There is a tech tip on that tilt mechanism in the FOB.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=140&TopicID=2

I'd bet 90% of the dead FOBs out there could be made to work again by re-soldering the FOB connections and cleaning that ball contact.

Problem is most electronics technicians get a mindset that if they can't SEE a loose connection there isn't one. So if you take one to an electronics repair center somewhere the tech will probably blow you off and tell you it doesn't need re-soldered, that or he'll tell you he re-soldered everything when in fact he just touched up some things he thought could be the problem. Missing completely the loose connection that is unseen.

Murphy's law will come into play real quick here, the one single connection you miss while re-soldering the thing will be the one connection that is causing the problem.

These FOBs live in a pretty harsh environment, think about the throwing around of your keys, the weather changes, moisture in your pocket even though it's supposed to be sealed. So it's not hard to imagine over ten years they get some loose or dirty connections going on.

It's just too bad you didn't start with the FOB, but how do you know until you rule out the PKE receiver? Plus the learning you did is invaluable, now you'll feel like an expert and will be able to help the next guy with confidence.

Get that Helms manual now, it makes your life with a C4 so much easier.

 

I am real glad it it’s all up and running. Great feeling when it all comes together like this, everybody gains knowledge.

If you are ready to take on the next quest and fix your chimes, check out this post for background information and how I fixed my chimes.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ghlight=chimes

ALLT4 – you were right in correcting me technically, I wrote the post to quick (and no FSM near me) and only remembered what I had done recently. I had the PKE receiver unplugged and was checking inputs from various points and made that measurement as I stated using resistance since it goes to ground thru the key switch. With the PKE connected a voltage check would be the correct measurement to use and would render the same result. (I should have said, unplug the box).

 

damn i wish i would have known that earlier!! i could have done that In a few minuets while the dash cap was off. it'll just have to wait will i can get to it again. its just to darn hot to be out there with no ac and no wind in a car!! thank you for that info, but one question...where did u solder? i want to get an idea before i rip it all out again and see whats going on. sounds and looks like a very simple device. thank you for your help!!!

 

Here's some FYI's, get them while you can. I'm dropping this host in few weeks. This is 96 information so you'll have to figure out if it works for your year, I don't know what exact years this applies to.

BTW, there is no complete disable of the Keyless entry system! There is a disable for the PKE (Passive Keyless Entry)

In this mode the manual keyless entry still works, the DIC light will not light up during self test. Many people confuse others by telling them the PKE system has been disabled. Yes, the passive part IS disabled but pressing a button will still operate the doors or the hatch maually.