1985 TPI injector replacement
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
1985 TPI injector replacement
Decided to roll up my sleeves and get familiar with my vette... I was on a roll, until I realized I couldn't remove the fuel rail w/o at least loosening the lower bolts on the runners where they connect to the manifold. The passenger side was easy enough, but the driver side rear is impossible! No way I could conceive to reach the torx bolt that is hidden under the distributor, behind the electrical wiring for the injectors, behind the "thingey" that protrudes from the firewall, behind the metal cruise control vacuum line... you get the idea. Impossible location. I tried following the instruction provided by "SamLam" (which was excellent BTW) for removing w/o pulling runners, but the Torx bolt holding the rail in place seems overly tight. Tried WD40 about 5 times over the course of a day with no luck. Can't get enough torque on the bolt using a T40 torx, 1/4 box wrench and 8 inch breaker. The Torx just keeps breaking free - can't keep the bit in the bolt. Any expert advice? Do I need special tools, or do I need a good mechanic??
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 15
From: backwoods upstate ny
maybe the ol' steel bolt meets aluminum manifold, falls in love, etc..or the ol' taiwan torx bit horror show.
steel bolts in aluminum generate a corrosion build-up between the two that can virtually weld the two together....penetrant like 'aero kroil' with 8 hr soak may work...air driven impact wrench , electrics are second choice, just a center punch and a hammer for about 5 min if impacts are not available, may get em.
if the tool keeps slipping, you may not be PERFECTLY aligned...the tool end may need to be ground to a square, sharp end (bench grinder with extreme caution or hand held 4'' grinder with torx bit locked in bench vise--chill the torx bit IMMEDIATELY in cold water after grinding to re-temper it ...if its a taiwan made tool, discard and get something better.
once you get the torx head bolts out, go to a fastener supply store and get metric socket (allen) head bolts to replace em
steel bolts in aluminum generate a corrosion build-up between the two that can virtually weld the two together....penetrant like 'aero kroil' with 8 hr soak may work...air driven impact wrench , electrics are second choice, just a center punch and a hammer for about 5 min if impacts are not available, may get em.
if the tool keeps slipping, you may not be PERFECTLY aligned...the tool end may need to be ground to a square, sharp end (bench grinder with extreme caution or hand held 4'' grinder with torx bit locked in bench vise--chill the torx bit IMMEDIATELY in cold water after grinding to re-temper it ...if its a taiwan made tool, discard and get something better.
once you get the torx head bolts out, go to a fastener supply store and get metric socket (allen) head bolts to replace em
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 286
Likes: 1
From: Washington DC
Pull the wiper motor out. Anything you see completely in your way, remove it. You will save more time in the end just removing components out of your way.....That's my opinion, at least....
Also, I agree with redrose - buy a QUALITY torx bit. I'm a tech @ Land Rover and learned very fast that there are certains things you don't skimp on. Torx bits are one of these.
Remove whatevers in your way before you fudge up the head of the bolt - then you'll really be in trouble!
Also, I agree with redrose - buy a QUALITY torx bit. I'm a tech @ Land Rover and learned very fast that there are certains things you don't skimp on. Torx bits are one of these.
Remove whatevers in your way before you fudge up the head of the bolt - then you'll really be in trouble!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
That backwards bolt is doable, at least you found it before prying on the tubes.
Use a torx bit, with a 3" extension, then a swivel joint, then another extension to your ratchet.
The lower one sucks with the cold start line there.
I replaced all mine with allen heads, and it's easy as pie to remove now.
Use a torx bit, with a 3" extension, then a swivel joint, then another extension to your ratchet.
The lower one sucks with the cold start line there.
I replaced all mine with allen heads, and it's easy as pie to remove now.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
The Torx bit was precision ground (although, I did have one that wasn't, so the point about cheap bits is well taken). I tried the 3 inch extension, universal joint, then second 3 inch extension to get at the Torx on the runner bolt. But, again, no luck. I decided to let the pros handle this one. In the end, I'll have spent more on towing and labor than if I had just brought it in. But, it was worth a try. Thanks for the help.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
The solution...
There is a long TORX bit that is fitted into a socket than can reach the unreachable bolt. It is approx. 6 inches long and as thin as a normal T40 Torx fitting. If I had know that, I'd have completed the job myself. My loss is your gain.. Hopefull, I'll benefit from someone elses advice in the future!
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: Torrington CT
I found a 1/4 inch drive torx and extension about 6" long with rachet. Works great for the one you need to get below the wiper motor and ge t by the metal vacum line and the cold start injector line. By the way it may start a storm but any steel bolts i remove from aluminum or the other way around i coat with anti-sieze. Next time -no problem
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,940
Likes: 5
From: Chesapeake VA
Just to add to the info in this post for future searches. Snap-On makes a 7" long T40 with a 3/8" drive on the end of it. With this tool you can reach the inner rear torx bolt without removing the distributor or the EGR tube. It will also remove the upper EGR tube bolt at the manifold that is almost completely blocked by the distributor.
If you plan on working on an L98, just go to their website and spend the $28 for the tool, it will save you hours of argravation.
Also, the cheap little torx bit kits sold in the auto parts stores and Sears (I think the brand name is "Libby" or some such) will strip them selves out on the T40 intake manifold bolts, and make you think you have a siezed bolt. Try a Snap-On or similar quality bit and watch the bolts come out easily and cleanly.
If you plan on working on an L98, just go to their website and spend the $28 for the tool, it will save you hours of argravation.
Also, the cheap little torx bit kits sold in the auto parts stores and Sears (I think the brand name is "Libby" or some such) will strip them selves out on the T40 intake manifold bolts, and make you think you have a siezed bolt. Try a Snap-On or similar quality bit and watch the bolts come out easily and cleanly.
