Wont start: bad fuel pump?
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Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: sw Ohio
Wont start: bad fuel pump?
I parked my '85 in the garage a few days ago to work on it. I took the valve cover off on the passenger side and removed the first 4 rockers arms and rods. Didnt have time to finish, so I put it all back together. The next day I went to start it and it would crank like hell but wouldnt start.
Today I got up and have been trying to figure this one out. I have spark, no vacuum leaks, everything seems normal. It will only start when I pump the gas pedal and will shut off when I quit giving it gas. It sounds aweful when it is running. When I turn the key over to on, not starting, I think I can hear the pump but i'm not 100% certain. It sounds like a fuel related problem. Can anyone help me narrow it down?
Today I got up and have been trying to figure this one out. I have spark, no vacuum leaks, everything seems normal. It will only start when I pump the gas pedal and will shut off when I quit giving it gas. It sounds aweful when it is running. When I turn the key over to on, not starting, I think I can hear the pump but i'm not 100% certain. It sounds like a fuel related problem. Can anyone help me narrow it down?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: sw Ohio
Originally Posted by toptechx6
they shouldn't be torqued, tighten till you have zero lash then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn if I recall correctly, check specs for your engine.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: FL
Cover bolts?
Sounds like you confused the rocker cover bolt torque specs with the rocker arm nut torque? Get a book and follow the instructions, the lifter must be positioned on the cam base circle when the rocker is adjusted.
Safety Car
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From: FL
adjustment proceedure
Originally Posted by 4Ever21
How do I get zero lash?
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2
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Team Owner
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From: sw Ohio
I looked it up in the manual and it does say how to set them to zero lash. I did this and put it all back together. Started it up and immediately threw code 14 and 15 which doesnt make sense. The coolant is fine. When it runs, its about 400-500 rpms and sounds very lopey like its cammed or something. It will stay running though. Should I loosen the rockers more?
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From: FL
Codes 14 & 15?
Sorry 4Ever, I don't know what those codes indicate for your year car. From your description they must be related to the coolant sensor? Any chance you unplugged it while adjusting your valve lash? I hope you didn't bend a valve or pushrod when trying to start the car with the lash misadjusted.
Le Mans Master
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From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by 4Ever21
I parked my '85 in the garage a few days ago to work on it. I took the valve cover off on the passenger side and removed the first 4 rockers arms and rods. Didnt have time to finish, so I put it all back together.
EDIT: Sorry, looked and see that you are going to replace the valve seals.
Last edited by RRT vette; Aug 2, 2006 at 02:55 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Louisiana
I don't have a refrence right now but I think code 15 points to the CTS located on the front of the intake manifold. Look to see if the connector is connected. A faulty connection or sensor can cause lots of drivability problems.
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Team Owner
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From: sw Ohio
I have an update: I loosened the rocker arms a little more but it seems impossible to get them perfect. For some reason they dont want to stay at zero lash. I started it up and it sounds a LOT better. Rpms are in the normal range of 600-700rpms and dont fluctuate much. However, I noticed a tapping sound that sped up with the engine. I guess it could be a pushrod or rocker arm tapping. I turned the engine off figuring that its not good to run it like that. Not sure what to do now.
Yes the coolant sensor is unplugged, I need to get a new plug cause the wiring wont stay in the sensor.
Yes the coolant sensor is unplugged, I need to get a new plug cause the wiring wont stay in the sensor.
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From: FL
Zero lash is the starting point
recheck the adjustment procedure in your manual, the adjustment should be tighter by another 1/2 to 1 turn. See how it runs then, the noise is likely caused by the adjustment now being loose.
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Team Owner
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From: sw Ohio
In my Hayne's manual (because I dont have the FSM) it says zero lash is set just how I did it and doesnt require another 1/2 turn or anything like that. I guess it couldnt hurt to try giving it another 1/2 turn.