Replacing 90 Power Brake Booster
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,249
Likes: 3
From: Grovetown Georgia
Replacing 90 Power Brake Booster
Who has done this themselves? I'm pretty sure that mine is leaking/going out. First application of the brakes is normal, second time (within a minute of so) pedal is harder, after that it's firm like manual brakes (and I can hear the air hissing from under the dash).
How hard of a job is this? I checked the parts (Ecklers) and it seem that there is a difference in the OEM booster for 90-91 ($300) but an aftermarket one in metal for $149.00 that covers 84-91. Anyone know the deal here?
Thanks,
How hard of a job is this? I checked the parts (Ecklers) and it seem that there is a difference in the OEM booster for 90-91 ($300) but an aftermarket one in metal for $149.00 that covers 84-91. Anyone know the deal here?
Thanks,
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 22,209
Likes: 12
From: OBAMA IS HITLER
order #B3B 2410908 from http://www.hotrodsusa.com/ and its $129.99 for a metal one. thats what i did when it came time to replace my OE unit. the main reason for me was the big difference in cost; however i don't know if the metal one is any better, or worse, than the OE unit. i would guess that because the shell is metal that it would hold up to damage from engine compartment heat better. so far after 1.5 years, i've been very happy with the metal one. what i did do for extra protection was to paint it, and put some heat tape on the ouside of the unit on the lower half. since i've got LT headers, i thought it might help as well.
since my mechanic is smaller and skinner than i am, plus i have a lack of patience at times, for $50 he installed it for me. that more than worked for me
since my mechanic is smaller and skinner than i am, plus i have a lack of patience at times, for $50 he installed it for me. that more than worked for me
Last edited by Red Tornado; Jul 12, 2006 at 02:31 PM.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville AL
I wish I could have gotten mine installed for $50. The directions weren't specific enough and it's a general pia. Took me a total of around 16 hrs or something to get it working right again because of the poor directions. I had the old one out and new one in in about 4-6hrs or something. The forum search will bring up some good info. I now have a scar on my elbow from carpet burn being able to only turn the socket wrench one click forever. Think I'll pay someone next time.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,249
Likes: 3
From: Grovetown Georgia
Thanks for the responses guys! Brad thanks for the link, I'll check and make sure it's not just a loose vacuum hose (fingers crossed) if not I'll order from there.
It's definitely no fun working under the dash and with a 2 year old at home I can only really wrench on it when he's taking a nap. I wish I could find a mechanic that I could trust to do it for $50!
It's definitely no fun working under the dash and with a 2 year old at home I can only really wrench on it when he's taking a nap. I wish I could find a mechanic that I could trust to do it for $50!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 22,209
Likes: 12
From: OBAMA IS HITLER
90EXP, more than happy to put my .02 in 
Wildcat, thats terrible you had to endure that. When I looked at the directions, I thought to myself, no way I'm bothering with that mess. Some find it easy enough; others find it pretty difficult. Its like the heater core GM p/n 001; I'll be more than happy to pay $200 (thats all my mechanic charged) to have it installed, rather than feeling the supposed "pride" by going thru 10 hours of he!! just to put it in once during the lifetime of the car. I get no pride from the anger & frustration from certain jobs on our vettes, after spending a zillion hours sweating to death, getting cut and, yelling, swearing and breaking things, throwing tools, etc......that all is a "big whup" to me and more than worth the aggravation saved by handing it off to someone who does it for a living. Even at twice the cost $100 to install a brake booster I say its worth it (again of course if you're tiny and skinny that helps alot, LOL)
sorry for all the yip-yap
Wildcat, thats terrible you had to endure that. When I looked at the directions, I thought to myself, no way I'm bothering with that mess. Some find it easy enough; others find it pretty difficult. Its like the heater core GM p/n 001; I'll be more than happy to pay $200 (thats all my mechanic charged) to have it installed, rather than feeling the supposed "pride" by going thru 10 hours of he!! just to put it in once during the lifetime of the car. I get no pride from the anger & frustration from certain jobs on our vettes, after spending a zillion hours sweating to death, getting cut and, yelling, swearing and breaking things, throwing tools, etc......that all is a "big whup" to me and more than worth the aggravation saved by handing it off to someone who does it for a living. Even at twice the cost $100 to install a brake booster I say its worth it (again of course if you're tiny and skinny that helps alot, LOL)sorry for all the yip-yap
Last edited by Red Tornado; Jul 12, 2006 at 03:23 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
From: Woodstock Ga
I just did my power booster on my 1990 L98
I didnt get the metal one... This is my daily driver and i couldnt wait for shipping so i bought on from my local Autozone for 99.46 plus 15.00 core
A couple things to look out for. Make sure you adjust the push rod properly. If it is too far in your brakes /calipers will begin to bind after a little while driving. This is because if the rod is adjusted too far out it will not allow the ports in the master cylinder to return all the way and fluid will not be able to recirculate back into the reservoirs. If you have it too short you will not have a full brake pedal. They make special tool for this...but i simply counted the number of threads exposed on my old one and adjusted the new one accordingly. Also another thing is that while your are removing and or installing the units you will probably knock your brake light switch and your Tourque Converter unlock switch out of adjustment. There are two switches on the brake pedal. One for brake lights and one for the Torque converter lockup. Make sure these are adjusted properly after the install. I reset them with a simple 12 piercing needle type test light
I didnt get the metal one... This is my daily driver and i couldnt wait for shipping so i bought on from my local Autozone for 99.46 plus 15.00 core
A couple things to look out for. Make sure you adjust the push rod properly. If it is too far in your brakes /calipers will begin to bind after a little while driving. This is because if the rod is adjusted too far out it will not allow the ports in the master cylinder to return all the way and fluid will not be able to recirculate back into the reservoirs. If you have it too short you will not have a full brake pedal. They make special tool for this...but i simply counted the number of threads exposed on my old one and adjusted the new one accordingly. Also another thing is that while your are removing and or installing the units you will probably knock your brake light switch and your Tourque Converter unlock switch out of adjustment. There are two switches on the brake pedal. One for brake lights and one for the Torque converter lockup. Make sure these are adjusted properly after the install. I reset them with a simple 12 piercing needle type test light
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville AL
lol, you describe the scenario to a T, hotrod. I'd pay a lot more than $100 even. It'd go a lot smoother now that I've done it though. That's good advice I could have used about counting the threads.
