upgrades done=report
just installed the r-d camber brace and hadmy front wheels rebalanced with the hunter roadforce balancer i have seen suggested so many times.WOW.the steering is alot tighter and turn in is quicker.the death shake i have been experiencing at 60-65 mph is still there but barely noticeable.a HUGE improvement.maybe now i can drive with the top out!
i also upgraded to the earl's hyperfirm stainless brake hoses.the pedal is firmer and the brakes seem to respond a little better.i am comparing them to 97k originals though.
i installed the enlarged MAF housing that mid america sells.i had already de screened the maf.installed the stock sensor in the MAM housing.low rpm and part throttle response is much quicker!i know seat of the pants testing can lie but better throttle response is easy to tell.i expected the least amount of gain(if any) from this part.a pleasant surprise!
the MAF was purchased from member evolution and the camber brace from member knsrsr5r(probably goofed that one,sorry erik).both purchases were clean and trouble free.good guys!
as for the brake lines, I suspect, to be honest, that fresh fluid had as much to do with the pedal improvement as did the lines... but they won't hurt... I have some Goodridge SS lines on mine, they are quite nice.





it doesent do it all the time,only around 60-65 mph.it is smooth everywhere else.
could it be in the steering rack?





I read more into what cheetah's saying re the balancing and how it's done as well as that it's done at all. The only problem there is that it sounds like 96 does not have an extra set of wheels/tires that don't shake.
And btw, I've not seen before that all wheels and tires have to be the same size to make max use of the road force balancing---cheetah, can you explain why that is? Thanks.
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i have a set of sawblades and michelin pilot sports(un tested)i could put on there.it isn't bad enough to swap out(i'm lazy and it did improve from before).
i havent decided on defeating the adjustable suspension.i have a frien at the dealer who has quoted me a good price($200 off)but $800 is still alot of coin for shocks.
The gentleman with the vibration stated it took a few grams. What I mean to say is that the road force is measured in pounds. There is an impercievable spot in your tire that is the heavy spot. The spot is measured in pounds. This information should be on your printout.
Last edited by A95Y; Aug 18, 2006 at 12:46 AM.
So what do you do with different sized wheels front to rear and wheels that are designed to be mounted in a specific orientation?
I've got sawblades all around - so there is a particular orientation left to right. Since I also have 8.5" wheels on the front, and 9.5" wheels on the rear, then I also have specific wheel/tire locations.
If the machine says swap left to right, then doesn't that mean that you have to dismount each wheel and tire, remount, and then perform the balance all over again? How would you ever get done - it just seems to me like every iteration could make everything worse (or better - but it sure looks like a random condition).
I guess I can skip road force balancing on my next balancing operation - if you have to move things around, you'd best have symmetric wheels and non directional tires!
I'm not disputing what you've posted, but it sounds like more trouble than it's worth. What am I missing, guys?
Steven
Last edited by OldCorvetteFan; Aug 18, 2006 at 07:38 PM.
I'm not disputing what you've posted, but it sounds like more trouble than it's worth. What am I missing, guys?
Steven





So what do you do with different sized wheels front to rear and wheels that are designed to be mounted in a specific orientation?
I've got sawblades all around - so there is a particular orientation left to right. Since I also have 8.5" wheels on the front, and 9.5" wheels on the rear, then I also have specific wheel/tire locations.
If the machine says swap left to right, then doesn't that mean that you have to dismount each wheel and tire, remount, and then perform the balance all over again? How would you ever get done - it just seems to me like every iteration could make everything worse (or better - but it sure looks like a random condition).
I guess I can skip road force balancing on my next balancing operation - if you have to move things around, you'd best have symmetric wheels and non directional tires!
I'm not disputing what you've posted, but it sounds like more trouble than it's worth. What am I missing, guys?
Steven
Steven, I think I understand what Cheetah's saying. To maximize the use of the road force balancer, it might be best to have 4 wheels all the same size AND 4 non-directional tires (asymetric may or may not have any effect). That way, the tires can be mounted at any corner without dismounting tire from wheel, should it be necessary to move them.
As it stands on our cars (and many cars), the road force balancer is the best you can do and better than a mere balance job. I'd still do it in the future, and have in the past.
And btw, I, too, didn't receive a printout on the balancing the last time I had it done. Next time.
Thanks for the explanation, Cheeteah!
Back to the problem at hand, it is probably a big expense to get that other set of tires and wheels balanced and mounted, 96-lt4. And $800 is a lot for shocks! For that, you could get premo Konis and still have lots left over.
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/features/how.cfm
I should qualify my explanation on the GSP9700 to say "high" spot, not "heavy" spot. The Hunter explanation is better than mine. It's still a good machine even if you can't move the tires around. Many guys are too lazy to use the road force system because if there are problems with the tires, it takes more time to move things around to get them optimized. It can still do a conventional balance job. If you don't do it yourself, the only way to know is by the printout. Hope this helps.
Last edited by A95Y; Aug 19, 2006 at 12:17 PM.
Just thought I would mention I also have experienced the mistery shake at highway speeds , was ready to buy tires and big balancing when I replaced the front shocks.
Just on a long shot , I thought , come on 17K and the shocks are bad?
Well , guess what they were!
Just think about the explanation of what a shock does?
1.Hold the car up ...WRONG
2.Keeps tires from wearing...WRONG
3.Dampen wheel oscillation...CORRECT
Small and Large harmonics are always happenning on any moving parts , especially front end parts , good quality shocks help squelch all those little pulses out, if your having front end problems and you are sure all the parts are GOOD , try replacing the Shocks , just because they are not leaking oil does not mean they are ok.
Desert
















