Last night after a short drive I shut my engine off, after about five minutes of sitting, I tried to restart my motor. It would turn over but did not even come close to firing. After waiting about 45 minutes, the motor restarted on the first try.

I assumed this was a vats problem (something similar happened over six months ago but did not recur since) and was not expecting a reoccurance. However, when driving along this morning, my motor cut out while I was driving along at about 40mph. After I pulled over, the car would not restart for about 30 minutes. Once I restarted the car, I tried to get home but the car cut out about five minutes down the road while driving along at about 30mph :mad

Not wanting to chance another stall in traffic I had the car flatbedded home.. After the car was unloaded I went inside for a while, came back to the car and restarted it. My fuel pressue is okay (about 40psi at idle with the vac lines attached). I tried to check the fuel injector rsistance but am not sure if I did it correctly. The resistance on all of them is the same (hot or cold), as was the case when I checked this last week while dinking around with the car.

I bypassed the heater core the night before last as my core was leaking and did get alot of water flowing out near the o2 sensor while rerouting the coolant hoses, I not sure how this could cause a problem but am mentioning it anyway.

Hooking my diacom up I couldn't get any codes from it and after running the car for a total of fifteen minutes in my driveway (really don't want to drive it around the way it is). The car cut out once while idling for five minutes. It restarted straight away. During this fifteen minutes, the car got up to temperature and the only thing that seems to be out is the BLM count which is at 110.

If anyone can suggest where else I can look it would be appreciated . If I can't sort it out by Monday I'll get the car to a mechanic, even though I'd prefer to sort it out myself. I've been driving it to work lately and enjoy it way too much to go without it...

 

Ignition module inside of distributor is bad.. When the crack they only work cold... When they heat they expand and die... when they cool they close back up and are fine... That's my guess anyway...

P.S. It won't always show on test either... Cold they usually work great...

 

The O2 sensor is on the driver side and the heater hoses are on the passenger side. If you dripped coolant on something, can you describe it as it is not the O2 sensro based on your description or I don't understand.

 

O2 has nothing to do with stalling... O2 determines open or closed loop running... Only way it will stall your is if you shove it into your intake plenum... Actually, most things under the hood are waterproof so might not have anything to do with this... 9 out of 10 stalls when hot and restarts once cooled will be the ignition module... Cheap part, replace it and see... Careful not to break any of the support parts when removing or reinstalling it... Plastic parts get brittle over time...

 

Sorry vettenuts, I should have mentioned in that paragraph that my car has been converted to right hand drive. On my car the heater core has been swapped over to the left hand side of the car. That is why I got water on the O2 sensor when playing with the coolant lines.

 

If VATS were activated, then the starter wouldn't crank. You don't have a VATS problem. My money is with the spark module in the distributor.

 

Thanks for the replies so far .

I just got back inside from the garage after removing the distributor module. As careful as I was I found out that the plastic on one of the plugs was REALLY brittle...

It's 1.35am on Sunday morning over here so I probably won't be able to buy a new module until at least Monday.

Looks like I'll be driving the beater to work for a few days :nopity

 

Brittle where it passes through to the outside right?? If you use anything to repair it make sure it is ok for electric related repairs... I used some of that insulator liquid you dip tools in the coat the handles... I also ordered a new one and stuffed it full of the Accel components (module, coil, rotor, cap)... Follow instruction to a tee when replacing this module... Think I recall it need the grease underneath it to function without cracking again... Don't recall everything but it should tell you in the instructions... Follow them or you'll be taking a junker to work next week too...

 

C4RAG beat me to it. :cheers:
I had a very similar problem when I had my 92 Z28. The only difference was, it never died on me when I was giving it gas, just when I was at idle or "coasting down". My start problem was identical though. Ended up being the ignition module.

 

It is/was brittle where the connections are made to the ignition module. Where it passes through to the outside was fine.

I bought a new module but unfortunately got gouged, there was only one place that had one in stock and seeing as I have plans for this weekend with my Corvette club I bought it rather than ordering one from the US myself like I usually do (otherwise I'd be waiting seven days to get the part). I only got time to finsih installing the new module tonight. When I went to restart the car to test it I found that... MY BATTERY IS NOW FLAT :rolleyes:

You are right on the dialectic grease, there was a slight amount left underneath the old module. I've also ordered new Accel dist cap, rotor, & coil and will also install them when they arrive.

I have the charger on it now and will try it in the morning.