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Is there anyone with a 396 small block or had one ?? IF so what was the pro's and con's of building one and could I convert my 383 to a 396 without major issues?
Is there anyone with a 396 small block or had one ?? IF so what was the pro's and con's of building one and could I convert my 383 to a 396 without major issues?
I am building one for Beppe(conv 90). Big bucks. No cheap way to do it. 383 allows for many options. All of the 396 stuff I have priced are high quality stuff only. The rotating assembly alone for Beppe's is $2,200. This does not include flywheel or balancer. $2,200 does not include the $50 per slug of Mallory.
go one step larger and make a 410 small block i made one up for a customer cars recently i call it a baby 434 same rotating assy as 434 in a 350 block i thought it could be done and it can
it will kill you with torque
I am building one for Beppe(conv 90). Big bucks. No cheap way to do it. 383 allows for many options. All of the 396 stuff I have priced are high quality stuff only. The rotating assembly alone for Beppe's is $2,200. This does not include flywheel or balancer. $2,200 does not include the $50 per slug of Mallory.
Can I build a 396 from my 383? If not what do I need as for the rotating assembly. I want to step up to a 396 this winter.
go one step larger and make a 410 small block i made one up for a customer cars recently i call it a baby 434 same rotating assy as 434 in a 350 block i thought it could be done and it can
it will kill you with torque
If you are talking about the 4" stroke in a factory block, I would agree that it can be done. My street car runs around with the 4" stroke (0.030 overbore). I have also built the 4.125" stroke in a 350 block (0.030" overbore) to make 421 cid.
I was told back in '00 that the 4" stroke could not be done in a factory block, and I set out to prove this wrong. Nearly 6 years later it is still running strong. The secret to large strokes in factory blocks is a quality crank and "high end" rods.
Can I build a 396 from my 383? If not what do I need as for the rotating assembly. I want to step up to a 396 this winter.
If your 383 has 5.85 or 6 inch rods, you can use them. Pistons, crank must be changed. It is less likely that you can use your cam. Most 396 combo's require a smaller base circle on the cam. On Beppe's, we are going to use a billet core on a (I think) .880 base circle.
If your 383 has 5.85 or 6 inch rods, you can use them. Pistons, crank must be changed. It is less likely that you can use your cam. Most 396 combo's require a smaller base circle on the cam. On Beppe's, we are going to use a billet core on a (I think) .880 base circle.
Thanks Pete K If you don't mind, If I need more experienced advice on part selection could I send you a P.M.
i used hard block to just below the freeze plugs but you could get by with half of that even
in my recomendation any time you start grinding on a production block weather its a 350 or 400 you should block fill it to some extent because you have no idea how much metal is left in the water jacket area when you do this it could be paper thin and corode right through within a year so it would be wise to put some block filler in before you start this kind of project
CORKVETTE1 & AKS Racing...either of you use block filler?
Both of the engines I detailed previously used a "short fill", which in layman's terms is ~1/3 deck fill. I have not had an issue with cylinders moving causing blown head gasket, but I am using the 3/4" N2O deck AFR heads.
Aaron