C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

clutch master bleeding problems

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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 10:55 AM
  #1  
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easymancan
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From: Litchfield Park Arizona
Default clutch master bleeding problems

Sorry, back again.... I installed the clutch master in my 1995 corvette.I tried all day to bleed the air out of it and I never was able to. why is it so hard to bleed this system since it's only a cpl of feet long. sometimes I got a got strong pedal and like now I only have a really soft pedal. I bought the master from the chevrolet dealer, so I am hoping there is not a problem with it. any advice will be welcome....thanks
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 11:16 AM
  #2  
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pcolt94
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From: Orlando FL
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I dont know your method of bleeding but I guess you bench bled it and did the normal bleed. I like to back bleed myself and push the air up.

The only streach of information I have heard of was bad masters where the rubber piston cup was installed backwards on the metal piston. More detailed information is in the Forum with problems similar to yours.

Not saying this is the problem, just want to make you aware of recient history.

Should not be a hard job. Best of luck.
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 11:55 AM
  #3  
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neat
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From: Raleigh, NC
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I have always reverse bled the system with a Mighty-Vac brake tool. No problems here.

What method are you using to bleed the system?
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 12:15 PM
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easymancan
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From: Litchfield Park Arizona
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I was having somone pump the brakes then I was releasing the bleed valve. i have the car up on on side to be able to reach the bleed valve. I when over to auto zone and bought a vacuum pump but didn't ubterstand how to use so I took it back
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 01:54 PM
  #5  
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neat
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From: Raleigh, NC
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The vacuum pump is probably the easiest way. Here's how you use it:

One port on the pump sucks in, while another blows out. Run a line from the sucker port into a bottle of clutch fluid or brake fluid. Run the blower line to the bleeder valve on the slave. Crack the bleeder valve and slowly pump the pump. It should draw fluid from the bottle and push it through the bleeder valve into the slave. Do this very slowly until the master is about 2/3 full. Close the bleeder and remove you vacuum pump.

Depending on the orientation of the slave bleeder and input line, you might need to remove the slave and let it hang. It is important that the input line to the slave be the highest point on the slave when you are bleeding this way.

You should also lightly screw the cap on the master or you will spray fluid out the top and all over the windshield.

Another easy, albeit, longer method is to run a long clear line from the bleeder back into the master reservoir. Have a partner SLOWLY pump the clutch. So slowly that it takes nearly a minute to complete a full cycle. As the pedal is on it's down stroke, near the floor, open the bleeder. You should get a small dribble of fluid. Close the bleeder, and release the clutch, again very slowly. Slowly push the clutch back to the floor and repeat. Once you have a solid stream of fluid in the tube all the way back to the master, cycle it a couple more times and you should be done.

Let us know how it works out!
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Old Aug 12, 2006 | 06:26 PM
  #6  
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vvv90
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From: Honolulu, HI
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I'm assuming that before the reverse bleed procedure is started that MOST of the fluid should be removed from the fluid reservoir as not to overflow correct?
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