C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Head Stud leaking

Old Aug 5, 2006 | 12:21 PM
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Default Head Stud leaking

After much troubleshooting, I have determined that one of my head studs is leaking coolant. During my 396 stroker build I decided to go with studs instead of bolts. My question is will I be able to remove the stud without removing the head? What sealant are people using?
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 12:37 PM
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St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
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Yes, you can remove them and reseal the whole set one at a time if you'd like. Just do it in your normal sequence and retorque each one as you put it back in. I used ARP bolts in mine with their sealer/lube and have not experienced any problems. I don't know if the studs are more prone to this or not, I have no experience with them. What did you use on them anyway?
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 12:55 PM
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Whether they are bolts or studs should have nothing to do with the leak. Any fastener that screws into a water jacket should have sealant on the threads. I personally prefer Permatex No.2.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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My goodness the first two posts are from two guys I consider the best in the business. Thanks Kid and CFI. BTW I used Permatex No.2, however must not have been enought. Thanks guys
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 02:16 PM
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For some reason, that escapes me, studs seem to be more prone to leaking.
My neighbors modified LT4 has studs and they leak.
My '92 with AFR heads has bolts and I haven't had any leaks.

Tom Piper
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 03:23 PM
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
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Here's the thing about the ARP head bolts. If you use their lube or sealer/lube, the torque spec on them is 60 lbs. Use oil or any other lube and it's 75 lbs! I found that rather interesting. It seems that instructions were similar as to torque and lubes for their rod bolts and main studs which I also have, but I can't recall the specifics at this moment. With the head studs though, you should be able to set them in the block with most anything that will do the job, because you do the critical torquing with the nuts. At least that is how it would seem to me. Tom Wong posted some solutions to the head stud problems a while back. You could contact him.
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Old Aug 11, 2006 | 08:47 PM
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CFI-EFI before I redo this stud this weekend, I want to make sure I am using the correct permatex product. Below is a link to what I have been using:

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut..._2_Sealant.htm

I alos bought a new tube just in case.
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Old Aug 11, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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I'm not too sure who else thinks or says it is correct product to use, but yes. That is the product I'm talking about. I'm 99% sure that the "A" of the "2A" refers to the tube size. Good luck.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Aug 11, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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I know a lot of builders that use it with success. I use it all the time on my two cycle boat engines with great success. The letter is the tube size. How much did you apply to the threads? The block currently has coolant in it. Do you suggest I pull the knock or can I replace without draining? Should I worry about a little water on the threads?
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Old Aug 11, 2006 | 09:39 PM
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I have studs and they leaked also.
I tried different things.
Always drained, cleaned and dried the threads.
Finally, the only thing that worked was a combo of sealant
and.................
teflon tape.
The kind plumber's use on black pipe.
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 04:23 PM
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Ok guys. I resealed the leaking head stud a up pops another one leaking. I love the way pressure works. SO........................

1. Pull each stud and reseal using permantex #2
2. Try the GM pellets and see if the pellets stop the leaks

Do all the studs go into a water jacket (This is the right side head that is leaking)? Do I need to pull the covers and do the inside ones or do these not run into the water jacket?
Give me some advice.
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 06:23 PM
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If it is a production block, all 17 (per head) head bolt/studs thread into the water jackets.

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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 06:57 PM
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So I infer all could leak coolant.

Correct?
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 08:04 PM
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I can't imagine why any single one would be any more likely to leak than any of the others. Maybe what you need as an after market block with blind head fastener holes.

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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mothersworry
Ok guys. I resealed the leaking head stud a up pops another one leaking. I love the way pressure works. SO........................

1. Pull each stud and reseal using permantex #2
2. Try the GM pellets and see if the pellets stop the leaks

Do all the studs go into a water jacket (This is the right side head that is leaking)? Do I need to pull the covers and do the inside ones or do these not run into the water jacket?
Give me some advice.
What I have used for years is any high quality silicone pipe sealer. Not only does it seal the threads, but it also lubricates during the torquing of the bolts. I have yet to have a leak. It appears that the bigger issue is with the studs. Not sure why you decidedto use them, but the only real advantange is for people who assemble and disassemble often. It prevents premature thread failure in the block.
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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Most of the time they will leak...THey usually corrode shut after time .
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