Have been dealing with an intermittent "Service Ride Control" light for several months. Never happens on first drive of the day, always after a subsequent startup. Once it lights once for the day, it always returns on subesequent drives, although never immediately from startup.

Finally checked codes today and got a code 21 indicating possible bad actuator. Seems odd, though, since it does not immediately throw the light and the light will not light at all some days. Anyway, checked for actuator travel and looked good, reinstalled and now I show codes 21 and 31 (LF out of position).

Also, tried to clear codes and haven't been able to make that work. The instructions I got said turn to "run", then grouns A & C for two seconds at a time, three times. Does this sound right?

Any thoughts?

 

Is the actuator sitting squarely on the ring? Is the connector tight? Is the small gear on the top of the shock rod undamaged? (this would be a code 31)

Actuators can be swapped left to right so you might try that to see if the code 21 follows (LF time out would be replaced by a Code 14 RF Time Out). That will usually indicate a bad actuator. If the codes stay the same, then it could be a wiring issue. Also check to make sure the harness at the Controller is tight and that there are no loose wires at the connector.

Clearing the codes as you mentioned should work. That is what the FSM says to do. Try grounding pins A and C then turn the ignition to run. Pull the jumper after two seconds, reinsert and pull twice more.

 

I was in the middle of typing a reply to you when C4Cruiser's message came on. His advice on FX3 system has been a great help to me in the past so I'd follow his advice and do just what he says. He is one of the Gurus on the Fx3 system!

You didn't mention how much mileage you have on the shocks. Mine (a 95) started acting up at about 84K. I don't know what they figure the FX3 shocks are normally good for mileage wise. Generally I would think that after 50K you are "living on borrowed time."

I got the same codes as you are getting (21,31) and it turned out that the splined gear on the top of the LF shock had disintergrated (potmetal) and had also broken the plastic gears in the actuator.

The following is just some info that maybe of help to you if you don't already have it.
Shocks-
You can get the shocks rebuilt by Bilstein at between $100-$140 a piece. They can also change the valving for you custom to your needs when the rebuild is done.
Bilstein (1-800-537-1085) is in Poway CA (near San Diego)

Another option is to buy new Bilstein shocks. The main advantage of buying new ones is that they come with a lifetime guarantee. I bought mine from Shox.com www.shox.com Ph: 800-683-2890 They are in El Cajon, CA. A set of new Bilstein FX3 shocks from them run about $699. If you not from Calif. you don't have to pay sales tax and the shipping was free.

Actuators-
If you need a new actuators they are available from Shox.com at $279 ea. Front and rear are different (length of wire pigtail)
You can also get them rebuilt by a forum member, Capt Z, www.captainzcnc.com for about $125 each.

I just finished doing my shocks and it's a pretty straight forward job.
I found both the Shop Manual and some of the tips in "101 Projects for Your Corvette" by Richard Newton , very helpful.

From all the Forum posts on FX3 system I have read I've come to the conclusion that FX3 is very misunderstood system and that when it is working correctly is very beneficial and well worth the cost of restoring.

 

Thanks for the replies, just by way of an update:

I checked the metal gear on the shock itself and saw no problems, it did not turn 360 degrees, just from stop to stop so looks okay. The inside of the actuator looks good to me, no teeth missing or plastic pieces in there, and on start up it moves side to side then centers itself again. BTW, the car has 43,000 miles.

So I removed and re-seated the actuator, cleared codes then went for a drive. 36 miles, three stops and starts, ride control selector adjusted to all three settings, and no light. I did not check for more codes, but will next time I have it out.

A couple of questions:

1. How do you know when the codes are cleared? Does the SRC light do anything to indicate you got the sequence correct?

2. Do you have to get the actuator back on the shock in the exact position it was before? That is, does it matter if the actuator is rotated one way or the other. After I got the code 31 I started thinking that the actuator wires weren't pointing quite the same way they were before, so I moved it over basically one
"tooth" and reinstalled it.

Thanks for the replies!