Bushing changeout help
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Ol Dirty Durham NC
Bushing changeout help
Looking into buying an Energy Suspension bushing kit off of summit for around $175.00. My goal is to get the suspension as close to new as I can b/c I don't want to kill myself with an old suspension when I drop a new motor in.
I have been looking through the HELMS manual and it looks to be a very tedious and in depth job. I can go by the manual but does anyone have a link that shows real pics and descriptions of stuff being removed? I think that would make a great supplement to the manual, since it shows more exploded diagrams than step by step part removal.
Also is the Energy Suspension stuff worth the money, is there any other manufacturer that is cheaper? I have already changed the shocks, will changing all the bushings make a difference? (I assume it will but how much?)
I know I am throwing a lot of here for answers but lastly are there any tricks I can use when taking the suspension apart to change bushings?
Thx to all that have helped me so far and continue with help in my quest to restore my 86
I have been looking through the HELMS manual and it looks to be a very tedious and in depth job. I can go by the manual but does anyone have a link that shows real pics and descriptions of stuff being removed? I think that would make a great supplement to the manual, since it shows more exploded diagrams than step by step part removal.
Also is the Energy Suspension stuff worth the money, is there any other manufacturer that is cheaper? I have already changed the shocks, will changing all the bushings make a difference? (I assume it will but how much?)
I know I am throwing a lot of here for answers but lastly are there any tricks I can use when taking the suspension apart to change bushings?
Thx to all that have helped me so far and continue with help in my quest to restore my 86
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 1
From: sd
It is a tedious job but well worth it in the end. I have a 2000 C5 with 33k and my 85 with poly bushings and edelbrock shocks rides like a luxury car and is squeak free both in the interior and exterior compared to my C5. Assorted sockets, a good bench vise, synthetic marine grease, good floor jack and jack stands, and assorted hand tools and the job is good to go. On the upper A-arms I took them to an alignment shop to have the 1 peice bushing pressed out and new one pressed back in but the rest can be done in your garage with sockets and a bench vise. I used the synthetic marine grease as the grease that is supplied with the bushings I fealt wasn't enough so I lathered up the bushings to get the best coverage. I used so much it was oozing all over. Just wipe off the excess, torque everything down to specs and you'll be good to go. Take it slow and you'll be done in no time. There was some tech tips on this once and someone had a great write up on what to look out for so maybe use the search function to see what is out there. You'll love the difference it makes in your ride! Good luck!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Ol Dirty Durham NC
Originally Posted by goldeneye_vet
It is a tedious job but well worth it in the end. I have a 2000 C5 with 33k and my 85 with poly bushings and edelbrock shocks rides like a luxury car and is squeak free both in the interior and exterior compared to my C5. Assorted sockets, a good bench vise, synthetic marine grease, good floor jack and jack stands, and assorted hand tools and the job is good to go. On the upper A-arms I took them to an alignment shop to have the 1 peice bushing pressed out and new one pressed back in but the rest can be done in your garage with sockets and a bench vise. I used the synthetic marine grease as the grease that is supplied with the bushings I fealt wasn't enough so I lathered up the bushings to get the best coverage. I used so much it was oozing all over. Just wipe off the excess, torque everything down to specs and you'll be good to go. Take it slow and you'll be done in no time. There was some tech tips on this once and someone had a great write up on what to look out for so maybe use the search function to see what is out there. You'll love the difference it makes in your ride! Good luck!
Racer
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 351
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From: Allen TX
I used a drill on the sway bar end links. Once the bolt was out of the way and the metal end link taken off, I layed down next to the car, not even on jackstands, and used a small drill bit and just kept drilling into the old bushing. Then I'd look down from above and use some kind of punch (I used an old screwdriver) and would hammer the bushing towards the front of the car. If it wouldn't come out, I'd lay down and drill some more. It made a mess with all the little rubber bits coming out but it was not hard. The new end link bushings go in pretty easy with no pressing required.
I need to do the upper control arm bushings, but those look a little more involved
I need to do the upper control arm bushings, but those look a little more involved
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Hampton, VA Yea, i'm a redneck... but you love it
Cruise-In 8-9 Veteran
aka/Trunk Monkey/Banned For Life/Corvette For Life
its a real pita, i am almost done with mine. the front is done and one side of the back is too. its not that hard in back, but the front is. if you have a handheld gear puller then that will help a lot. if you have any questions pm me.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Ol Dirty Durham NC
Originally Posted by Corvette for life
its a real pita, i am almost done with mine. the front is done and one side of the back is too. its not that hard in back, but the front is. if you have a handheld gear puller then that will help a lot. if you have any questions pm me.
How do you get the lower control arm off? Does the leaf spring have to be compressed to remove the lower control arm? I have the manual diagrams to go off of but layman's terms would be appreciated
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Ol Dirty Durham NC
Originally Posted by Corvette for life
its a real pita, i am almost done with mine. the front is done and one side of the back is too. its not that hard in back, but the front is. if you have a handheld gear puller then that will help a lot. if you have any questions pm me.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2002
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From: The Motor City
Originally Posted by C4CBF
After I replace all this these bushings does the car have to be realigned? I was thinking I could mark all threads and take pics to avoid having pay $100
As for alternative sources for bushings, I will be ordering up the front and rear sets from Vette Brakes & Products (VB&P). I ordered up their 32mm front and 26mm rear sway bars last month (both of which came with poly bushings) and the quality of their products is superb! And they sell their front and rear poly bushing sets separately. So you can order one set first (say, the front), then when you're ready order the remaining set to finish the job.
Team Owner
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From: Hampton, VA Yea, i'm a redneck... but you love it
Cruise-In 8-9 Veteran
aka/Trunk Monkey/Banned For Life/Corvette For Life
Originally Posted by C4CBF
Everything looks pretty accessible except the control arms, they look to be a PITA. So they have to be pressed in and out?
How do you get the lower control arm off? Does the leaf spring have to be compressed to remove the lower control arm? I have the manual diagrams to go off of but layman's terms would be appreciated
How do you get the lower control arm off? Does the leaf spring have to be compressed to remove the lower control arm? I have the manual diagrams to go off of but layman's terms would be appreciated
good luck