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After doing abit of tuning to the fuel trim tables, my misfire/hesitation is all but gone, when the engine heats up there is consistant spark retard of 0.3-0.9*, open or closed loop seems to have no effect, LT4 Knock module is in place, its not picking up any undue knocks. Seems to be perfectly ok til the engine gets abit of heat into it. Would the ICM have anything to do with this issue? Thanks in advance people
Heat certainly can affect an ICM's operation. I would remove it, then take it to AutoZone or NAPA for testing.
Thats good advice, but there is a bit of a problem.... Im in Australia, the nearest AutoZone or NAPA will be over 12,000 miles away!!! But thanks for your input mate
no, it's tomorrow there today... so he would be here the day before last.
I will give anyone who can figure the prior sentence out a free beer... cause I sure can't.
check the FSM, I think there are some tests you can run on the ICM.
Another trick is to hit it with cold... like a computer duster can upside down or something.
another thought, inspect the ICM harness connections. Jet-Jock chased a nasty problem with his 93 and it was aimed at a bad ICM and a bad harness... the new ICM would not make contact correctly.
They can't test the icm for a 94 vette. I find this out when I brought mine in, they checked their book and their testing stuff wont work for it.
She's apples mate, i wont be taking it in!! Its too far!!
Thanks Bogus, i have been making progress with the VE tuning, and got it running alot closer to perfect when the engine is colder, ive noticed in a couple of my datamaster logs that the spark retard will start to creep in at about the same time as the engine would be starting to get warmer. I havent had a chance to really look at it in regards to shifting the module yet, is there any good reason to prevent me from doing this? (can i trade my free beer for a chivas regal mate? )
Last edited by Casethecorvetteman; Jun 30, 2006 at 12:20 PM.
She's apples mate, i wont be taking it in!! Its too far!!
Thanks Bogus, i have been making progress with the VE tuning, and got it running alot closer to perfect when the engine is colder, ive noticed in a couple of my datamaster logs that the spark retard will start to creep in at about the same time as the engine would be starting to get warmer. I havent had a chance to really look at it in regards to shifting the module yet, is there any good reason to prevent me from doing this? (can i trade my free beer for a chivas regal mate? )
if you are having a heat relating drift, I would start with the ICM...
I didn't know it was untestable... but the FSM has some tests for it re: my 92... perhaps some DVM tests are available? Perhaps the timing creep is an indicator of failure?
As for the free beer, you didn't make my senseless sentence senseable. So there.
But mate i figured out pretty quickly it was load of meaningless dribble!!!
Case, if you can get your hands on some heat sink compound(like Arctic silver), remove your ICM, clean off the old, probably dryed out compound, re-apply new compound over entire surface of ICM(thin coat is all that is necessary, then re-assemble. The heat sink compound is just as important as the ICM itself......
so WTF day is it over there anyway, if today is Saturday, 10:56am, July 1, 2006 in Austin Texas??
Mike it was 1:56am Sunday the 2nd of July when you wrote that time ubove, and its now 2:15 am
I have a fair bit of thermal grease (i have the CoolerMaster stuff) around for when i build or fix computers. As i rule ive never really trusted the standard stuff, although the AMD heat sinks have pretty good stuff these days.
Mike it was 1:56am Sunday the 2nd of July when you wrote that time ubove, and its now 2:15 am
I have a fair bit of thermal grease (i have the CoolerMaster stuff) around for when i build or fix computers. As i rule ive never really trusted the standard stuff, although the AMD heat sinks have pretty good stuff these days.
I also use CoolerMaster heat sinks on computer builds. What do you think of the heatsink material that comes pre-applied to these things???
The white stuff? Its another one of those untrusted items from my overclocking days!!! Since you only need the smallest little thin layer and only big enough to cover the core (unless its a later CPU) the little tube lasts a long time. So i just always used it
What do you reckon about moving the ICM? Didnt really have time to look today (and its too bloody dark now!!) to see where id move it to, but im open to sugestions if anyone has any.
The white stuff? Its another one of those untrusted items from my overclocking days!!! Since you only need the smallest little thin layer and only big enough to cover the core (unless its a later CPU) the little tube lasts a long time. So i just always used it
What do you reckon about moving the ICM? Didnt really have time to look today (and its too bloody dark now!!) to see where id move it to, but im open to sugestions if anyone has any.
instead of moving it, you may want to put washers between the ICM heatsink and the engine block. I did this on my '95. Here is a good writeup on it. Simple mod.....
instead of moving it, you may want to put washers between the ICM heatsink and the engine block. I did this on my '95. Here is a good writeup on it. Simple mod.....
I've seen that b4, that mod originates from LT1 Camaro guys, but will of course work on any LT1.
BTW Case, make SURE whatever heat sink compound you use can handle the heat range which the ICM will see mounted as it is to the passenger side cylinder head.
Check out Artic Ceramique, from the makers of Artic Silver, and note the peak and long term heat ranges plus its tendency not to run or bleed: