Wheel bearings-torque values? (90 pics)
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
It's about 170 lbs. Set your tq wrench to 150 and muscle it a little past that. That's what I did.
Better too tight than not enough. It will be easy as pie to remove the next time around.
Better too tight than not enough. It will be easy as pie to remove the next time around.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
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From: The Motor City
Originally Posted by Brimis
In essence, I guess one should use a torque wrench.
I do love the stories about 4 foot fence poles etc......mine is a front shock tube off a harley I had
Last edited by mseven; Jun 30, 2006 at 09:14 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Lenoir City TN
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid
Here's a general shop tip. Get a 3/4" drive ratchet or breaker bar for such uses. They are so much better in these cases. There is virtually no power lost through flex as with a 1/2" breaker bar. Even if you don't have any 3/4" drive sockets, you can just use an adapter w/ your 1/2" drive sockets. And, when you put that cheater pipe on there, it will break loose or break something! 
.
.
and got out the 3/4" drive with the 8' bar and that took it right off, but I thought the car was going to climb over the wheel blocks when I took it off, I diffently see what you mean by no flex in the 3/4" drive system, amazing the difference.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 17,640
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From: Lenoir City TN
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Originally Posted by Joe C
...same here. set my torque wrench at 150# (max setting), and gave it "just a little more". figure i got to be in the 165 ballpark. BTW, i'm reading you guys trying to wrench those 36mm spindle nuts off. if you have an air compresser, (if not, you should buy one!) - get a 1/2 inch drive impact wrench, and a axle nut socket. it will take those axle nuts off like a hot knife going through butter, as well as those peskey T-55 cap screws.
I tried my IR titanium and it just basically said you want me to do what? Just sat there and did nothing.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 75
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From: chicago Illinois
St. Jude Donor '06
Dead Horse?
Hello,
Noticed some of the fellas are on line tonite. Been reading previous threads. So not to open a new one. I have my 92 LT1 a/t 81k mi.up on jacks. I have removed the large axle nut, With impact. The torx 55's are no picnic. I have put PB blaster 5 or 6 times, let it soak over-nite.Heated the threads cleaned them. looked to make sure they do appear to be right hand threads. Have put an 1/2" impact on them. Will lift the hub to get at the top one. The Haynes says to take the tie rod off. Please advise. I'm sure I missed something. Really greatful to our forum. Thanks in advance. Larry
Noticed some of the fellas are on line tonite. Been reading previous threads. So not to open a new one. I have my 92 LT1 a/t 81k mi.up on jacks. I have removed the large axle nut, With impact. The torx 55's are no picnic. I have put PB blaster 5 or 6 times, let it soak over-nite.Heated the threads cleaned them. looked to make sure they do appear to be right hand threads. Have put an 1/2" impact on them. Will lift the hub to get at the top one. The Haynes says to take the tie rod off. Please advise. I'm sure I missed something. Really greatful to our forum. Thanks in advance. Larry
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
No need to remove tie rods, the T55's are removed counter-clockwise. Sometimes if you give it a quick jerk in the clockwise (tighten) and then reverse it they come loose if they are stubborn.
You may have to move the driveshaft a bit to get the socket on there, terrible leverage points!
You may have to move the driveshaft a bit to get the socket on there, terrible leverage points!
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Advanced
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 75
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From: chicago Illinois
St. Jude Donor '06
Thank you brother. Man it is a terrible spot on top. Headed out to the garage now. I kind of thought the Haynes was full of it. There are some helpfull pictures sometimes, that the red and white manual doesn't have. You gave me enough confidence to try it again. Thanks Larry.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 75
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From: chicago Illinois
St. Jude Donor '06
Hi,
Removed them after 3 days of trying. The heads of the bolts do look a little worn on the remove side. I soaked them for days with PB blaster and heated them with a propane torch. The impact wrench would not remove the two I coould get it on. Cuisinartvette was right. Just a lot of effort. I didn't use a cheater bar, couldn't get the car high enough. Put it all back together and it still clicks. Checked it out on another thread. It seems there is a washer that can be changed. The teflon wears off and then it clicks.I'll post the thread here later.
Thanks lbreen
Removed them after 3 days of trying. The heads of the bolts do look a little worn on the remove side. I soaked them for days with PB blaster and heated them with a propane torch. The impact wrench would not remove the two I coould get it on. Cuisinartvette was right. Just a lot of effort. I didn't use a cheater bar, couldn't get the car high enough. Put it all back together and it still clicks. Checked it out on another thread. It seems there is a washer that can be changed. The teflon wears off and then it clicks.I'll post the thread here later.
Thanks lbreen