C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Injector #s = the problem?

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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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Default Injector #s = the problem?

’89, 114k miles, I bought it new. Recently started to run ruff, fed it new plugs/cap/rotor which historically fixed the ruff problem. A little better only. Checked resistance of injectors: 7, 17, 5, 10, 17,17 7,3 ohms. I believe they are Multecs and are not known to last forever. I am going with failing injectors as the problem. MidAmeric has self-cleaning for $519 or Accel for $329. Looks like I have to take a few parts off to get to them, does not look as bad as the heater core though. I have fair skills but have not changed injector. Any comments or tricks in the replacement?
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by george4
’89, 114k miles, I bought it new. Recently started to run ruff, fed it new plugs/cap/rotor which historically fixed the ruff problem. A little better only. Checked resistance of injectors: 7, 17, 5, 10, 17,17 7,3 ohms. I believe they are Multecs and are not known to last forever. I am going with failing injectors as the problem. MidAmeric has self-cleaning for $519 or Accel for $329. Looks like I have to take a few parts off to get to them, does not look as bad as the heater core though. I have fair skills but have not changed injector. Any comments or tricks in the replacement?
I sent all of my '94 injectors to witchhunter.com and for $15 a piece they cleaned, inspected, refurbished, and provided me with a detail chart indicating each injectors performance before and after. And it included shipping. My vette runs like new. Give them a call before spending all of that $$. Good Luck!
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 11:46 PM
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I read somewhere that Multecs (standard for my year) were no rebuildable. What do you think?
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 12:03 AM
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If the resistance varies, cleaning won't help. I just cleaned the injectors on my 92 ZR-1(16, ouch) with great results. My 89 had a couple of bad injectors 6@17, 2@3, so I replaced them with Mustang 23lb'ers ($200 new), they work great, no modifications necessary. Pull the plenum and you should be able to change them fairly easily, although you may have to loosen the pass side runners to get the rail up far enough. Make sure you have no leaks after you put it together, lube the o rings well before installing.
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by zr1fred
If the resistance varies, cleaning won't help. I just cleaned the injectors on my 92 ZR-1(16, ouch) with great results. My 89 had a couple of bad injectors 6@17, 2@3, so I replaced them with Mustang 23lb'ers ($200 new), they work great, no modifications necessary. Pull the plenum and you should be able to change them fairly easily, although you may have to loosen the pass side runners to get the rail up far enough. Make sure you have no leaks after you put it together, lube the o rings well before installing.
Thanks for the feedback, new 23 s/24s seem the way to go. I will replace all. o rings with silicon or engine oil? How do you check for leaks?
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 12:34 AM
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Type of lubrication isn't that important (some recomend vasoline), the important thing is DON'T put them in dry, and use NEW upper o-rings. Visual inspection is best, and run it for a little while before you drive it to make sure they don't start leaking. The injctors should turn fairly easily in their bores after you put it all together. If they don't, you may have a o-ring problem.
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 12:36 AM
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I just went through this a while back . U lube the o-rings with engine oil . To check to see if there we're any leaks I just put the injectors on the fuel rail , then mounted the fuel rail on the engine ( like your putting back together ) , Hook back up the fuel lines and then turn key to on position to pressurize the rail . once u have pressure make sure your not leaking from anywhere. Forum Member Sam Lamb has a write up of how to remove the injectors with out taking the runners off. I didn't do it this way but wish i would have what a pain it was . Wasn't hard by any means just time consuming and a bit frustrating for me ( it was my first real project for the Vette or any car for that matter )

Good luck , Patsfan

Last edited by patsfan; Jul 7, 2006 at 09:04 AM.
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 12:54 AM
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Us 91 steel blue'ers have to stick together!
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by zr1fred
Us 91 steel blue'ers have to stick together!
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 10:31 AM
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Double check that, I believe you have to pull the runners on an 89.
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by patsfan05488
I just went through this a while back . U lube the o-rings with engine oil . To check to see if there we're any leaks I just put the injectors on the fuel rail , then mounted the fuel rail on the engine ( like your putting back together ) , Hook back up the fuel lines and then turn key to on position to pressurize the rail . once u have pressure make sure your not leaking from anywhere. Forum Member Sam Lamb has a write up of how to remove the injectors with out taking the runners off. I didn't do it this way but wish i would have what a pain it was . Wasn't hard by any means just time consuming and a bit frustrating for me ( it was my first real project for the Vette or any car for that matter )

Good luck , Patsfan
Thanks for the tips. How can I get the write up?
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 12:36 PM
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You can probably find them cheaper than Mid America (IMO, they tend to be fairly high priced). Try Summit Racing or Jegs.
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