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Wheel bearings-torque values? (90 pics)

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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 01:32 AM
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Default Wheel bearings-torque values? (90 pics)

Changed out the rears today

Had to buy a few things to do it
-36mm impact socket, T55 torx socket


Remove cotter pin and castle nut-Your 36 mm nut comes off next, youll need a 1/2" drive breaker bar, a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter (36mm socket is 3/4" drive) a piece of pipe, or a jack handle. Oh, eat your wheaties, these things are on there pretty tight.



I removed the caliper bolts next, cant recall size (15mm)



Next come the three torx bolts from the rear of the hub assembly. May need to rotate the halfshaft a bit so you can access them all.




Reassmeble in reverse order.

What do you guys typically tighten these too? Aint no way Im buying a 300lb torque wrench. My grinding noise is gone, have to put a few miles on her tomorrow. Put the BMAD on too, did a little leak chasing and p.m. also.


Glad I tore it apart, every single one of my lug nuts were loose!

Last edited by cv67; Jun 25, 2006 at 02:49 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 03:07 AM
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Check Scorp508's web page. I am pretty sure he has the spec there.

I tightened mine to the spec, and then hit them with a breaker bar... I have no clue where it is.
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 04:27 AM
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It's about 170 lbs. Set your tq wrench to 150 and muscle it a little past that. That's what I did.

Better too tight than not enough. It will be easy as pie to remove the next time around.
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 04:28 AM
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Hey gringo, is that piece with the brake caliper mounts seperate from the rear knuckle? Sandwiched between it and the bearing maybe?
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Hey gringo, is that piece with the brake caliper mounts seperate from the rear knuckle? Sandwiched between it and the bearing maybe?

yup. Calipers may not have to come off, either-could leave them attached to the bracket. Didnt like the idea of letting everything hang by the brake line.

@#$, those are some ugly brakes!

Last edited by cv67; Jun 25, 2006 at 09:32 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 04:37 PM
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After about 500 miles put a wrench to the bearings and make sure they are still tight. I have found with the last few ones have replaced that they seem to loosen up a bit as they bed in.

Cheers,

Lawrence
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 05:34 PM
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FWIW, the axle nuts have zero effect on the bearing preload.
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 05:53 PM
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164 on the 36mm nut.
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 09:26 PM
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Place the socket on the nut, tighten it as best you can, then get a pipe, place it over the socket wrench and stand on it. Assuming you weigh in the area of 170 lbs. your good to go.
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Brimis
Place the socket on the nut, tighten it as best you can, then get a pipe, place it over the socket wrench and stand on it. Assuming you weigh in the area of 170 lbs. your good to go.
In other words Ron, get your girlfriend to stand on it.
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
In other words Ron, get your girlfriend to stand on it.

Originally Posted by Brimis
Place the socket on the nut, tighten it as best you can, then get a pipe, place it over the socket wrench and stand on it. Assuming you weigh in the area of 170 lbs. your good to go.
Let's see.....170lbs. on "X"length of pipe, jump on it (height unknown) and that yeilds 164lbs. torque............interesting mathamatics there.

Last edited by mseven; Jun 25, 2006 at 11:26 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
FWIW, the axle nuts have zero effect on the bearing preload.
That may be, but most of rears I have put on in the past couple of years have had the nut loosen after a few hundred miles. If I tighten them back up, they tend to stay tight after that. This did not seem to be the case before about 2000 or 2001.

I started doing this after I had a $225 AC Delco rear bearing fail after one track day and about 1000 miles total. Now I just use the cheep ones and with retorquing them before every track day, I get more life out of them.

Cheers,

Lawrence
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mseven


Let's see.....170lbs. on "X"length of pipe, jump on it (height unknown) and that yeilds 164lbs. torque............interesting mathamatics there.
Actually, the post reads stand, not jump, you may fall and get hurt.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Brimis
Actually, the post reads stand, not jump, you may fall and get hurt.
I 'stand 'corrected....

Last edited by mseven; Jun 28, 2006 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 10:10 PM
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I torque mine to 200 lbs.-ft. Loosening over time is not uncommon at the stock spec. Nuts this size will take 200 w/ no problem.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 10:25 PM
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Default REAR Brakes

Hey guys maybe somebody here on the forum can help me. I did the same thing on my 85 and at the same time replaced the rear rotors and pads. Now my rear pads don't make contact as far down on the rotor as before. So I'm lost as to what could I have done wrong. Any help will be appreciated. TIA
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mseven
I 'stand 'corrected....
In essence, I guess one should use a torque wrench.
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To Wheel bearings-torque values? (90 pics)

Old Jun 29, 2006 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Oh, eat your wheaties, these things are on there pretty tight.



When I took mine off I broke two (2) snap-on 1/2" drive 4" extensions because I had to have the tire on the ground (it just kept spinning) and in order to get the breaker bar to clear the wheel I had to use the extensions, I then went and put a 3/4" drive with 8' cheater bar in order to remove the nut, though this was only on the drivers side, passenger side came off easier.

Bob
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rspreng86


When I took mine off I broke two (2) snap-on 1/2" drive 4" extensions because I had to have the tire on the ground (it just kept spinning) and in order to get the breaker bar to clear the wheel I had to use the extensions, I then went and put a 3/4" drive with 8' cheater bar in order to remove the nut, though this was only on the drivers side, passenger side came off easier.

Bob
Here's a general shop tip. Get a 3/4" drive ratchet or breaker bar for such uses. They are so much better in these cases. There is virtually no power lost through flex as with a 1/2" breaker bar. Even if you don't have any 3/4" drive sockets, you can just use an adapter w/ your 1/2" drive sockets. And, when you put that cheater pipe on there, it will break loose or break something! .
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 09:56 PM
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My 1/2" Craftsmen ratchet held up to over 600 ft-lbs on these rear nuts. 4 foot cheater bar with me bouncing on one end.
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