Head Stud leaking
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Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Lake Lure NC
Head Stud leaking
After much troubleshooting, I have determined that one of my head studs is leaking coolant. During my 396 stroker build I decided to go with studs instead of bolts. My question is will I be able to remove the stud without removing the head? What sealant are people using?
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Yes, you can remove them and reseal the whole set one at a time if you'd like. Just do it in your normal sequence and retorque each one as you put it back in. I used ARP bolts in mine with their sealer/lube and have not experienced any problems. I don't know if the studs are more prone to this or not, I have no experience with them. What did you use on them anyway?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
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From: The Top of Utah
Whether they are bolts or studs should have nothing to do with the leak. Any fastener that screws into a water jacket should have sealant on the threads. I personally prefer Permatex No.2.
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Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,504
Likes: 4
From: Mexico Beach FL
For some reason, that escapes me, studs seem to be more prone to leaking.
My neighbors modified LT4 has studs and they leak.
My '92 with AFR heads has bolts and I haven't had any leaks.
Tom Piper
My neighbors modified LT4 has studs and they leak.
My '92 with AFR heads has bolts and I haven't had any leaks.
Tom Piper
Large Impressive Member
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Here's the thing about the ARP head bolts. If you use their lube or sealer/lube, the torque spec on them is 60 lbs. Use oil or any other lube and it's 75 lbs! I found that rather interesting. It seems that instructions were similar as to torque and lubes for their rod bolts and main studs which I also have, but I can't recall the specifics at this moment. With the head studs though, you should be able to set them in the block with most anything that will do the job, because you do the critical torquing with the nuts. At least that is how it would seem to me. Tom Wong posted some solutions to the head stud problems a while back. You could contact him.
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Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Lake Lure NC
CFI-EFI before I redo this stud this weekend, I want to make sure I am using the correct permatex product. Below is a link to what I have been using:
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut..._2_Sealant.htm
I alos bought a new tube just in case.
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut..._2_Sealant.htm
I alos bought a new tube just in case.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
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From: The Top of Utah
I'm not too sure who else thinks or says it is correct product to use, but yes. That is the product I'm talking about. I'm 99% sure that the "A" of the "2A" refers to the tube size. Good luck.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Lake Lure NC
I know a lot of builders that use it with success. I use it all the time on my two cycle boat engines with great success. The letter is the tube size. How much did you apply to the threads? The block currently has coolant in it. Do you suggest I pull the knock or can I replace without draining? Should I worry about a little water on the threads?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 8,183
Likes: 3
From: Santa Maria, CA
I have studs and they leaked also.
I tried different things.
Always drained, cleaned and dried the threads.
Finally, the only thing that worked was a combo of sealant
and.................
teflon tape.
The kind plumber's use on black pipe.
I tried different things.
Always drained, cleaned and dried the threads.
Finally, the only thing that worked was a combo of sealant
and.................
teflon tape.
The kind plumber's use on black pipe.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Lake Lure NC
Ok guys. I resealed the leaking head stud a up pops another one leaking. I love the way pressure works. SO........................
1. Pull each stud and reseal using permantex #2
2. Try the GM pellets and see if the pellets stop the leaks
Do all the studs go into a water jacket (This is the right side head that is leaking)? Do I need to pull the covers and do the inside ones or do these not run into the water jacket?
Give me some advice.
1. Pull each stud and reseal using permantex #2
2. Try the GM pellets and see if the pellets stop the leaks
Do all the studs go into a water jacket (This is the right side head that is leaking)? Do I need to pull the covers and do the inside ones or do these not run into the water jacket?
Give me some advice.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 737
Likes: 11
From: Charlotte MI
Originally Posted by mothersworry
Ok guys. I resealed the leaking head stud a up pops another one leaking. I love the way pressure works. SO........................
1. Pull each stud and reseal using permantex #2
2. Try the GM pellets and see if the pellets stop the leaks
Do all the studs go into a water jacket (This is the right side head that is leaking)? Do I need to pull the covers and do the inside ones or do these not run into the water jacket?
Give me some advice.
1. Pull each stud and reseal using permantex #2
2. Try the GM pellets and see if the pellets stop the leaks
Do all the studs go into a water jacket (This is the right side head that is leaking)? Do I need to pull the covers and do the inside ones or do these not run into the water jacket?
Give me some advice.
