C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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How do you know which is which? hat are all the ways of telling the diff?
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 02:58 PM
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From the factory (85-96), autos were D36, manual trans was D44. The D44 has a bigger case pysically.
Aaron
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 03:42 PM
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 03:49 PM
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Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you kindly.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 06:41 AM
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After doing some searches Ive learned that it's not as simple as swapping the carrier so I guess Im stuck with the 36. I read a thread that stated that the 36 is good for 500. Is that rwhp or fwhp? I plan on making 450rwhp and cutting 1.5's in the 1/4. Is there anything I can do to make the 36 stronger? I will be using drag radials.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 09:13 AM
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Its more so the torque youre thinking of making rather than the horses. It is very easy to swap to a DANA 44, ive done it myself and so have alot of others.

Have a look here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=218&TopicID=2
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Casethecorvetteman
Its more so the torque youre thinking of making rather than the horses. It is very easy to swap to a DANA 44, ive done it myself and so have alot of others.

Have a look here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=218&TopicID=2
As have I. Besides the carrier/batwing assembly, all you need is the driveshaft and C-beam and there are even ways around that. But with the shaft and beam it's a simple bolt-in that can be done in an afternoon. With additional power and DRs, the 36 will be a ticking bomb....
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Corvette Kid
As have I. Besides the carrier/batwing assembly, all you need is the driveshaft and C-beam and there are even ways around that. But with the shaft and beam it's a simple bolt-in that can be done in an afternoon. With additional power and DRs, the 36 will be a ticking bomb....
What are the ways around the driveshaft and C-beam? That's what I dont think I could get. I was going to have my friend trade with me but it's not a simple trade.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 09:32 AM
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Case is correct, it's the torque that is the killer...however...if you are making 450 hp at the wheels or crank you're D36 is not long for the world...to give you an idea, I busted up my D36 making 278 rwhp and 302 rwtq and that was on street tires...one decent hook is all it takes...

That said, there are some who have cryo treated their D36 to make it last longer...also, the less gear you run the better chance it has...both of these options may extend the D36 life but, have no doubt, you WILL bust it...it's not a matter of "if" only a matter of "when"...

BTW, whoever told you the D36 will hold up to 500 hp is peeing on your shoe and telling you it's raining...lol

Last edited by Fuzzy Dice; Jul 16, 2006 at 09:34 AM.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by honda hunter
What are the ways around the driveshaft and C-beam? That's what I dont think I could get. I was going to have my friend trade with me but it's not a simple trade.
Why do you say its not a simple trade? What ever year model he has, if it is a DANA 44 all you need to do is pull the c-beam and drive shaft off both cars, and swap them and the diff over. The yoke from your auto drive shaft (where it slips into the output of the auto trans) will need to stay with your car (so this simply means take it off the longer shaft and put it on your mate's shorter drive shaft) Apart from the yoke, it is a dead straight swap!! (99.9% of the time)
Originally Posted by Fuzzy Dice
BTW, whoever told you the D36 will hold up to 500 hp is peeing on your shoe and telling you it's raining...lol
HAHAHA!!! Dead right

Now can you think of anything more embarasing than hunting down a Honda then spreading your diff all over the road infront of him and his mates?? Its all well and good to make lots of power, but it is a waste of time if you cant get it to the ground in a reliable manner
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by honda hunter
What are the ways around the driveshaft and C-beam? That's what I dont think I could get. I was going to have my friend trade with me but it's not a simple trade.
As Case said, it should be. The 44 shaft and beam are roughly one inch shorter. The 36 beam can be redrilled at the transmission end though and some have said they used the one inch longer 36 shaft as is, with the yoke change of course which is required either way. Also, if you wanted to have the shaft shortened an inch and rebalanced, that's not very costly to have done by a driveline specialist.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 10:32 AM
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Have a look here for the changes you can make to the c-beam. Id just get the shaft and c-beam from a 6 speed since they fit straight in perfectly.
http://www.joby.se/corvette/mods/2001-0X11_diff/
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 02:22 PM
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There is no concrete limit to what a D36 can handle. It can blow at stock torque levels just as easy as high ones, and it won't give warning.

Put slicks on it at all, byebye rear axle.
Radials may last 10 passes or 1000 passes, you wont know.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by vader86
There is no concrete limit to what a D36 can handle. It can blow at stock torque levels just as easy as high ones, and it won't give warning.

Put slicks on it at all, byebye rear axle.
Radials may last 10 passes or 1000 passes, you wont know.
My stock 36 lasted 33 passes on a stock car on street tires.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Mojo
My stock 36 lasted 33 passes on a stock car on street tires.
And some have reported hundreds. But that makes the point that it is clearly a crap-shoot!
Plus, Mr Mojo is hell on wheels!
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