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you can pick up a lug bolt from the auto pats store, not sure with the vette(never experienced on the vette) if it is like anything else you should be able to knock the stripped one out and knock the new on back in.you will have to drop the rotor......someone should know how on the vette
I haven't replaced a front stud yet, but I've had to change 4 on the rear so far. I drag race every so often so I have the wheels off and on alot, seems like every so often one of them strips. I'm not sure if the wheel is scuffing on the stud and causing the nut to gall or if the stock nuts are just junky. To change the stud on the rear I tap out the stripped stud, get a Dorman replacement at the auto parts store, slip in the new stud, stack a number of flat washers on the stud, hand thread a lug nut down to the washers then tighten with a breaker bar until the stud pulls up tight to back of the wheel flange. Have fun, Dave :cool:
If it is the stud you are talking about you canhave it re threaded. My friend is a mechanic and had a Snap On set of dies for wheel studs. He redid one on another car for me. It took about 2 minutes and worked fine.
I'm afraid that the stripped lug will need to be removed and replaced.
Weekendwrench brings up a good idea. If the threads are simply
mashed in, a re-threading die will work to straighten the flattened threads.
If the threads are truly stripped, you're gonna need to :smash: pound
out the bad stud and install a new one. That's because a rethreading die
is useful when material exists to be rethreaded, when there's nothing to rethread, you need to replace. Good luck. :seeya
I choose not to pound out the bad stud(s) on the front. If you have a bench vise available you can remove the hub and take it to the vise and press it out. I was concerned about the bearings.
I would buy a new stud and a new nut from Chevrolet.
The first time I ever raced my car I wound up with one broken stud. It's still long enough to catch so I haven't replaced it yet. On that same wheel I have one stripped stud as well. I have 8 new ones from the dealership, 2 more on the way. I'll probably replace them this weekend, so I'll have plenty just in case everything sucks like it always does
You don't need to remove anything from the car to replace the stud.
The FACTORY manual says to drive out the old stud. Use a 5 lb hammer. If it is a rear one, there is 1 spot where you can pull the stud out and get a new one back in. It is around 4 o'clock on drivers side & 8 o'clock on the passengers side.
Insert new stud. Use 2 nuts (not lug nuts...just a regular metric nut) and a pair of washers with some grease between them. Insert washers, then nuts onto stud. Use a deep well socket and a breaker bar to pull the new stud through. I did all 4 wheels on my car in less than 1 hour. After the first one you get the process down pretty good.
I go to take my front drivers side tire off and found a stipped thread on one lug. :eek: Iwas able to get it back on but what do I have to do now?
its easy enough....i replaced ALL my front studs, some bonehead kid used an impact wrench to tighten my lugs when i had the tires balanced and didn't even bother to use the hand start method...he just put it on and squeezed the trigger! anyway, back to business.....just take the tire off, then remove the caliper, then the rotor.......then pound the old ones out....HIT 'EM HARD or it could take a long time....and watch out for the ear ringing. replace them, and pull them through as far as you can then put the rotor back on and tighten a lug nut on it so it will grip, then repace the caliper and tire and then the lug nut, and you are good to go! :yesnod:
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Re: Stripped wheel lug (85_togo)
OK, I admit I've done this. It is not the right way, and can damage bearings and suspension and steering parts.
The correct method is to use a press to remove and replace the studs.
I've been using NAPA studs, and seems everytime I have to take a wheel off I find another that is starting to have problems. Could just be that at sometime, some shop overused the air wrench, so far I haven't lost a new one. I torque to factory specs using a star pattern and at least 3 steps. Anyone know a sorce of high quality studs for this application?
If the factory manual says to pound them out with a five pound hammer then that's the second mistake I know of in the manuals. That's my opinion, however my dad was a master tool maker and I learned not to pound things that don't have to be pounded. Press them out.
The other mistake I have found so far in the 92 Helms "factory" manual is on how to change the fog lamp bulbs. It says to take the bumper apart!. I was told by Nathan Plemmons that there is a little door under the bumper for that purpose. There is a little door.
To remove the rear studs I cut the stud off flush with a wheel and vibrated it out with a point on an air powered wrench.
Factory manual says to pound them out with a hammer??????????? Who's factory manual is that? My GM factory manual says to use a wheel stud removal tool, which is basically a reverse puller, or press if you will.