C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

leaking Canton oil pan

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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 02:16 PM
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Default leaking Canton oil pan

Hi all

i have a Canton Road race oil pan in my car, sealed perfect...T-chain cover was a cast aluminium one..

i have had to change my cam, i reused the gasket (2 months old) installed a 2piece T-chain cover, and i have now a oil leak...

it leaks somewhere from the front of the pan, somewhere between T-chain cover and oil pan lip...

where are such common leak spots?

i´m frustrated....

thank you!
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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Have you tried the one piece oil pan gasket? The blue one? They are great! Always use a new gasket on the timing cover.
Also, a product called "the right stuff" is excellent rtv sealant.
Clean every part real good with brake parts cleaner. The bolt threads get cleaned and rtv'd also.
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 03:02 PM
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hi

yes, its a one piece rear main seal block,

i maybe made the mistake, that i re-used the gasket, its a one piece, but it was no fel-pro (blue) it was a mr.gasket (grey white) i think...

can you describe me "the right stuff" ?

i live in Austria, so im not able to get this, i can get "Loctite Ultra black RTV silicone"

i hope, its not the T-Chain cover itself..although, i nver heard they are leaking..it seams to leak at the lip of the pan....


thank you!!
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 03:16 PM
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The SBC oil pan design (how it mates to the block) is 50 plus years old. It is a relatively poor design and prone to leaking, especially on high RPM, high performance engines that have increased crankcase pressures. Unfortunately having a quality aftermarket oil pan or gasket doesn't guarantee it won't leak 2 days after installation, with or without silicone sealant!
Some people get lucky and they stay sealed for years, others have to constantly fight them and periodically clean-up after them.
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 03:26 PM
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that doesnt sound very good....

but, i dont speak of a few drips,i speak from a puddle , half-hand-size after an hour where the car is parked...(it stays that size)
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 06:09 PM
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Well Reinhold, don't give up on it. You should be able to get it to stop puddling, but don't spend too much time and effort trying to keep that 'front timing cover to pan area' perfectly dry forever.
Good luck, Joel.
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 06:55 PM
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I had a Canton 15-240T oil pan that leaked through the welds. Yes, the welds were defective from the manuf. You could see daylight in four(4) different places. What was strange, it only leaked at high RPM- alot. I even filled it w/ water after I got a new one. No leaks. It had to be under pressure, but you could see the holes. Maybe this will help.
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GS478
I had a Canton 15-240T oil pan that leaked through the welds. Yes, the welds were defective from the manuf. You could see daylight in four(4) different places. What was strange, it only leaked at high RPM- alot. I even filled it w/ water after I got a new one. No leaks. It had to be under pressure, but you could see the holes. Maybe this will help.
AH! HA! PEOPLE SAID I WAS NUTS WHEN MINE LEAKED LIKE A SIV RIGHT THOUGH THE WELDS LIKE 5 OR 6 PLACES! THANK YOU FOR VINDICATING ME
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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I just finished up a motor build and I', having the exact same symptoms as some of you. Parked theres barely any oil dripping, but after driving there seems to be more oil leaking out and the airflow under the car is spitting it all over the underside of the bellhousing, tranny and exhaust. I had a feeling its from crankcase pressure and maybe the gasket but now i think it may be a weld problem as well.

Those of you with the welds cracked, how long ago did you purchase the pan and when did you have the problem ?
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 06:09 PM
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I just installed a breather on one side and cleaned up the pan and tightened up the pan bolts a bit. Going to drive it tonight to see if its pressure thats causing this. I also think the leak maybe from my pan being overfilled.
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 07:44 PM
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I dropped the pan 3 times and it's still leaks. I've drop a pan before on a C4, stock, and didn't have this issue. I've used GM gasket and FELPRO....

rob
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 08:24 PM
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WOW, that not good news. I be pretty P.O.'d to spend big money on a Canton pan to have it leak after. What's Canton's take on all this? Are they willing to stand behind their product and fix/replace it?

I think I'll be looking at one of the E-bay specials after hearing all this
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 09:38 AM
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hi all...just finished my install again, i used a blue felpro, cleaned everything perfect, i worked like a doctor on a surgery..

the pan went in flawlessly (after i lifted the engine an inch, or so) and you can feel the rubber of the gasket on the lip of the pan..

i put some RTV on the edges, and a light coating of RTV where the T Cover mates..

just a question: is it possible, that the pan warps the T-chain cover?

from what i have seen, the cover sits tight on the block....

i hope the best, and will let you know..

ah yes, i also experienced a very small leak from a weld where the scraper is mounted....
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 03:09 PM
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The canton welds. Have any of you guys sent a pan back to canton or asked them about it? Any response?
Maybe the pan can be saved by TIG welding it again?
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 05:15 PM
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i TIGed mine....fortunately i have a TIG welder...

this "right stuff" is for sure a good product, but not for me....Austria....not available....
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 05:18 PM
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I used the blue gasket too and still have leaks. TJWONG posted in an older thread that the ones he installed with the stock pan rails leaked. Without the rails they didn't.

I changed the oil last night and installed a breather on the pass. valve cover. Only 5 quarts of oil came out. & were put in a few weeks ago. Thats 2 quarts of oil spewing out onto my under body and my garage floor in that short time.

I havn't driven it yet since i tightened the bolts and changed the oil and added a breather but tonight i plan on doing some 4th and 5th gear wot tuning on the highways so I'll check underneath when I'm done.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 05:20 PM
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Mine leaks on the passenger side. the 3rd time I took off the pan i noticed on the front lip towards the passenger side there is a dip in the lip! Looks like when they roll the metal to make the lip the metal rips or is cut there and they weld it back together. ARound that area on the passenger side is ALWAYS wet. Oil then blows down the passenger side all over the header. Is yours leaking from the same place?

EDIT:
with the oil pan on the bench I placed the gasket on the pan and noticed in that area the gasket wasn't making contact. I filled in the area with RTV hoping it would seal. It didn't but the leak is less with the RTV there...

I'm going to pull the engine for other issues so I'm going to take a real close look with engine out.

rob

Last edited by Bluewasp; Aug 8, 2006 at 05:25 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 05:39 PM
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Mine seems to be leaking on the passenger side near the middle or rear of the pan. Around the starter area is wet and the bottom of the pan gets oily and drips from the rear. My trans gets wet ant the bottom of the bellhousing (i think that's what its called) is always dripping.

When sitting still overnight there's usually just a couple of drops on the garage floor, perhaps that is just from oil dripping off everything that got wet and not from the leak itself. Reason i guess that is everyime i drive at higher speeds or rpms ( guessing crankcase pressure is alot at 7900 rpm) i see oil all over the said parts and even on my back bumper. Thats why i tried putting a breather on one side and leaving the pcv on the other.

For a short time after we got the car running at startup i would see a little puff of smoke on the passenger side. Even with the hood down there would be some visible. Hood up it clearly comes from somewhere on the passenger side.

Does this sound like a cracked weld and a leak under pressure ?
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 04:08 AM
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well i had the pan dropped tonight. Finally took out the overdrive damper while we were at it and the car feels 200 lbs lighter. New gasket and used the right stuff on the block side of the gasket, then all over the pan. Drove home and looked under and it seems like the bell housing area is still wet. I'll jack the car up again tommorow morning and re-check everything.


I'm starting to wonder if I have cracked welds too since it is only leaking under high rpm or when I drive it hard. My entire underbody is wet with oil including my exhaust. it's driving me nuts

On the bright side At least my accessories aren't spinning 9k rpms anymore !

*forgot to mention I left the pan rails off on both sides.

Last edited by DieL; Oct 5, 2006 at 04:11 AM.
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 02:58 PM
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Well you may have answered my problem as well. I put the Canton RR pan on the LT4 when I installed it in my 90 C4. The shop that did the work, 4 years ago, is very good and could not find the source of the leak which showed up almost immediatley. I have cleaned everything many, many times. The oil seems to come from under the front lip of the pan where the weld is. The oil does not come from above the pan. I would never have suspected the weld. I will keep cleaning for now. Does anynone know if a breather will help the situation?
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