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Im thinking of a Pro Torque torque converter and was wondering what tranny and what converter would be best. This car will be a daily driver will see some drags at the strip.
A beefed Turbo 700 is always a nice setup, and they can be had relatively cheap. If you already have a case, you can get them built up really strong for just over $1000. It will retain a great ratio first gear(3.08), but the drop to second(1.63) is the main reason most people don't like it for the strip(others don't like it because its a relatively weak transmission after you get over 450 hp/tq). On the freeway its great because it has a .7 reduction overdrive gear.
On the other hand, you can get an unkillable Turbo400 for around $650, and a better race gear ratio(2.23, 1.7??, 1.0), this tranny doesn't have any sort of overdrive capabilities though.
If you get either tranny get a lockup version and a lockup converter, it will make the streetability much better.
I would recommend against the 4L60E, as it is expensive as heck(you need a computer to run it) and its pretty much the same as the Turbo 700, the only difference is you can change the settings of a 4L60E with it still in the car.
Call ProTorque and discuss your car and what you want it to do. I said those very words to them. "Streetable but occasional strip times". I got a 2200 stall put in behind my new zz4 motor. Well the 20k mile 700r400 transmission failed 2 weeks later with 800 miles. Burned up 3-4 gear. Coincidence? I had even put in a trans cooler too. I thought too much power is being made by motor. I opted for the very expensive "bulletproof" performance trans from Level Ten and another ProTorque 2400stall convertor (first one was contaminated with particles???). Then I dyno car and find out I am making 250 horsepower. Moral of story: if nothing is wrong with trans now, DO NOT FIX IT. Higher stall than stock will heat trans, and heated trans leads to shorter life. Simple Right.
How is the stock torque converter set up? Is it fine for my wants? I would like 400 or so HP at the engine by the time im in college, 2 years. What other mods would I need to do for that number? I also want mid to low 12's in the 1/4, can the planned mods in my sig do that?
I just thought of something, if you have an auto now, you problably(not entirely sure of 1991) have a Dana 36 rear end too. Look for my post, "What makes D36's fail in high torque conditions?" There is some good info posted by different members. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do.
As for the power that your motor should make, looks like a nice setup, I would skip the ZZ4 shortblock if you're going to replace the cam though, as it already voids the warranty...talk to local engine builders and get prices from them.
As of now your car has a TH700R4(Turbo Hydramatic 700 Reverse+4-speed, at least thats what I think it stands for), by 1991 I think it turned into a pretty reliable transmission, 1981-1986 are horrible years for the transmission, it was made much better in 1987 and improvements were constantly being done until it was computer controlled in 1992.5 and renamed the 4L60E(4-speed lengthwise 60 Electronically controlled, again, I think thats what it means...:confused: ), I've seen the 4L60E transaxle handle over 450 hp in C5's with no problems, eventually this tranny is going to be perfect.