Are the reducers coated? Is there a bung in the reducers for the O2? Your present O2 sensor is in your left side exhaust pipe, just below where it is attached to the exhaust manifold. Ideally, you want the O2 sensor located as close to the engine as possible, like it is now. That ain't gonna happen. If the headers aren't coated, you can have an exhaust shop weld a bung into the collector of the headers. One manufacturer even installs the bung in one of the tubes to get it closer to the heat of the engine. If the headers are coated, you don't want to mess with the ceramic. Also, if not coated, the O2 bung could be welded into the reducers. The last choice is in your existing "Y" pipe.

I would install the headers at home, and then, when ready, drive the loud, likely open looped car, straight to the exhaust shop, where you have made prior arrangements. Have them make the connection between the reducers and the "Y" pipe, and also take care of the O2 bung and O2 sensor. Depending on where the O2 is mounted, it is very likely you will have to convert to a heated O2 as mentioned above. Enjoy your project.

RACE ON!!!

 

They are ceramic coated. The reducers don't seem to be coated and no bung . They are part # 68446 and are listed in Jegs.

 

Should I use the gaskets that came with the headers or should I get different ones.

Also, I found this under the tech tips Heated O2 Sensor for Long Tube Headers -- 1 of 1. Will this work after they have made a bung for it on the reducer?

 

I used gaskets called Percy's, they are soft aluminum. They are available at Auto Zone. I used them on my header to head connection and also on the collector to reducer connection. No leaks at all. Fel-Pro also makes a fine gasket but they are not aluminum. I've found the gaskets that come with the headers leave a lot to be desired.
Any competent exhaust shop will have o2 sensor bungs, have them weld one in your driver's side reducer then install a 3 wire heated sensor. One wire gets spliced into your original o2 wire, the other two go to ground and a keyed power source. Mine had two black wires and a white one. The white one is the o2 wire, the other two are power and ground, it makes no difference which wire you use it is not polarity sensitive. I grounded mine on a bell housing bolt then ran the other to the fan relay on your driver's side wheel well just below the master cylinder. The blue wire on the relay connector is the wire you want to tap into. This completes the o2 sensor installation. I did away with my original y pipe and fabricated my own exhaust but you can do the same, just tell the exhaust shop what you want. I went from the headers into the trans tunnel where I put two high flow cats and then an x pipe and finally into my original tailpipes. Makes a nice sounding true dual exhaust.

 

put em on and get an HEATED O2 SENSOR ! wont stay in close loop with out it. as far for the install get a set of jack stands get the whole car in the air 2 notches left on the stand supports. slip the drivers side in from the top and the pass side from the bottom( slide it under the car with the gasket flange up reach in from the top tilt em up at the front and slightly out and she will pop right in there for ya ) i used 3/8"socket head cap screws and small outside diameter washers in all bolts except 1 the back bolt on the pass side, hex head used there and dont for get to use antiseize on them. had my headers and exhaust on by myself in 2 hrs

 

The starter will have to come out to get the right side in. Once in position, start a couple of bolts(loose), then re-install the starter. You will need to make a new bracket for the dip stick also. I used the supplied gaskets and have no leaks, but i did use good header bolts(Breslin). I welded in the O2 bung into the collector adapter. These headers are easily tied into the factory "Y" just aft of where the pre cats are. You could cut the "Y" to fit and then drive to the exhaust shop to have them weld on the collector adapter and O2 bung. I found the wiring harness on right side ended up being right against the header. I was able to disconnect the fuel lines at filter and reroute the wire bundle to the other side of fuel lines, which gave me the clearance i needed.

 

I have these same headers in my 86. They come with a ball and socket style collector so unless you can weld up exhaust pipe I would recommend an exhaust shop do that for you. #1 get rid of the junk exhaust manifold gasket that come with the headers and get a quality gasket of your choice. You won't be sorry as exhaust leaks are a PITA and good gaskets seal well. I went with Fel-Pro on mine and have had zero leaks in the past three years, even though the Hedmans are cheaper the flange is good quality and seals well with a good quality gasket. You can install the headers yourself with the advice already given but be aware you will to remove all the AIR Pump emissions from the car as the headers have no provissions for that stuff. The O2 sensor on mine is mounted on the collector not the header itself and I have had no problems as of yet. If you want some pics of the final results let me know. I really like my Hedman headers, great performance and better than I expected quality for the price. My buddies all have TPIS headers and mine still look as good as theirs after three seasons.

 

I was reading on some of the links that I would need a smaller starter. Did you keep your stock starter?